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Re: First time GVR4 owner 965/2000 (3xdsm owner) :)


chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 989317 posted 04/29/11 06:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
vr4hotness- thank you

on a side note I suppose my car couldnt go too much longer being leak free and giving me zero issues :-P.........the car had been occasionally grinding 2nd gear a little unless I let the rpms settle down or rev matched (for downshifting) which I actually didnt/dont think its the syncros I think/thought perhaps the clutch slave cylinder wasnt extending far enough or was leaking a little or something because also sometimes the car would be hard to get into gear (usually only when the car was first fired up in the mornings)....anyhow now the problem has gotten a little worse it pretty much always does it in 2nd gear unless I let the rpms settle down/rev match , its doing it in a few different gears, it being hard to get in gear is becoming more frequent, and if I hold the clutch in with the car in gear it makes the normal twin disc rattle but then another grinding/rattle will sometimes appear and occasionally will actually move the car forward...again making me assuming the issues is with the slave/master cylinder...........but when looking at my slave cylinder (red "piston" btw) it doesnt seem to be leaking although I did see some fluid inside of the transmission/bellhousing....here are two pictures I took with the dust cover/boot removed

Ideas?.....rear main seal...transmission input shaft...oil pan...car gnomes?



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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1023468 posted 10/05/11 08:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Long time no post, just thought i'd give anyone/everyone a quick update. I occasionally drive the car around but it has issues that need to be fixed. The stock radiator heat soaks with my gigantic turbo 1/4" from it when I sit still, so instead of adding more fans I think I am going to just get a half sized honda radiator and run two fans and a air box for it. I am seriously contemplating a little auto cross with this car, maybe fuel cell (although mine if finally clean enough to use), a couple of chassis braces, external fuel pump and filter, lower the battery, upgrade fuel lines, bigger injectors (1000-1200 cc) and eventually I want to build a good exhaust manifold/header for it. The transmission is still leaking some fluid onto my clutch so to prevent burning up the discs I dont drive it much but I am trying to find a way to sell some things and get a shep transmission. Lastly I am strongly considering a 5 lug 4 bolt swap but with retaining AWS by using a MR2 electric power steering pump (hopefully one will be enough for front and back?).

Ill update more as new information is available

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1033306 posted 11/13/11 05:58 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I wish I could update more often but things happen with money...feel free to donate :-D lol

anyhow inspection are due soon for me so I had to get my car able to pass...and my wheel bearing were shot so I was trying to look for some galant 4 lug hubs local and couldnt find any, looked in hollander and noticed that the expo share the same hub and luckily there was one at pull a part. This is where I made a small/bad assumption, I thought that since the hubs were the same the spindle would be the same.......they are close though and will get me through inspections. Also the car rides so much quieter now :-D lol....to make note of some of the differences vs. the gvr4, hubs are the same, but the spindles have differences: Tie rod end is inverted...which isnt a big deal really apparently it is positioned different also because with the tie rod adjusted all the way on both side I still have about 1/4" of toe in...i'd prefer half that or under. Also the brakes are a large single piston vs. dual piston.

On a side note it being inverted might help someone some how....I think the colt guys like the expo spindles over dsm spindles to fix the bump steer in lowered cars. Also just looking at the calipers it looks like I should be able to swap my dual piston calipers over with no problem but I will update once I have the time to do that. Right now I just gotta fix whatever wiring issue I just started having with the dash lights, tail lights and front turn signals not working (probably just a fuse or wire....). I am still on the hunt for a shep transmission for a decent price local and I am tempted to sell my OS giken twin disc cluth and get a QM just because it'd be quicker to get parts if I need them.

Lastly I upgrade to a TRE fuel pump and apparently it puts out better than my walboro 255 b/c I can run more boost before leaning out (with the same base pressure) :-D

Toe just after expo hub/spindle install...yes the steering wheel is straight :-P

tie rod end adjusted all the way...much better...not perfect though

the reason for the different in toe can be seen below (gvr4 left, expo right)(note the tie rod end location)


and if your curious about the brakes being different


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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1033570 posted 11/14/11 01:19 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I took the galant on a 26 mile road trip to school and back and noticed I started leaning out again under boost....which means my lovely fuel filter was clogged again so I decided to take a picture of just how bad it was...it also shows how I have the hangar setup for my external fuel pump.......I really cant imagine there can be much crap left in that tank with all that I have pulled out and all the dirty filters I have gone through (thats even after cleaning it out with a hose and a few tanks of gas)........


Also although the expo spindles and everything are working since they arent optimal after I get this car inspected (gotta fix front turn signal and horn then it should pass) I will decide on either a full 5 lug swap, find some galant 4 lug hub/spindles, buy new wheel bearing for the galant hub/spindles or modify my tie rod end a little (not sure if I would need to cut more threads into the rod or cut some off the end...depends if its bottomed out or not).

