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1990 Oil Filter Housing Question?


atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 255840 posted 09/10/05 10:00 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I need to take my leaky, crappy stock set up off and I have a question that was unanswered by the "How-To" on this. Here is a quote from the "How-To":

Quote:

The required fittings for the oil filter adapter are as follows, 2 each of -8AN flare to 16mm x 1.5 metric adapters (i'm almost positive its 16 not 18, someone chime in here).




Is anyone SURE on what size they are and maybe even have the part number for them? I want to use the stock 1990 cooler since I already have one and I'm guessing I can just get four of those adapters and run them on both ends. Can someone who's done this (even with an aftermarket cooler) give me some info?

Thanks.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 255886 posted 09/10/05 01:25 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here are the fittings from Mach V for the oil cooler end. I think this is what you mean...
http://www.machv.com/exoilcoolfil.html

Anybody know how possible it is to adapt some hose to a banjo fitting? If so, you could just use the factory bolts and just adapt them to your own lines. This may cause leaking though, if it's even possible.



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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 255911 posted 09/10/05 02:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You can adapt the stock banjo fittings if you have a hydraulic hose place near you. I may just go that route since I know of 2 people locally that have the hoses sitting around that I can pirate the hose ends from. If anyone has any ideas on the sizes please let me know. I've found these from Earl's but they don't have an O-ring or washer to seal it so seepage may be a problem:

9919EFKERL #8AN to 18MM x 1.5
9919EFJERL #8AN to 16MM x 1.5
9919DFJERL #6AN to 16MM x 1.5

If it's 16mm I'll go with #6 since I think #8 will do nothing except cost more money. There is a local "circle track" warehouse that has three aisles of Earl's so I'll try to get there and test fit to my cooler/housing. I'll post the results later this week.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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keoni176
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256149 posted 09/11/05 08:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
They are 16MM x 1.5. I was only able to find them through Russel (Summit part# RUS-670530) and Earls. I used #6AN on mine with a Setrab oil cooler and it works great. I would have used #8AN but I had a plethora of #6AN fittings laying around.

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keoni176
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256152 posted 09/11/05 08:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Also, the metric adapters that I have do not have an o-ring or washer on the oil filter housing and I have not experienced any sort of oil leak what-so-ever. Hope this helps.

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256164 posted 09/11/05 10:05 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
AWESOME! That was exactly the info I needed. I'll be getting that stuff this week .

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256225 posted 09/11/05 02:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
John,
You should get pics and put a list of stuff you needed to put it all on for us!



-Jeff
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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256491 posted 09/12/05 10:34 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Use one of the stock rubber insert washers between the adapter fitting and the housing. that is what I will be using. The stock banjo fittings use two, one on each side.
I used the 9919EFJ which is the -8. Two for the housing, two for the stock cooler.



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logick
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256707 posted 09/12/05 06:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

John,
You should get pics and put a list of stuff you needed to put it all on for us!




pics/more info

You will need

~10 ft of AN 8 hose depending on location (10ft will mount behind rad fan) anywhere
4 AN 8 fittings anywhere
1 Oil Cooler - i got it here, but anywhere will do baker precision
1 oil filter housing - ebay or stealer or parts for sale here
2 metric > an adapters + WASHERS!!!!! MachV

Pick your location before ordering the stuff, at $20 a pop you want to make sure you order the right fittings (straight, 90 or 45 degree)

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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 256727 posted 09/12/05 06:56 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks Logick but I'm gonna do it the way Iceman has his set up since I already have a stock cooler. I was thinking the same thing as you with the washers Ice and I'll be using #6 AN hose. I think that will be more than adequate, especially compared to the fact that I was going to just get a NT housing and eliminate it all together. I'll post a list of EXACT part numbers, prices, and pics of what I do.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 257222 posted 09/13/05 03:47 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Not that different in concept from Mark, we're just using the stock cooler, so more adapters are needed. I hope those washers work, since I have all the parts, but haven't installed it yet! I will be using -8 size, but I am going to try some of the pushlock fittings and hose instead, keeping the braided on my race car.

