Hello from New Zealand, I bought my first vr-4 a 1991 rs about 6-7 months ago and have fallen for it, it has turned into a build although pretty mild so far I have big plans.
Engine had 40000km since rebuild, eagle and wiseco combo. Came with a big book of receipts and servicing and has been well looked after.
Body has new paint (factory white), 17' advan RC wheels wrapped in toyo t1r with some king springs and struts. It has an evo 3 manifold with a garrett t28 making 300hp on 16psi nothing special but I love it.
So far I have installed 3g lifters, tore down the engine bay to look at what I had, replaced numerous gaskets, then took on a big job (for me) I rebuilt the driveshaft with all new mitsubishi oem parts with great results. I have now moved to the brakes where the bracket on the strut had bent and rubbed up my stock brakelines so I replaced them with s/s braided lines, and degreased the crap out of the underside of the wheel arch, car is looking good underneath have some minimal surface corrosion from stone chips but am YET to find anything serious.

Please look through my pics I will regularly upload pics of small jobs as I go and look forward to advice from you guys, cheers, Ben.

She's gorgeous, love the car.

Looking good!

So as you may know from a previous post I failed a WoF (warrent of fitness) because the rear brakes were unbalanced, this is what I found



After a polish it cleaned up good. I dont think it was rust, it was brake dust and crap built up as there was no pitting, the dust seal was not seated in the groove.


The stainless braided lines are great and look good. I replaced the rear pads as they were on there way but didn't fully rebuild them as I want to do a five lug swap and possibly got brembos.

Little update, I picked up an evo III rs LSD gearbox, transfer case and axles today

With front LSD, nice!

Ryan or anyone else who would know, are they viscous or plate type LSD? The Evo3 RS box is a box I wouldn't mind running in mine at a later stage! I would want to see if I could swap the internals over to my original casing though, to make it appear original at least.

From what I could find they are plate.
edit: viscous front plate rear

Will the evo3 axles fit a vr4? I thought they were shorter.

I will check
edit: no they are shorter.

You will need to mate the Evo inner cvs with 4bolt axles to make it work.
There is a how to here for it.
evo diff conversion

except he doesn't need to do anything to the rear diff.. he is still running the factory RS Evolution 3.909 1-way plate type LSD rear which is already a four bolt diff.

Ahh crap! Missed that bit!

small update I bought a steering rack, whilst under the car doing the prop shaft I cleaned up underneath the car I found my steering rack leaking so I think I will pull the front subframe and replace some things and repaint it. I want to give the whole front end a clean up and repaint the wheel wells too.

Witht the gearbox swap in full swing after frying the centre diff in the old one I'm doing the obvious maintenence work while I am in there, the flywheel resurfaced and a new main seal, I couldn't get my hands on mitsu stuff in time so i'm trying the ACL seal. I know mitsubishi oem is the best but it will be me fixing it if it fails. They make quality parts so feel comfortable with it, also bought a competition cluth 4 puk race clutch. Like all clutches I have read good and bad things but found a good reference on the competition clutch so went for it.



I bought some red loctite threadlocker for the job, is that what I want to use on the flywheel bolts, and obviously I will clean up and get all the old threadlocker off.

Here is the replaced rear main seal and no longer leaking sump. I put my flywheel back on and my new clutch on, painted the gearbox with an alluminum colour hard wearing paint. Good day of work today, tomorow the steering rack and then I can put it back together!







Snugged down the pressure plate but I dont know the torque spec for those bolts, the competition clutch paper work says follow the vehicles spec, Any one got that number on hand?

11-16 ft/lb, and personally I add blue loctite.

thank you street surgeon time to get a galant workshop manual now

Like this?
Body Electrical
Chassis Mechanical

So today the gearbox went back in, it has been about 5 years since I had last done one so it was a sh*t-fight but with the help of a mate its done.
It bolts right up although there is extra holes for bolting to the 7bolt evo block but engine mounts etc etc all worked. I am not 100% convinced the shifter cables will work although in the same place it feels weird on the stick, we will see once it moves. It had been sitting for the last month anyway here is a picture all painted and in the car it complements the engine bay.