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front main seal problems.

ggsxkid

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
Location
La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
I recently built an engine for da vr4. And the first time I ran it/ started breaking it in about 2 years ago I had the front main seal pop out and leak oil everywhere..... so I recently bought a new t-belt and main seal. Got it all back together and started priming for oil pressure (turning the engine over with no spark and unplugged the injectors.) Well a little while into it the engine started leaking again and I hadn't even started it/ran/or driven the car........ there has got to be something I'm doing wrong.

Here is a list of my shortblock set up:
Ross pistons
Scat rods
Acl bearings for both mains and rods
Around main studs
oe front cover/ oil pump
Ams balance shaft elimination kit with the replacement secondary balance shaft spacer. (It gets rid of that wide balance shaft gear for the front balance shaft)

Any pointers?
 

As long as the front main seal was installed straight and is flush with the front case then that's all you need. I always use OEM seals as well and have never had an issue.

If the case is gouged you can use an extremely light coat of RTV around the seal before installation but don't use too much otherwise you'll block the opening to return oil to the oil pan. If the crank has a gouge bad enough to cause a leak they make repair sleeves and a special seal to go with them.

If you are having trouble installing the seal straight I made an installation tool using PVC parts from Home Depot Racing.

Also, if you didn't port the oil pressure relief valve after removing the balance shafts I guarantee you that your oil pressure will be ridiculously high.
 

ggsxkid

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Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
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La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
Once I get it back apart ill check the crank for any nicks or something like that. I'm with you on the oe seals part. If I remember correctly the last time I think I might have had a low oil pressure prob. At a low idle the dummy light would flicker... I should probly get a Gage and tap off the oil filter housing to know for sure..... I might take it apart tomorrow. Ill let you know what I find. Thanks man.
 

ggsxkid

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Joined
Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
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La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
Sooo.. I finally got it all back apart and the seal did pop back out. Idk if having it flush with the front case just wasn't far enough? But I'm gonna start new, get another seal, and use a piece of PVC pipe to tap it as far in as I can get it. It all looks to be fine as far as the surface for the crank goes.

On another note I brought a drill to spin the oil pump shaft to build oil press. It had pressure almost instantly with the drill. So that's good Haha. I'm probly going to get a gauge to see where its at all the time.

Is it possible to have to much oil press and pop the front main out?
 

transparentdsm

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Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
when you did the balance shaft, did you remember to get a shorter bolt and cover it with rtv to replace the balance shaft tensioner pulley bolt because oil will pour out from there making it look like its coming from the seal. now it is leaking from the timing belt side not the transmission side?? because you said rear main seal and front main seal, one is the trans side and the other is the timing belt side.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Quoting ggsxkid:
No pointers?



The potential high oil pressure should not affect that seal. There is crankcase pressure there, but not direct oil pressure.
 

ggsxkid

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Joined
Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
Location
La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
Quoting transparentdsm:
when you did the balance shaft, did you remember to get a shorter bolt and cover it with rtv to replace the balance shaft tensioner pulley bolt because oil will pour out from there making it look like its coming from the seal. now it is leaking from the timing belt side not the transmission side?? because you said rear main seal and front main seal, one is the trans side and the other is the timing belt side.




Well I replaced both. I had a drip from the rear one and the front one popped out.
 

ggsxkid

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Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
Location
La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
Quoting iceman69510:
Quoting ggsxkid:
No pointers?



The potential high oil pressure should not affect that seal. There is crankcase pressure there, but not direct oil pressure.




Ahhhh I see now. Just truly was not sure. Cause I was thinking about doing the oil pressure relief valve to drop the oil press like some people have in the past.
 

TRBODSM

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Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
278
Location
Northglenn, CO
I know it's a stupid question but is the seal installed the wrong way? If not maybe it isn't being pressed in all the way. Did you lubricate the seal to where it touches the crank? I've never heard of anyone popping that seal off.
 

ggsxkid

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Joined
Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
Location
La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
^^^well that's another thing too. I bought another seal got a piece of PVC like some one all's posted.. Haha knocked it all the way in. Started it up and by the time I got back out of the car it had already started pouring oil.....now Before I put it together this last time I took a good look at the position of the crank in it..... when I looked towards the top I could see some space/ the inner lip. And when I looked to the bottom there was no clearance/ seeing of the inner lip of the seal. Almost like the crank was being was being pushed down against the seal. The crank was not centered at all between the seal..... so either I have a bent crank, the front cover is not centered right....(no balance shafts) or the bottom end is just not right... I think itstime to call some performance shops ie ams or magnus. Let me know what you guys think. As always thanks.

Adam
 

pauleyman

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Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
91
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
Sounds like a bent crank or somebody line honed that thing and had no clue what they were doing. It would be difficult to get a transmission to run right either. Clutch would be off center also.
 

ggsxkid

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Joined
Dec 15, 2005
Messages
919
Location
La vergne TN/Lake Zurich IL
Hmmm the line honed part would make sense. