tektic
Well-known member
I'm wondering abou oil pressure to my head.
When installing an oil diverted is ther agasket or seal necessary?
When installing an oil diverted is ther agasket or seal necessary?
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very loud hla on new engine rebuild
- Thread startertektic
- Start date
CutlassJim
Well-known member
Nope. Just clean the surfaces and bolt on.
tektic
Well-known member
Ok thanks. Might be why my lifters are so Damn loud.
tektic
Well-known member
When cranking engine with plugs out and oil cap off, how much oil should be coming out of the oil hole in the rocker above the lifter?
Oil is comming out but should it be shooting up over the cam ?
Oil is comming out but should it be shooting up over the cam ?
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CutlassJim
Well-known member
When just cranking over not much. If you start the car with the valve cover off oil will hit the roof of your garage. Don't ask me how I know that.
tektic
Well-known member
Well it doesn't quite hit the roof but it is spraying on the cam when running. Should I consider that low oil pressure?
I blead my hla's before installing. The engine is very loud now. I'm wondering what I'm to do next. Drive it to brake in or idk.
I blead my hla's before installing. The engine is very loud now. I'm wondering what I'm to do next. Drive it to brake in or idk.
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prove_it
Well-known member
After bleeding the HLAs it will be noisy, but should only last up to a min tops. If not, there is insufficient oil flow.
tektic
Well-known member
I have 78psi at ofh on a cold start with 10w-30.
After removing the valve cover I inspected the diverter and it was not cloged all the silicone i used still seemed present and I removed it. None of the hlas looked totally collapsed.
What else can I do here? The lifters don't seem as loud as they were but they are a lot louder than normal.
3-4-14 EDIT: After reviewing solutions from other web sites I have decided to drive it for a few miles to see if the hlas finish pumping up. There is only like 10 min on this engine and no signs of wear on the cams. As previously stated the oil doesn't hit the garage roof but there it does look like a water gun shooting directly at the cam lobe.
On to the next problem... Clutch disengagement. Hoping its just a pedal adjustment.
After removing the valve cover I inspected the diverter and it was not cloged all the silicone i used still seemed present and I removed it. None of the hlas looked totally collapsed.
What else can I do here? The lifters don't seem as loud as they were but they are a lot louder than normal.
3-4-14 EDIT: After reviewing solutions from other web sites I have decided to drive it for a few miles to see if the hlas finish pumping up. There is only like 10 min on this engine and no signs of wear on the cams. As previously stated the oil doesn't hit the garage roof but there it does look like a water gun shooting directly at the cam lobe.
On to the next problem... Clutch disengagement. Hoping its just a pedal adjustment.
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EfiniX
Well-known member
THIS:
click
I have a brand new build. Lifters are noisy as hell on cold starts. I accept that the break-in oil could be contributing, but after a chat with EHMotorsports, we decided revised lifters were in order.
you may be able to see why...
He says he can get them in without pulling the cams, so we're doing it when it goes back in post-break-in for a service, a rear main seal (doh), and some helicoil work on various bolt holes on the drivetrain we found stripped during the build.
click
I have a brand new build. Lifters are noisy as hell on cold starts. I accept that the break-in oil could be contributing, but after a chat with EHMotorsports, we decided revised lifters were in order.
you may be able to see why...
He says he can get them in without pulling the cams, so we're doing it when it goes back in post-break-in for a service, a rear main seal (doh), and some helicoil work on various bolt holes on the drivetrain we found stripped during the build.
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Wow, I remember when these could be had for around 75 bucks! Have you seen this mod?
click
I know your head is already on but I have done this to at least five different heads I can think of and most still run the old style hlas, the results are amazing and every one of them was very quiet while running. I went this method on my personal car along with the 3mm hlas and it is even super quiet on a cold day/cold start after sitting for a few weeks too. Also it is very possible to swap out the hlas with the cams in place.
click
Sorry about the Tooners links but they are very well put together tutorials.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
click
I know your head is already on but I have done this to at least five different heads I can think of and most still run the old style hlas, the results are amazing and every one of them was very quiet while running. I went this method on my personal car along with the 3mm hlas and it is even super quiet on a cold day/cold start after sitting for a few weeks too. Also it is very possible to swap out the hlas with the cams in place.
click
Sorry about the Tooners links but they are very well put together tutorials.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BogusSVO
Well-known member
tekic, Did you do the oil mod? Do you know the thickness of your head? What HG did you install?
