Door sticker was removed off my gvr4.
Can someone tell me what front and rear numbers are posted on door.
I am running 215x45x17 91v winter tires but those numbers should be the same as 195/60/15 on door.

Ty

The factory recommended pressure is:

32 psi fr
28 psi rear

Ty on that pot.
I believe it is the same regardless of max inflation differences. Be it 50lbs, 44lbs or 36 lbs maximum, tire air pressure is still the same whether 15" 17" 18" wheel and tire. Owner manual advises to add 4lbs in snow tires hence 36 front and 32 lbs rear on non studded winter tires.

I always go off what the manufacturer says on the sidewall of the tire. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

That's the maximum rec pressure, WOP, not recommended pressure. (some tires do have recommended pressures, but many)

Pressures between 30-38 shouldn't create excessive tire wear. I run my 235/45R17's at 34 front and 40 rear. Pressures are a fine tuning tool for grip. Higher in the rear will create a tad more oversteer, higher in front=understeer. I would play with the pressures and see how it changes the feel of the car. Also the recommended tire pressures on the door jamb is meant for stock suspension. Modified suspension calls for different pressures as the suspension dynamics have changed. There is no real magic number, as driving habits and suspension set-up differs between cars. Even changing a few psi can make a difference.

sh*t. I'm zero for two today. Time to stop posting and throw back some beers. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

lol, yea newbie quit sh**ing up threads.

I just ran 40 psi all around for a 450 mile trip, I averaged 25 miles to the gallon with no issues

And I would expect that. I bet the center of your tires are a little thinner now though.

My non evidence based personal opinion is that anything below the tire manufacturer's max cold inflation is perfectly acceptable, and won't result in abnormal tire wear.

Also, there are may factors that go into the tire pressure we see in the door jam. Such as load ratings, factory handling characteristics, hydroplane resistance, noise, vibration, wear, suspension durability, resistance to blowouts, etc etc. Many of these factory properties we don't care about. They are also based on the engineering assumption that the car will be equipped with 'X' tire from the factory, and that 'X' tire will be used as a replacement. Clearly when you go from a P195/60-15 ( 86 H or 87V) to a 245/45-17 that's Z or W rated, you are using something entirely different than the factory tire inflation numbers had in mind.

I think two big factor most of us don't care about is noise and ride quality. From my anecdotal experience with my Camry, I've found that running much higher tire inflation pressures than stock results in a noisier and rougher ride. However, I generally get much better gas mileage, and more responsive handling. Which is worth the trade off for me.

So for the OP, I'd say you should consider the ride quality and performance characteristics you care about the most. Only *then* can you decided what your tire inflation will be. My personal method is to start at max cold inflation (Max MPG because I'm a hippie) and work your way down.

I will say this.

When you inflate most tires closer to their max cold pressure, you are more apt to wear the shocks internally due to the harshness created from a tire that now bounces/oscillates in a different manner than the factory prescribed. Tread down the center can suffer, but generally I see shock absorbers on domestic cars, and foreign that are worn/leaking and or abnormal tire wear from the combination of excessive pressures and the resulting tire/shock control issues. Instant turn-in, or lack of sidewall rolling over, yes it can have a somewhat desired effect, but I would sermise that the longevity of the shock will be affected. Much like putting a larger tire/rim into the situation, on the same stock shock with weak valving, and then add in a stiffer spring and take the entire setup right out of it's element, and you see where all this is going.

Stock tire pressure ala the OEM will be fine for comfort and how they designed the car to handle. When you go drag racing, you try something lower, when you go auto-crossing, you try something higher and so on. You can run what you want, but you have to know your suspension and what it was designed for. My Passat takes 35psi front, 44psi in the rear. The shocks are valved and made to control the oscillations of said tire and pressure, over "X" road conditions; ie Autobahn, city etc. Some cars have multiple pressure ratings, based upon what size tires you have and what weight capacity you need to accomodate. The more pressure, the higher the weight and less likely to overheat the tire in a given scenario, within limits. Open to door of a BMW and you will likely see many tire pressures and weight scenario's.

It's all in what you are comfortable running, and how you feel it will affect your equipment. I see this on a daily basis and always find something new in this regard. Heck, we had a Hummer H3 come in and I checked his door mounted Government mandated air pressure label, and it said 37 PSI. Tires were aftermarket mud/all terrain 20/22's and max pressure was 50 PSI cold. Tech beside me says, don't put in 37, go with 85% of the max cold pressure. Life's a box of chocolates ....

Although I said I usually go off what is said on the sidewall of the tire, I never inflate my tires to max cold PSI. But I always inflate them to somewhere North of stock pressures. Somewhere around 36-38psi on my 17" Dunlop Starspecs in the case of what I run currently. When I autocrossed the car in August, I was running about 41psi up front and a pound or two less in the rear.

35 is usually a standard tire pressure to run in a car. BMW's, MINIs run this pressure front and rear. I run 35 front and rear with no issues. But I'm not on stock tires.

Well I have 215x45x17 Dunlop V91 stud-less Winter M&S tires now on 8"+38mm wheels and 235x40x17 Yokahama summer tires on 8"+40mm offset as well. Both are 91v and 93v at 50lbs max. inflation rating in order.
Oddly enough the recommended is 32 front and 28 rear. The Evo, a few hundred pounds heavier than the Vr4 runs 235+ tires on 17" and 18" from the factory which also recommends 32 lbs. front and 28 lbs. rear and they came with yokahama tires with 50lbs max inflation ratings. The owners book recommends additional 4 lbs. on winter tires.

I used to run 40+ lbs. with 3 lbs. difference front to rear. I now am moving to under 37 lbs. front and 33 lbs. rear. It should produce a larger patch in square inches on the road than higher pressures would produce.
The car came equipped with Potenza 195x60x15 87z or v rating with 36 lbs. max inflation, true. with door label pressure 32 lbs. front and 28 lbs. rear on the driver door. Bridgestone support has no suggestions other than manufacturer door posted tire pressure regardless of wheel or width size.Ride height is lowered by H&R springs, Koni adjustable race shocks, and front struts cut a bit over an inch and 4 bolt limited slip rear and 5 lug hubs.