GSX_TC
Well-known member
Pretty good launches Joey!
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#740/1000 BUILD
- Thread starterFiascoxl
- Start date
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Thanks, not too shabby I suppose. My teeny weeny ETS street fmic is on the ragged edge currently with my conservative tune and 56lb a min. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif Just picked up a Kinetic short route core, this should be all the cooling the car needs and hopefully before the end of the season I will have a 6 second eighth mile slip. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
A little update...
The car lost compression on cylinder #2 a few weeks ago while driving in our first snow in the area. Needless to say I was in it when the car lost the cylinder and started running like crap. The car felt like I lost either spark or fuel to it so I started trouble shooting those things. Everything checked out ok so I did a comp check and got 155,150,0,150. Now here is the crazy thing, I drove the car to move it from my place to my gf's and the miss cleared up slowly but surely.
I pulled the VC and checked the head studs torque and found two around #2 cylinder that were comparably looser than the others. I then torqued all of them back down and the car is running back to normal with only one hiccup. The blown gasket seems to have let go at the rear of cylinder #2 near the coolant passage and hasn't mix coolant with oil or vice versa, but it does steam a little bit at anything over 30psi after I let off. The car is on gate pressure now and I am still driving it with it being completely back to normal, it never overheated also. I guess we shall see next week when I tear it apart. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
So I already have my L19's here, (by the way it almost sickens me at how much those sob's were) and a another cometic gasket coming in as well. Anyone agree that I may have stretched the standard ARP's at the 35 lbs I was running? I surely hope I don't have to have any machine work done but at the most the head will probably need shaved once again? I have decided to degree in the cams and not just set them straight up this time and ordered a ton of crap to do this with as well.
The car lost compression on cylinder #2 a few weeks ago while driving in our first snow in the area. Needless to say I was in it when the car lost the cylinder and started running like crap. The car felt like I lost either spark or fuel to it so I started trouble shooting those things. Everything checked out ok so I did a comp check and got 155,150,0,150. Now here is the crazy thing, I drove the car to move it from my place to my gf's and the miss cleared up slowly but surely.
I pulled the VC and checked the head studs torque and found two around #2 cylinder that were comparably looser than the others. I then torqued all of them back down and the car is running back to normal with only one hiccup. The blown gasket seems to have let go at the rear of cylinder #2 near the coolant passage and hasn't mix coolant with oil or vice versa, but it does steam a little bit at anything over 30psi after I let off. The car is on gate pressure now and I am still driving it with it being completely back to normal, it never overheated also. I guess we shall see next week when I tear it apart. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
So I already have my L19's here, (by the way it almost sickens me at how much those sob's were) and a another cometic gasket coming in as well. Anyone agree that I may have stretched the standard ARP's at the 35 lbs I was running? I surely hope I don't have to have any machine work done but at the most the head will probably need shaved once again? I have decided to degree in the cams and not just set them straight up this time and ordered a ton of crap to do this with as well.
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Well got the car tore down and fixed in two days which was filled with impressive non stop action to say least. I doesn't hurt that my x mas vacation started on the 17th and doesn't end till the 2nd either, so I was pretty much procrastinating the past week up till this Tuesday. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif When I pulled the head off I could see signs of fastener fatigue on a few of my standard ARP's (torqued twice) which led to me losing the hg prematurely I do believe. After tearing the head down I went ahead and had it milled once again, it only needed .003 off and was straight as an arrow. All sixteen valves were still in great shape with no signs of detonation so I went ahead and cleaned them up and hand lapped them back in. I decided to go ahead and run another Cometic MLS this time but with ARP L19's to keep the head down on the block where it belongs hopefully!
Battle scar, I pride myself on being a very nimble/agile person but to say the least make sure the walking path is brightly lit and unobstructed. :lol: On a good note the heavy cylinder head I was carrying through the garage landed on me and not the concrete floor, I'll take that any day of the week over buying a new one.
While the head was at the machine shop I decided to do something about my haggard gatorade catch can/bottle. So I went ahead and installed my modified ebay special catch cans that I converted into fully functional sealed cans. I tapped the inside of each can port (pipe thread is tapered) to accept a copper pipe fitting and slit tube on one side and not pictured a sintered brass filter on the outlet. This along with stainless steel scoring pad for extra media filtering. Sparing the details it turned out quite nice, extremely cheap and extremely functional. Just the way I like it.
In this pic I hadn't vacuum capped the tb ports yet and the pcv was still functional which is now looped to the other stock vc port.
Lastly I picked up a set of Starquest headrests to replace the fugly bread loafs. They really alter the appearance of the seats and make them look some what sporty.
Battle scar, I pride myself on being a very nimble/agile person but to say the least make sure the walking path is brightly lit and unobstructed. :lol: On a good note the heavy cylinder head I was carrying through the garage landed on me and not the concrete floor, I'll take that any day of the week over buying a new one.
While the head was at the machine shop I decided to do something about my haggard gatorade catch can/bottle. So I went ahead and installed my modified ebay special catch cans that I converted into fully functional sealed cans. I tapped the inside of each can port (pipe thread is tapered) to accept a copper pipe fitting and slit tube on one side and not pictured a sintered brass filter on the outlet. This along with stainless steel scoring pad for extra media filtering. Sparing the details it turned out quite nice, extremely cheap and extremely functional. Just the way I like it.
In this pic I hadn't vacuum capped the tb ports yet and the pcv was still functional which is now looped to the other stock vc port.
Lastly I picked up a set of Starquest headrests to replace the fugly bread loafs. They really alter the appearance of the seats and make them look some what sporty.
