Barnes
Well-known member
You a Dr. now or something Curtis? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
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Short route front mount what the hell.... UPDATE w/PICS
- Thread startercurtis
- Start date
curtis
Well-known member
^suck it.. I fixed it for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
How about the next brilliant, energy saving idea you have, not putting it on the net. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
I just think with all the saving energy stuff going on, not to mention lower bills, you could proffit from such an idea.
I just think with all the saving energy stuff going on, not to mention lower bills, you could proffit from such an idea.
Barnes
Well-known member
I would be money there is no way he could market this thing. It is probably in gross violation of code.
curtis
Well-known member
Well Resurrecting from the dead. Thought maybe some newbies or some procrastinators might do work of there own.
Its 11 degrees outside and a low of 7 expected and the garage was opened up a few times today but I just looked and the shop is at 69 degrees and the shop to office door has been open all day as well as the door at the top of the stairs so alot of the heat has ran upstairs. Think If I kept everything shut I could be at the 72 to 73 range constantly. Never got my duct work redone and only thing I've done is ran a new wire on the fan. Only thing I want to modify is the water drain. All spring and fall I ran it to the pump that drains out condensation from the ac system. Well the line outside comes out of the house at about 8 ft up and turns 90 and runs over a few feet then out and has a 2 inch piece bent up about 15 degrees. This squirts about a drink bottle full of ice water on the kids while there in the pool as it cycles but in the winter the copper tube freezes up and only place water drains is into a 5 gallon bucket. I get about 7 gallons a day out of this so first thing of a morning it gets dumped and at bedtime but small price to pay to work in the shop in a tshirt /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Its 11 degrees outside and a low of 7 expected and the garage was opened up a few times today but I just looked and the shop is at 69 degrees and the shop to office door has been open all day as well as the door at the top of the stairs so alot of the heat has ran upstairs. Think If I kept everything shut I could be at the 72 to 73 range constantly. Never got my duct work redone and only thing I've done is ran a new wire on the fan. Only thing I want to modify is the water drain. All spring and fall I ran it to the pump that drains out condensation from the ac system. Well the line outside comes out of the house at about 8 ft up and turns 90 and runs over a few feet then out and has a 2 inch piece bent up about 15 degrees. This squirts about a drink bottle full of ice water on the kids while there in the pool as it cycles but in the winter the copper tube freezes up and only place water drains is into a 5 gallon bucket. I get about 7 gallons a day out of this so first thing of a morning it gets dumped and at bedtime but small price to pay to work in the shop in a tshirt /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
turboflanagan
Well-known member
I'm surprised you have not turned it into a pre-heater for the water too!
RedTwo
Well-known member
You could start selling your condensor water as 'Freedom Fluid' - naturally distilled mountain spring water from the American part of the French Alps. By the time people start going blind, you could be long gone!
curtis
Well-known member
Quoting turboflanagan:
I'm surprised you have not turned it into a pre-heater for the water too!
If I do that then my garage want be as warm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I'm surprised you have not turned it into a pre-heater for the water too!
If I do that then my garage want be as warm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
So, let me get this straight.. you plumbed your home heater systems EXHAUST (wasted hot air) through an intercooler, shrouded the front of it, and created a draw thru heater system for the garage? The fan runs once there is sufficient heat to blow out, and shuts off when it's cool?
What's the problem with the "chinaman's hat" and why exactly does it need a flapper?
