yea, it will go into gear when its off but it bends and bulges taking the path of least resistance rather than push the selector arm forward, must have been perished and let go when I pulled them off the gearbox.

no pic as of yet but it does, the top boot where the cables clip to the bracket on the gearbox theres a boot, maybe my ones are different than the usdm ones??

going good, it goes in all gears i can drive it now took alot of adjusting up at the gearstick end, still needs more adjusting i will go for a small drive and feel it out, def working though appreciate it.

That blows. Definitely check the rear diff. Should have been checked before swapping new parts in, but you live and learn. Good luck.

Gotcha. fingers crossed.

I've always run redline heavyweight shockproof in the tcase and rear diff, no problem.

EDIT>> I just have the std viscuous lsd rear diff though.

so been a while, car is sitting waiting. starting to stockpile a few things for a build, the plan is to build a second engine.
im no where near any major work just jumping on parts when i see a good price, found a deal for a front case oil pump, it aint oem. heres a link.
click
should i just flag it and go oem or are you safe with an aftermarket front case. its new unused and much cheaper than the above, left over from some guys build

So I got back into it this weekend, now that I have finished my apprenticeship i can put more time and now money (yeah!!!) into the build. This time around I am going to fix a series of leaks, clean up the engine, paint the block, clean up the engine bay (repaint and mild wire tuck), rebuild the front subframe and replace the worn out steering rack. Also by the looks of it one of them crappy ebay BSE kits was used, without the oil groove and that big puk you goop in the front case that leaks, so i ordered the oem parts for a BSE and maybe a new front case. I have seen the results of a stub shaft without the groove and it seized in there and wrecked an oil pump so i could still be up for worse yet. took me six hours (casual with beers in between) to pull the motor. First time without my good mate giving me a hand but it was sweet, labelled most things because I wasn't sure how long it would be out for. This engine hoist was a great purchase just need a bigger shed.

I'll take it for $100....

Engine is moving forward faster than I had first aimed for, Evo 1 cylinder head is back all portwork done and assembled with kelford springs, supertech valves and stem seals, gsc revised lifters, evo 8 rockers and kiggly HLA. Have my cams and all my oem parts in including oil pump front case, sensors, gaskets, all new timing covers and almost every oem bolt I could get my hands on.

Have not locked in a rotating assembly yet, have been entertaining the idea of a 2.3L lately but still undecided.
Got a kiggly girdle all my arp hardware, although iv'e been thinking of getting some h11 headstuds. And started buying some new bushings for the underside.
Will post some pics soon but head is nicely wrapped up and clean so want to keep it that way.
cheers for reading.

Clean car. Looking forward for more photos.

Got an another parcel today, bought some rods. I am sticking with the original plan of a built 2.0l

These are some serious rods, come with H11 rod bolts and they are a nice piece.

Next is pistons, I have a goal to have this motor built by the end of this year and I am on track with that. After that I will have to slow down and start saving, Me and three mates are going to Japan in 2015 and I want to try and track down parts for chassis over there, should be a great trip cannot wait!

My motor is built, I really wanted to assemble this myself but a build of this scale was a bit to much to take on as a first build.
basic specs of the engine
-6 bolt 4g63 block bored to 85.5mm, line honed and decked
-wiseco 1400HD 10.5:1 e85 piston kit 85.5mm
-Crower billet steel I-beam con rods with H11 rod bolts
-eagle 88mm stroke forged crank
-ACL race series big end and main bearings
-kiggly girdle
-ARP main stud kit
-Arp L19 head stud kit
-cometic MLS 1.5mm head gasket

-Evo 1 cylinder head port and polish,valve job, decked and modified to suit 12mm headstuds
-supertech black nitrated valves (standard size)
-supertech bronze valve guides
-supertech valve stem seals
-GSC power division HLA's
-Evo 8 rocker arms
-kiggly HLA oil pressure regulator
-kelford valve springs and titanium retainers
-kelford TX272 cams (degreed)
-hks adjustable cam gears

-hks timing belt
-new oem waterpump, oil pump, cambelt engine mount, timing covers, pulleys, tensioner, bolts and gaskets throughout.
-tilton twin plate clutch and flywheel
-fluidampr

There will be pictures to come but there is not much to see right now its wrapped up. Next step is to send the gearbox away to be inspected and reassembled, buy in the last few items like new engine mounts and alt relocation, rebuild front subframe and depower the steering rack, repaint the engine bay and bolt on the JM fab top mount gtx3582r and magnus v4 2g cast intake manifold.