Have to mod my oil filter bracket for the pressure relief flow as in the other thread since I am pulling the balance shafts out right now during the rebuild.



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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 257291 posted 09/13/05 06:53 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quote:

Have to mod my oil filter bracket for the pressure relief flow as in the other thread since I am pulling the balance shafts out right now during the rebuild.




HAHAHA!! Me too, that thread got me thinking of my stupid high oil pressure so I figured I'd fix that and my ticking time bomb of an oil filter housing at the same time. Here are the part numbers I just bought to do the job with a stock 1990 housing and a stock 1990 cooler:

4 - 9919DFJERL #6AN to 16MM x 1.5
4 - 809106ERL #6AN 90* fitting
1 - 306006ERL or 406006ERL #6AN Hose Stainless 6 feet

The total came to about $125 for all of it which means that if you don't already have a 1990 cooler it would be smarter to just buy THIS . I'll keep you all updated on how it goes, it should be in within the next few days since I need to fix this oil leak ASAP.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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jepherz Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 258861 posted 09/18/05 04:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Did you throw this setup on yet, John? If so, can you get any pics of the lines to housing and lines to cooler fittings with it all put together?



-Jeff
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paul j
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319348 posted 03/21/06 03:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Any update on this?



Paul J
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319352 posted 03/21/06 03:30 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
dont forget to port the valve relief port!

i was getting 100+psi cold start and WOT before the porting
now i get 60 - 70psi cold start!

works like a chime!..



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SleepinGVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319604 posted 03/22/06 12:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
How do u port the relief valve?



Sean

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bazeng
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319633 posted 03/22/06 03:04 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      



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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319660 posted 03/22/06 06:48 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I'll try to get some pics of the housing side. If you want to see the cooler end search for FMIC with my username, there are bound to be some of the oil cooler when I took pics of my new FMIC last month.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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CP
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319668 posted 03/22/06 07:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Dumb question, but what is done with the old coolant lines/connections for the stock filter housing? Do they get looped up near the thermostat with a hose or something?

I flipped through my Summit and RPW catelogs last night and started coming up with a list of parts. What's a good size cooler (ie how many rows, dimensions)?



-Cy
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Polish
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319669 posted 03/22/06 07:13 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yes the coolant lines get looped.



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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319670 posted 03/22/06 07:20 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I removed my outlet from the thermostat housing, tapped and plugged it. I am using a 1990 style water pipe to eliminate the other. But this is on a total rebuild with everything apart and out of the car, so it is much easier.



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atc250r Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319691 posted 03/22/06 08:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I replaced the t-stat housing with one from a NT car (DSM or galant it doesn't matter as long as its a 4G63 DOHC). I wouldn't just loop them or cap them since I know that the failure of one of those caused a member here to wreck his car when it blew open and puked antifreeze all over his tires at the track. Either to it the way iceman did it or replace the whole housing like I did.

John



"...if they're so into masochism, they should just really go all out and start modifying Mitsubishis. And using them as daily drivers." - Mike R.

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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319708 posted 03/22/06 08:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So a housing from a crappy regular Galant will work, using our t-stat internals (that gold colored thing with the spring)? I may have to go pluck one from the junker I've been pirating as of late if this is the case.

I'll also need the 1990 big coolant pipe that runs in front of the engine, behind the turbo? I assume that the little coolant line right there that runs from the t-stat to the filter housing is removed? Just making sure before I start looking for parts...



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 319901 posted 03/22/06 03:39 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds right. The thing with the spring is the thermostat.

You can take you pipe and have that little outlet welded up if you can get it off easily.



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CP
Still lingering, kinda like a chili and beer fart


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 320157 posted 03/23/06 07:51 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Might as well just replace the pipe to do it right I suppose. I'm going to try to do the timing belt, all the other belts, water pump, oil filter housing w/ external cooler, water pipe, t-stat housing and turbo all at the same time some weekend.

I'm heading back to the poor Galant I've been stripping in the junkyard today at lunch to check out the t-stat housing and pull it if it's still there. I'll post a picture tonight for clarification purposes.



-Cy
Resident Spec Miata Racer | '93 Audi UrS4 | '04 Ram CTD | #1788/2000: SOLD

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