AN fitting size at fuel sending unit?

[socalgvr4]

I have a braided line setup on my 1G, and it sprung a leak, hoping someone can help me track down what size it should be.

I was able to disconnect the blue fitting that attaches to the sending unit - from the threaded red fitting that is actually on the braided line -- as that is the part that appears to have a hairline crack in it.

Is the whole part with the blue/red piece this - 799-1002? and when I try to look for it I cant find it or track it down online.

Someone know what the part number should be?

Its the piece AN fitting in the pic below

Also what are you doing to make sure the new fitting is attached to the braided line properly?

 

[BluFalcon]

Looks like -6 line and fittings. That's the size I used on my old Talon, and what I plan on upgrading the GVR-4 to in the near future.

AN fittings are generally pretty "GI Proof". I hate working with the SS line, as the braid tends to fray if you don't make a clean cut. Generally the base of the fitting goes over the hose, until it bottoms out on a flat that's on the inner diameter of the base. The nipple of the fitting goes into the ID of the hose, and screws into the threads on the base. As the fitting is screwed onto the base, the tapered end of the nipple goes further into the hose, it pushes against the ID of the hose, causing it to expand against the base fitting. Forms a very tight seal. Some guys I know will mark the bottom of the base fitting on the hose to ensure that it doesn't shift while threading the fitting onto the base piece.

AN Fitting Install-Tuners

I've started using Russell Pro Classic hose, as it's a lot easier to work with than the SS braid hose. The only things I'd be worried about with this hose are high temps, and abrasion resistance.

 

[turbowop]

Did somebody hook up an AN fitting directly to the stock flared output of the pump assembly? Those aren't really compatible.

 

[BluFalcon]

What Wop said. There should be a adaptor with a female pipe thread on one end, and a male AN fitting on the other. The fitting coming off the top of your pump assembly has a pipe thread. It's not designed to connect to a AN fitting, no matter how much teflon tape you use.

 

[socalgvr4]

Okay..this may be the issue as it actually put a small crack on the inside of the an fitting.

Where can I get the adapter piece your talking about?


I pulled that picture straight from here - click and it looks like the stock pipe threaded fitting..and might just be plain wrong..


If it is NOT correct..what does the proper setup look like or should be? (or replaced at the fuel ending unit male end?) Does it need to be replaced with something else?

 

[socalgvr4]

Okay it might suck a little to do this, but its much cleaner -

from this article : click

 

[broxma]

The real proper way?

Like this.

I am sure however there is an adapter to go from the stock threaded fitting to a -6. When you find that, the next thing to spring a leak will be the crappy braise job at the 90 degree pipe end where it goes into the top of the housing, and you'll end up doing what I did anyway.

/brox

 

[socalgvr4]

broxma++

Thank you..perfect!-- Just ordered all the fittings, and will do the setup exactly like you have it.

Now to pull the godamn old fitting off the line or try and screw just the blue piece back on to the an fitting that was there before...good times.

 

[BluFalcon]

Actually I just re-read the VFAQ for the fuel system upgrade. It looks like they did have you connect the fitting off the hard line from the fuel pump assembly directly into the female AN fitting. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif Yeesh. Guess I'll be doing it the "proper" way when I get around to doing this on my Galant.

 

[brisvr4]

Why not just buy the correct adapter that Garfield had made?
I've got it on mine and it works fine and has the correct flare as well.
Not the cheapest item but I'm pretty sure he didn't have thousands made!
Fuel sender adaptor.

 

[broxma]

The long answer as to why I didn't was the actual metal pipe which goes through the top of the housing has sprung a leak. While it's clean as polished silver on the inside of the tank, the top, the 90 degree bend part, is rusted like Brad Pitt in Oceans Eleven. Hanging the heavier -6 an line which doesn't have the standard mounts the factory hardline does, would have, in my estimation, on a 19 year old car, eventually break that hardline, although mine was already broken. Mine had sprung a leak before I even tore into it, right at the seam of the bend and the top of the housing. The fittings to replace the entire thing are not incredibly expensive, so I figure, why stop at the one place I'm going to have to go back to if it does go, or, just replace the entire bend and be done with it.

Short answer. Cost benefit analysis.

/brox

 

[brisvr4]

Sorry mate, wasn't referring to your setup. I was replying to the original poster. In his situation it seems that the fitting is the easiest and most cost effective way to go.

 

[GreenGSX]

I've had the "Stevetek" style 6-AN fuel line upgrade on both my track Eclipse and the One Lap VR4. I have over 60K miles of abuse on the fuel line upgrade on the Eclipse and almost 30K on the one in the VR4. Both of which do NOT use an adapter or bulkhead fitting. Just the 6-AN right into the stock fitting. In my experience it seals up fine and I haven't had any issues with the hard 90 coming out of the cover.

I did crack one of the ends on the Eclipse but it was totally my fault. When I replaced the fuel pump and undid that fitting I wasn't careful and I loosened both the nut and the joint itself (the part that screws into the red cap that goes over the braided hose). When I put it back together it leaked from the loose fitting not the connection to the factory fitting. I didn't recognize this at first so I over tightened and cracked the nut on the end. If I had just tightened the joint I would never had a problem.

 

[broxma]

Quoting brisvr4:
Sorry mate, wasn't referring to your setup. I was replying to the original poster. In his situation it seems that the fitting is the easiest and most cost effective way to go.



Absolutely no offense taken. Although in reality, the bulkhead fitting setup I used to make my full replacement part, was probably right around the cost of the single fitting.

/brox

 

[Romanova]

Quoting socalgvr4:
Okay it might suck a little to do this, but its much cleaner -

from this article : click



I just did this with mine... piece of cake.

 

[jepherz]

Quoting BluFalcon:
What Wop said. There should be a adaptor with a female pipe thread on one end, and a male AN fitting on the other. The fitting coming off the top of your pump assembly has a pipe thread. It's not designed to connect to a AN fitting, no matter how much teflon tape you use.



Actually this isn't a pipe threading either, it's a compression fitting just like a brake line.

 

[iceman69510]

It's a 14 x 1.5 mm flare fitting. We have had this argument on here before. The 6 AN female to stock line (despite anecdotal evidence to the contrary) is not the correct and safe way to do this.

 

[BluFalcon]

Yeah, you're right. Got confused. Sorry for the bad info.
Quoting jepherz:
Quoting BluFalcon:
What Wop said. There should be a adaptor with a female pipe thread on one end, and a male AN fitting on the other. The fitting coming off the top of your pump assembly has a pipe thread. It's not designed to connect to a AN fitting, no matter how much teflon tape you use.



Actually this isn't a pipe threading either, it's a compression fitting just like a brake line.