Blues15
Active member
I have one but haven't really run the car to see where the pressure is at since i barely got the car going and the clutch is new, ill just do a few quick runs around the block this weekend.
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My new toy
- Thread starterBlues15
- Start date
Blues15
Active member
Blues15
Active member
Blues15
Active member
relocated the battery to the back also
Blues15
Active member
Blues15
Active member
all i got for now
damn didn't think the pics would come out that big /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
MellowVR4
Well-known member
Quoting thomcasey:
560's are best for this setup as the injector deadtime is the same for the 450's and 560's. But, I ran 21-23psi for 1 1/2 years in my old Talon this way until I got link. I kept an eye on my AFR with a wideband, plus had an AFPR and Wally 255, but this setup was pain free and worked great.
What were your A/F numbers like? At idle and at wot?
560's are best for this setup as the injector deadtime is the same for the 450's and 560's. But, I ran 21-23psi for 1 1/2 years in my old Talon this way until I got link. I kept an eye on my AFR with a wideband, plus had an AFPR and Wally 255, but this setup was pain free and worked great.
What were your A/F numbers like? At idle and at wot?
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Questions/Comments:
Are you using antifreeze/coolant in the cooling system? I see rust coming out of your aluminum rad cap area.
Can you purchase a battery box (plastic or other)? Fumes and acid can spill into the car using an open/wet battery in your trunk area, so it is a must for everyones health and safety.
Is the CTS first on your list of repairs? I'm surprised the car would run with no proper connector/pigtail at the coolant temp sensor on your thermostat housing.
Definitely get all those exposed butt connectors out of the system, and replace with a proper connection/solder and heat shrink or heat shrink butt connectors.
Is there a gasket in the UICP (inlet pipe fitting to the turbo) where it bolts to the turbo? Red goop as a helper for pits can be OK, but if there is no gasket ....
Just trying to help you out here, no judgement.
I've had to do everyone of the repairs suggested above.
Are you using antifreeze/coolant in the cooling system? I see rust coming out of your aluminum rad cap area.
Can you purchase a battery box (plastic or other)? Fumes and acid can spill into the car using an open/wet battery in your trunk area, so it is a must for everyones health and safety.
Is the CTS first on your list of repairs? I'm surprised the car would run with no proper connector/pigtail at the coolant temp sensor on your thermostat housing.
Definitely get all those exposed butt connectors out of the system, and replace with a proper connection/solder and heat shrink or heat shrink butt connectors.
Is there a gasket in the UICP (inlet pipe fitting to the turbo) where it bolts to the turbo? Red goop as a helper for pits can be OK, but if there is no gasket ....
Just trying to help you out here, no judgement.
I've had to do everyone of the repairs suggested above.
thomcasey
Well-known member
Quoting MellowVR4:
What were your A/F numbers like? At idle and at wot?
Idle bounced between 14.3 and 14.9. WOT was 10.5 @ 23psi. It never rolled coal, some black smoke, but not much.
What were your A/F numbers like? At idle and at wot?
Idle bounced between 14.3 and 14.9. WOT was 10.5 @ 23psi. It never rolled coal, some black smoke, but not much.
MellowVR4
Well-known member
Not too bad actually. Thanks for sharing
Yohler
Well-known member
Quoting thomcasey:
Quoting MellowVR4:
What were your A/F numbers like? At idle and at wot?
Idle bounced between 14.3 and 14.9. WOT was 10.5 @ 23psi. It never rolled coal, some black smoke, but not much.
Good to know, thanks.
Quoting MellowVR4:
What were your A/F numbers like? At idle and at wot?
Idle bounced between 14.3 and 14.9. WOT was 10.5 @ 23psi. It never rolled coal, some black smoke, but not much.
Good to know, thanks.
Blues15
Active member
I'm running just straight water for now, I've been flushing the engine and radiator pretty much after every drive and its clearing up. Also gonna do another oil change cause I still have very little leftover milky oil from the previous leaking head gasket. Engine probably has a good amount of rust since it hasn't ran in probably 2 years. On the battery I plan on running a sealed battery or find an aluminum box, I just had that battery laying around to start the car for now. The wiring i'm repairing but its hard to find replacement connectors for these old cars. And I thought that white sensor was for the coolant fans? The j pipe has a gasket but the j pipe was pitted and wasn't sealing right with just the gasket so I got some RTV so help seal it off until I can get a new j pipe. The car had a high idle (1200rpm) and after checking all the vacuum hoses and piping ended up being a pigtail I forgot to plug in on the ISC, car idles fine now but still shuts off when I let off the throttle after I get on it, im sure its just cause it needs a tune. I drove it last night and wow that thing is a rocket until I blew a coupler off a block from the house.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
coolant temp sensor could be going out.
Blues15
Active member
Blues15
Active member
Ordered a new ECM coolant temp sensor and the sensor for the dash cause my temp gauge is not working just have a cheap mechanical one for now. Also have a gvr4 thermostat housing to be installed but waiting for the gasket to come in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Oil light was on also and I installed a new sensor and its all good now, but I still want to put an actual gauge just cause I don't trust the light.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
i actually have the dummy light eliminated in my VR4 and i use an autometer electric oil pressure gauge. easier then the light and the spot for the light sensor is where i put in the autometer.
Blues15
Active member
I thought about using a brass street tee to use both sensors but not sure if ill get a good reading. guess ill just try it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Should work, but a caution about brass. It tends to fatigue from the vibration if you have any weight hanging off it. Don't want to lose all your oil. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
Spyke169
Well-known member
I better way to do this would be to run a line off of that tee to the sensor that is mounted somewhere. This will not only eliminate the weight from the brass tee, but also shield the sensor from vibrations. I have heard of autometer sensors having a short life in some cases where they are subjected to a lot of engine vibration.