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fuel
"Just to be pedantic!"


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1033602 posted 11/14/11 04:09 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
how come you are using expo hubs with smaller single pot brakes as opposed to the original twin pot larger disc of the VR-4? It should be 256mm for the Expo vs 276mm for the VR-4.

Also is that fuel filter on the high pressure side? it looks like a generic low pressure filter for carburetor vehicles to me.



'91 E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | '80 A164A Eterna GSR Turbo

-- Visit my JDM Galant VR-4 info & specifications site here! --

Posts: 2161 | From: Toronto, ON, Canada | Member Since: 02/23/09 | IP: (165.228.55.22) | Report this post to a Moderator

chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1033727 posted 11/14/11 11:54 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
fuel- I am currently using those only because I need to pass inspections and I couldnt locate a set of galant 4 lug hubs/spindles, and I think the brakes/rotors will transfer over I just have been busy trying to get this and my other car back running right again. If I get some free time thursday I will probably try and transfer them over....also I am not currently racing the car so a small temporary down grade in performance is the least of my worries.

The fuel filter is on the pickup/suction side of the external fuel pump.

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FlyingEagle Galant VR4.org Moderator
Eager Beaver


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1033888 posted 11/15/11 08:05 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
click

$160 with brakes installed.



C53A 1 of the ~1500

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1033924 posted 11/15/11 10:37 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
FlyingEagle,

Thanks for that find, I am going to send that guy an email...although honestly I was hoping to find something local to avoid that additional shipping costs....maybe he will want some expo hubs . If you happen to find anything near charlotte, nc let me know lol ( I looked on carolina dsm/ebay/here/craigslist)

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1037128 posted 11/30/11 09:52 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Well after inspections I found out that my front lower control arm bushing was almost non existent.....so I got decided to get a energy suspension bushing kit :-D. Ill be putting the car down soon so I can fix a lot of little things and will probably swap all these in then.



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DR1665
Kill him in the face with Wilson Phillips


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1037777 posted 12/04/11 01:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Hey hey. I like how you're updating this particular car's history in this thread. I ended up here because of your link in the Jay Racing alternator relocation thread. It strikes me you've got one hell of a filthy fuel tank. Has anyone mentioned to you that you can pull the drain plug on the bottom, completely drain it, flush it, and maybe not have so many problems in this regard?

I saved a Galant a couple years back that had been sitting for a good long time. Tank was filthy. It had a burned up Wally in the tank already, but I grabbed a fuel can and a new drain pan (one of those plastic jobbers with the easy-pour necks), drained all the fuel I could from the drain bolt, poured it through a rag into the gas can, then poured the clean(er) gas back into the tank through the pump opening. Ran it through a couple times, got all kinds of ish out in that rag, and it's been running fine ever since. (The two times I've seen the car listed for sale since I sold it, neither mentioned any kind of fuel repairs, anyway.)



Brian | 98 Pajero | Gearbox Magazine

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zberto
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1037782 posted 12/04/11 01:31 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Regarding the turbo being so close to the radiator and you over heating you could get a turbo blanket for the turbine housing to contain the heat. Are you sure that your fans and thermostat are working properly?

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1037830 posted 12/04/11 11:37 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
DR1665- Thank you, it might be a bit length but it is also fun for me to go back to the first pages and look at where I started with everything. Lol yes my fuel tank is pretty nasty, it is sooo much better than it used to be though. I actually have drained it with the drain plug multiple times, and used a transfer pump multiple times. Actually one of the times I drained all of the bad gas out into a filtered bucket, poured the filter fuel back in, drained it, filled it with water and drained it twiced, let it dry but new fuel in and although it is much better its not perfect yet. From what I can feel the top and sides of the tank (on the inside) still have some flaky rust that occasionally gets knocked off. I have been very tempted to remove the tank and or put a fuel cell in it......actually I still am tempted to do that since I have a spare fuel cell, the only real thing holding me back is that it doesnt have a surge tank or sump, but I suppose I could build a surge tank.

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chevyracer5613
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1037831 posted 12/04/11 11:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
zberto- I suppose I could get a turbo blanket, assuming it would fit (due to the thickness and space remaining between turbo and radiator), if it would fit I am sure it would work. I am not 100% that my fans are working but I am pretty sure, I have two fans both hooked to a relay that is activated by the ignition switch, so they are always on...atleast they usually are. I say usually because when I was diagnosing an issue with my lights I noticed that when the lights stopped working so did the fans, but generally the fans are always on. I would like to eventually wire it up to work of the thermostat but thats just one of the many things I plan to fix with time, I also think originally I struggled to find a good wiring diagram of the T-stat sensors/switches for the fans. As far as the actual thermostat it self goes, I assume that it is working but I have not replaced it to verify, the car has never started to over heat if I am moving...its only when I am stopped that the temps start to climb.

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