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Couple updates, switched out the -6an feed for a full -8an feed and switched the return as well to -6an. Both lines start as bulk heads at the sending unit forward, I also added a Magnus fuel rail to free up some more flow. I noticed the tapped rail I had been using has the an fitting on the drivers side protruding over the #4 injector, not good. While I had the sending unit out I went ahead and drilled down to the relief valve and ran a screw in it, my idc's have been strangely high and I believe the 450 walbros low relief valve pressure may have been the culprit. I will be able to confirm this in the next few days when I get my fuel pressure sensor wired in. I also spiffed up the interior a bit with a Nardi wheel and personal hub and horn button. I threw in a sweet weighted shift knob too, it made the slightly notchy short throw smooth once again. I never mentioned that I switched the tiny ets street core out with a old school Kinetic Race core.
Needs a lip. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gifops:
and some fun in the snow we had a week ago.
and a launch video I forgot about.
click
Needs a lip. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gifops:
and some fun in the snow we had a week ago.
and a launch video I forgot about.
click
JamesFoster
Well-known member
Hell to the yeah, looking good dude. That's a big fuckin intercooler.
prove_it
Well-known member
Loving that launch video btw.
You can even see the tire marks.
You can even see the tire marks.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
That Nardi wheel with the Mitsu horn button looks great.
That launch vid is nice too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
That launch vid is nice too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Thanks guys, right now I am trying to nail down a lean condition at wot. I have a fuel pressure sensor installed on the return now and need to wire it in to see what is going on.
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Installed a new fuel pump strainer and rechecked all my fittings at the pump housing today. Strainer was noticeably dirty, I think what was on it came from the old stock return. I also got the fuel pressure sensor wired in and the fuel pressure was rock solid all the way to 35 pounds but the car still went a little lean. When I did a pull I noticed the car was rolling coal like a diesel up top but the wideband read 12.5 to 13.0, I am thinking the wideband sensor isn't working under load like it should. Gonna swap it out in the next few days and confirm my suspicion.
galant344
Well-known member
arp studs are from alsip il? thats like 10 min from my house? I wonder if that is just packing for the studs..... i've never seen that when i've opened a package of arp studs?
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Well I have conquered my fueling demons and I'm pleased to report the car is running amazing! The car feels faster and more responsive at the current 25 lbs of boost with 12 degrees timing max on 93 pump than it did on 35 lbs with 93 pump, methanol and 9 degrees of timing. Hopefully I can get the methanol back inline with the tune this weekend and start turning the wick back up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Little night action
click
Little night action
click
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GSX_TC
Well-known member
Wow that night launch is insane Joey, you need to tell me how to launch like that, was that anti-lag and two step together? And what rpm and boost level did you leave at?
prove_it
Well-known member
Damn nice. That was impressive.
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Thanks, here are the settings I am using. I found a happy medium at the track with these settings, any higher and it spins too much and any lower it will bog down out the hole. These settings gave me just the right amount of traction I needed to run consistent 1.6 60ft's on cheapo tires. I will give a ton of credit to my South Bend Organic/Feramic disc and ACT 2600 pressure plate, the clutch slips just enough out the hole then quickly grabs hard.
GSX_TC
Well-known member
If I can launch like that I'll be happy. Are you running a stock transmission and T-case?
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Stock t case, TRE stage 4 with four spider diff. I have a few back up t cases but as long as shes spinning a little I shouldn't need them. If I ever decide to throw on some drag radials, I am almost positive the t case will not last through but a few of these launches.
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Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Recently developed a notchy engagement shifting into gear, I noticed my clutch master is seeping fluid very very slowly. So I went ahead and bought another OEM master and also picked up a OEM slave to go with it. I had changed the slave over the summer when it went out spontaneously and changed it on the side of the road with a parts store one I had nib for years and forgotten all about it. Hopefully this alleviates some of the shifting problem.
I also decided to do something about the piss poor brakes that are on it currently. I have decide to swap the brake master out for a bigger 1 1/16 3g unit, found some sweet adapters for the lines to go with it too. Since I was in need of rotors as well as pads I spent an little extra to buy Outlander caliper brackets to run the bigger Outalnder rotors up front. Not that they are necessary but I went with ABT slotted rotors, I have seen nothing but good reviews on them for being a low buck rotor so I decided to try them. The brake pads I chose for the front are Stoptech street performance pads and Power Stop Z26 pads for the rear. I still need to order some stainless brake lines and replace the brake fluid with Motul rbf600 before they go on.
I seen a suggestion for replacement molding on another thread and found black molding in the equivalent size.
1g dsm master, need to swap out the reservoir.
got these on the cheap
these weren't as hard to find as people were saying.
Trim-Guard is the company
quality 3m adhesive
lol 50ft, I think I might have enough.
I also decided to do something about the piss poor brakes that are on it currently. I have decide to swap the brake master out for a bigger 1 1/16 3g unit, found some sweet adapters for the lines to go with it too. Since I was in need of rotors as well as pads I spent an little extra to buy Outlander caliper brackets to run the bigger Outalnder rotors up front. Not that they are necessary but I went with ABT slotted rotors, I have seen nothing but good reviews on them for being a low buck rotor so I decided to try them. The brake pads I chose for the front are Stoptech street performance pads and Power Stop Z26 pads for the rear. I still need to order some stainless brake lines and replace the brake fluid with Motul rbf600 before they go on.
I seen a suggestion for replacement molding on another thread and found black molding in the equivalent size.
1g dsm master, need to swap out the reservoir.
got these on the cheap
these weren't as hard to find as people were saying.
Trim-Guard is the company
quality 3m adhesive
lol 50ft, I think I might have enough.
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