Keep in mind the head is oiled last, so pressure and flow are reduced by the time it makes it to the head. But from reading of the Kiggley HLA regulator, the HLAs need about 15psi.
It can take 30 or so minutes for them to shut up with 50psi or so being pushed through them so they can lock into place.
Also if the HLAs have age on them, and went thu several infrequent oil changes they can varnish up causing the valve to stick. Cleaning them as the FSM says can make matters worse by softening the varnish.
At this point disassembly or replacement of the HLA is needed.
Now these come from the same manufacture that Mitsubishi used when the factory was buying them.
click
They are the revised 3g style.
EfiniX, If you have not ordered a set, I would suggest the above set.
Fiascoxl, I know about that link. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
You can find it on this board.
click
You may like this one too.
click
Keep in mind the head is oiled last, so pressure and flow are reduced by the time it makes it to the head. But from reading of the Kiggley HLA regulator, the HLAs need about 15psi.
It can take 30 or so minutes for them to shut up with 50psi or so being pushed through them so they can lock into place.
Also if the HLAs have age on them, and went thu several infrequent oil changes they can varnish up causing the valve to stick. Cleaning them as the FSM says can make matters worse by softening the varnish.
At this point disassembly or replacement of the HLA is needed.
Now these come from the same manufacture that Mitsubishi used when the factory was buying them.
click
They are the revised 3g style.
EfiniX, If you have not ordered a set, I would suggest the above set.
Fiascoxl, I know about that link. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
You can find it on this board.
click
You may like this one too.
click
EfiniX
Well-known member
Thanks, Bogus. With the 264's, definitely something worth having. And you read my mind as I already ordered them!
And for the record, Bogus did the oil mod on the head he sent me already, so the revised lifters are definitely a must for me as well as they tick pretty loud on cold mornings.
And for the record, Bogus did the oil mod on the head he sent me already, so the revised lifters are definitely a must for me as well as they tick pretty loud on cold mornings.
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tektic
Well-known member
I have a new set of 3mm hlas installed. I did cut the head and the grove for the oiling port was enlarged for the head. It may not be as big as some people do it but it looked to be slightly bigger than a stock head after head was surfaced. Also balance shafts Were eliminated and 90 ofh was ported for reduced pressure. Evo 3 oem mls head gasket. Don't know the head thickness.
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BogusSVO
Well-known member
With the oil port mod done, you should have decent flow to the head.
From what I measured on about a dozen head, the oil port with head gasket thickness needs to be appox .100 deep to put it around what it was from the factory.
From what I measured on about a dozen head, the oil port with head gasket thickness needs to be appox .100 deep to put it around what it was from the factory.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Fiascoxl
Well-known member
Engnbldr!!!!!!!!!! I have bought so much crap off of him in the past, easily one of the best ebay vendors i have ever used!
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FlyingEagle
Staff member
My lifters took quite a while to quiet down after the rebuild.
Bled down before install. Head oil port mod performed to some degree - didn't measure but took out more than what was decked from the head, and radius the channel some.
Cold weather, 5/10-30/40 weight oils in the pan and 264/27's loping away, at idle mostly. Doesn't take forever, but the oil has to warm up to sneak in better.
Bled down before install. Head oil port mod performed to some degree - didn't measure but took out more than what was decked from the head, and radius the channel some.
Cold weather, 5/10-30/40 weight oils in the pan and 264/27's loping away, at idle mostly. Doesn't take forever, but the oil has to warm up to sneak in better.
tektic
Well-known member
Good to know. I have not gotten it up to temp yet. Want to get a timing light on it before I start it again.