What's the problem with the "chinaman's hat" and why exactly does it need a flapper?
curtis
Well-known member
The chinamans hat had no internal baffles just a open hole. So whats happening is the waste hot air is blown outside and when not on cold outside air rushes in. Some places this is no big deal but TN is high humidity all the time so what happens the double wall pipe is hot then fills with cold air which builds up condensation on the outside of the inter piece of pipe. If it was 2 ft long no big deal but it runs from the center of the basement over then turns 90 and out so I have a bunch of pipe for it to condensate on. That causes leaks everywhere and always has but now with the heat exchanger on it its way worst because the heater is creating 3 times as much condensation but with the flapper it cuts it back alot in the pipe and in the exchanger as well.
curtis
Well-known member
Saw the solar panel thread and though damn haven't updated this in forever.....Its still up on the ceiling and going strong. 2 years ago at first start up CO detectors went nuts the BS double wall thin steel pipes had corrosion everywhere and small inducer fan blades were rusty . So I reinvented. Got a fan assembly from a furnace at the scrap yard for 2 dollars on that I welded a stainless 90 leaving the furnace this then sleaves into a aluminum pipe that is welded like a t on a fire extinguisher bottle. The top of the fire bottle is aimed straight at the ground. More on that in a second. The bottom of the bottle is gone and welded to 3 inch IC pipes and goes up and is welded to the hot side of the core. on the inlet to the core I have a condensation drain that goes into a 3/8 piece of tube and is rolled into loops so the drips go up and around like a trap on a water drain under your sink. This keeps all CO inside the core. Also on the bottom of the fire bottle has a drain. This way no condensation can ever get to the fan assembly. Now the post IC side. Its sch 40 3 inch PVC pipe. Temps are just barely above ambient and PVC melts at like 350. This will never rust or leave drips at the seams etc etc. Since its single wall it builds up condensation somewhat but only about 3 gallons every few weeks but the core itself is about 5 to 7 gallons a day. So 6 years of free heat. Shop averages about 74 to 76 all winter and still the best thing I've ever built myself. Oh fan is from a jenn air downdraft cooktop range I'm going to take out the thermostat and replace this fall has some corrosion on it and going to remove the rivets on the air box and then steam clean the core from both sides since its got a film build up on it but since I built it haven't done dittly to it except redo the pipes. Anyone want to tackle this for themselves before winter give me a yell.
curtis
Well-known member
Oh one more thing.....Outlet of fan
I started then ran out of aluminum so stopped project but outlet this year will have a pipe that comes out about 3ft then the bottom of the pipe will be cut off the last 2ft. Where its cut it will have two flat pieces of aluminum welded to the cut lines and the end will be capped will look like a tear drop shape bottom all across will have about a 1 inch slit for an opening. Or whatever equals the cross sectional area of the fan discharge. Then on the sides of that it will have two sheets of aluminum attached that has a 2 inch gap or so and is parallel with the sides being a few inches longer going down and 6 or 8 inches longer on the top and open on top. What this will do is hot exit air fills tube and blows out straight down through slit. since the outer sides are longer the pressurized air from the fan will mix with air up on the ceiling drawing in down. Creates a vacuum effect the whole high pressure low pressure debate. But this will help mix the air and I'll be able to turn it left or right to direct where I want heat to blow. Not going to raise the temp any but on top I want to mount some filters as well as a filter where air is pulled to the core. I'll build both to hold a normal filter that can be found at lowes, walmart etc and also be the cheapest they sell.
I started then ran out of aluminum so stopped project but outlet this year will have a pipe that comes out about 3ft then the bottom of the pipe will be cut off the last 2ft. Where its cut it will have two flat pieces of aluminum welded to the cut lines and the end will be capped will look like a tear drop shape bottom all across will have about a 1 inch slit for an opening. Or whatever equals the cross sectional area of the fan discharge. Then on the sides of that it will have two sheets of aluminum attached that has a 2 inch gap or so and is parallel with the sides being a few inches longer going down and 6 or 8 inches longer on the top and open on top. What this will do is hot exit air fills tube and blows out straight down through slit. since the outer sides are longer the pressurized air from the fan will mix with air up on the ceiling drawing in down. Creates a vacuum effect the whole high pressure low pressure debate. But this will help mix the air and I'll be able to turn it left or right to direct where I want heat to blow. Not going to raise the temp any but on top I want to mount some filters as well as a filter where air is pulled to the core. I'll build both to hold a normal filter that can be found at lowes, walmart etc and also be the cheapest they sell.
