I'm looking for something cheap to do to my Galant. Preferably around $100 dollars. It is completely stock right now.
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Barnes
Well-known member
Is all your regular maintenance up to date?
Matt W
Well-known member
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
K & n airfilter
Fresh ngk plugs
Fuel filter
Oil and filter change
That's about a saw buck
While you're out there wrenching...
Check your t-belt.
Check all the fluid levels in the driveline, and adjust as required.
Bleed the brakes and clutch systems.
Be sure to check the rubber brake hoses at each end and along their length (they connect the hardlines to the calipers), especially at the rear of the car.
Check the wiring at the t-stat housing
Do a boost leak check
Addressing all of these maintainance items will make for a more solid base to work from, and hopefully keep the nasty suprises to a minimum.
Fresh ngk plugs
Fuel filter
Oil and filter change
That's about a saw buck
While you're out there wrenching...
Check your t-belt.
Check all the fluid levels in the driveline, and adjust as required.
Bleed the brakes and clutch systems.
Be sure to check the rubber brake hoses at each end and along their length (they connect the hardlines to the calipers), especially at the rear of the car.
Check the wiring at the t-stat housing
Do a boost leak check
Addressing all of these maintainance items will make for a more solid base to work from, and hopefully keep the nasty suprises to a minimum.
Last edited:
Andy_S
Well-known member
Mod the BCS, check base timing, port some stuff, fuel pump rewire. That will probably cost you less than $20 and and some time, and coupled with the suggestions above will have a really nice running car.
Also grab a logger cable.
Also grab a logger cable.
Rausch
Well-known member
Quote:
Cheap mods
Steve.
Wait, nvm, he's an Admin.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Cheap mods
Steve.
Wait, nvm, he's an Admin.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
solidviper89
Well-known member
Vfaq will be your savior! good info on that site.
Maintenance is the key to having a good car.
Maintenance is the key to having a good car.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Ok, so I was going to post what is written below, but now that I think about it, I may have things backwards. Correct me if I'm wrong.
You can also plug the UIC vacuum line that controls the wastegate actuator. In stock mode, the WG gets vacuum signal from both before and after the IC, and is therefore activated by the average vacuum or pressure across the intercooler.
After thinking about it, when my BCS is closed, the WG actuator is getting signal from the higher pressure side of the intake, meaning it allows less boost. If I wanted to increase boost, then I should have blocked off the compressor housing line. The intercooler causes a pressure drop, so having a lower pressure signal will take load off the WG actuator diaphragm and increase the amount of boost it lets through.
Am I on the right track?
You can also plug the UIC vacuum line that controls the wastegate actuator. In stock mode, the WG gets vacuum signal from both before and after the IC, and is therefore activated by the average vacuum or pressure across the intercooler.
After thinking about it, when my BCS is closed, the WG actuator is getting signal from the higher pressure side of the intake, meaning it allows less boost. If I wanted to increase boost, then I should have blocked off the compressor housing line. The intercooler causes a pressure drop, so having a lower pressure signal will take load off the WG actuator diaphragm and increase the amount of boost it lets through.
Am I on the right track?
Andy_S
Well-known member
I fail
Last edited:
Filter, paper out of the MAF or just upgrade to 2G or 3G/Evo MAF, restrictor out of the boost solenoid
Last edited by a moderator:
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Quoting Andy_S:
When the bcs is closed, the wga doesn't get any pressure. Its only a 2-port solenoid. It works on PWM to restrict the boost that reaches the WGA to allow for more boost. As far as I know, there isn't any "averaging" of the pressure differential over the intercooler. That concept does make sense though, so that should be considered when deciding where to tap your boost source.
How does the ECU know how to regulate the solenoid? Where does it get signal from? Is there a way to grab that signal before it gets to the ECU and rig up a homemade electric boost controller?
When the bcs is closed, the wga doesn't get any pressure. Its only a 2-port solenoid. It works on PWM to restrict the boost that reaches the WGA to allow for more boost. As far as I know, there isn't any "averaging" of the pressure differential over the intercooler. That concept does make sense though, so that should be considered when deciding where to tap your boost source.
How does the ECU know how to regulate the solenoid? Where does it get signal from? Is there a way to grab that signal before it gets to the ECU and rig up a homemade electric boost controller?
Andy_S
Well-known member
I fail more
Last edited:
belize1334
Well-known member
I think that a 3G/Evo Maf w/ filter and DSMChip is a GREAT first mod. You'll get smoother/better power response and make alot better use of you factory 10psi w/o straining your fuel system. It also allows you to make use of your factory boost gauge as a knock gauge which is a handy idiot light to have in your pocket.
There are also TONS of "free" mods that you can do. Simplify your vacuum lines. Remove your bcs restrictor ring (raises boost from 11psi to about 13psi). Rewire your fuel pump (not performance so much as safety margin). etc...
There are also TONS of "free" mods that you can do. Simplify your vacuum lines. Remove your bcs restrictor ring (raises boost from 11psi to about 13psi). Rewire your fuel pump (not performance so much as safety margin). etc...
Last edited:
Quoting Rausch:
Quote:
Cheap mods
Steve.
Wait, nvm, he's an Admin.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Rausch is cheap and dirty and coming to Chicago to do a Show. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
Quote:
Cheap mods
Steve.
Wait, nvm, he's an Admin.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Rausch is cheap and dirty and coming to Chicago to do a Show. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
I thought our cars had a factory boost level of 8psi? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
As for cheap little upgrades, a 2g TB elbow is cheap.+1 to the bcs restrictor.
As for cheap little upgrades, a 2g TB elbow is cheap.+1 to the bcs restrictor.
Last edited by a moderator:
Hertz
Staff member
Quoting Andy_S:
As far as I know, there isn't any "averaging" of the pressure differential over the intercooler. That concept does make sense though, so that should be considered when deciding where to tap your boost source.
There is because of the stock vacuum configuration.
As far as I know, there isn't any "averaging" of the pressure differential over the intercooler. That concept does make sense though, so that should be considered when deciding where to tap your boost source.
There is because of the stock vacuum configuration.
The above descriptions of how the factory BCS works are wrong. The BCS acts as a bleeder, allowing some of the boost pressure going to the wastegate to get bleed off, back into the air can. This means that the turbo has to make 4-6 psi more boost before the wastegate opens. Removing the restrictor inside the BCS port allows even more boost to bleed off, so you get an extra 1-2 psi before the wastegate opens. Plugging the boost port off the turbo compressor, and removing the tee, will also raise the boost slightly, because you aren't averaging the 2 together anymore.
When the ECU hears excessive knock, or has lowered the "octane value" address below a certain threshold, the BCS is closed, to lower the boost to the 7psi stock wastegate pressure.
When the ECU hears excessive knock, or has lowered the "octane value" address below a certain threshold, the BCS is closed, to lower the boost to the 7psi stock wastegate pressure.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Thanks for clearing that up Jeff. But what kind of signal does the BCS get? Is it controlled by PWM?
Yes, as part of the knock control I believe it does do PW modulation of the solenoid. There's a small section of code in the disassembly around DE93 that updates the duty cycle based on the octane value, MAS Hz, etc.
