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Engine only running 3 cylinders and other engine problems

Well it all started out like 2 mounths ago
my buddy who owns the car call me at work as he was supose to pick me up after work and asked if i could take some injector clener
sure asked why. he said his girlfriend took it to downtown and after she gassed it up. it stated running rough. well it it was missing on cylinder 2 it had spark but not getting fuel. so he thought might be bad fuel that might have cluged up the injector.
gave it injector cleaner and drove home like 30 miles on 3 cylinders /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif.
we then took the injector rail out and layed it on the engine block "after it was cooled of" well injector for cylinder 2 didnt spary but suddenly when we cranked it the sec time to see if it was right what we saw it shot the injector out and the wapors ignited with caused fire in the engine bay but we put it out pretty quick so nothing seriors happend other then the cloth on the hood burn. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
cleaned everything up and mounted the rail again fired it up still only ran on 3 cylinders, well enought for one day lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

next day it started fine stil on 3 cylinders we then ohmed the wires for the injectors every was good then we turn our atention to the ECM
i took it out opened it and saw a somthing was fired here
inside1gnoneprom.jpg

we put the box back so we could drive it out but it woundt re-stated we got a pop a few times oh well we thought the box finaly gave up.
a week later my friend got a new box put it in still didnt want to start. after doing to mesuring with a voltmeter it had everything it need. but no SPARK /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

thing car was a mess of wiring so we decied to rip everything out took dash and most of the interior apart to remove all the crappy wiring and the UNGO BOX immobiliser that have been poorly mounted from the factory repaired a pieace of wire that was fired and it started again /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
after 3 weeks of work lol

but still ran on 3 cylinders so we borrewed a new box for a normal Galant 2.0 GTI 4G63, a new ISC, Power Unit, Cam Shaft position sensor.
still no resault so we decied to run a wire from the injector to the ECM didint work at first well now we could drive it again so we just leaved it like that and called it day to look at it the next day well after we have been to the at the mall to get something to drink
i tryed fitling with the wire again it then ran on all cylinders NICE drove it around the block it ran like a dream again still had to set the timing proberly again as we had tryed a diffrent Cam Position Sensor. set the timing the next day and it have been running Super for like a week
then we hit a pot hole with caused the Rack to move and make on of the 4WS lines to leak so we removed the Power Steering Belt until we can get new pipes (new allready ordered). well like a week after this acident it started running rough like not running on all 4 again but it does
it only happens when it warms up, cold running a like a champ and if out give it some pedal if your slow on the on pedal or let it run at idle like cruising in neutral for a stop light it fine but if other then that it will pop into the airbox like the timing is retarted and it dosent have the gid up'n go it use to use to be a power monster. we have a feeling it not an igition problem but a fuel problem

Anyone have any ideas what might be the problem
this is a 1991 Mitsu Galant 2.0 GTI Dynamic 4 AWD, AWS
its the same car as the Galant GSX
Stock everything only has ported and polised head with also have been resurfed and a Catch Can

Thanks Thomas Lentz
Denmark
 

Try replacing the ECM with a known good one, if you can find one to borrow. Can you take a picture of the 'fired' part of the ECM?
 

we tired that actuly tired 4 diffrent once no resalt
sorry dont have the box anymore it was core for out local Mitsu Galant Guru

its a small Smd Component in the area i pictured
 

The small surfacemount part is just a .1uF capacitor, with is not essential to the proper operation of the ECU. But, it proves that your ECU was the victim of leaking capacitors in that same area:
click
As others have said, you need to try a KNOWN good ECU. Bad ECU's are commonplace, even from "rebuilders".
 

Found the problem!
fuel pressure regulator
we changed it out to one we could Adjustable insted it runs like champ again

now we only have to change the 2 4WS lines, new and better clutch, 4 tires, fix the rust, mount the new round fog lights (4), add Throttle bodies and Programbel ECM
we are shooting for N/A 200HP thats good enough for a starter motor /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 
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