BSE A look at stubby shafts

[BogusSVO]

In the past week I have torn apart some front cases. I would have thought by now even the newest DSM'er would have found the info on what stubby shaft to run.

I know this is not a new topic to cover by any means. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

STAY AWAY from the ungrooved stubby shaft!!!!



This one had to be beat out with a hammer.OMG



The damage caused to the oil pump housing. :sosad:





So make sure the BSE Kit you buy has the OE Mitsubishi stubby shaft. Unless you just want to spend the cash on a new front case/oil pump.

 

[EMX5636]

Good info. I thought I had seen the last of the ungrooved ones a while back. I guess some of the cheapies are still floating around.

 

[transparentdsm]

thats so silly, there so cheap to begin with and people still buy shittier versions.

 

[donniekak]

^^^^^^^^^
This is what I don't understand. I get them at the local Hyundai dealer for under $20. How much cheaper do you want stuff?

 

[BogusSVO]

I would say most are still from the ebay kits. There are still new guys starting to play with the 4g63 and they just do not know. What I found shocking is one of these front cases came from a failed engine that was built by a fairly well know shop. There is a build thread even on the GR4 that this engine came from.

 

[mitsuturbo]

I once tried one of the BSE kits with a solid "stubby" shaft.

It resulted in catastrophic engine damage within under 5 miles of driving. The oil pump first flushed a bunch of aluminum straight into my mains, and even up to the cams. NEVER AGAIN.

For years i've simply cut the balance shaft off just past the oil pump, ground it off perfectly square, and welded the hole shut. Not a single issue from one of them, ever. While the 1.6L stub shaft is a better option, sometimes it's just faster and simpler to work with what you have. Of course, if you do this it's a bit more difficult to get the bolt tight that holds the gear to the shaft, but it's not a big deal.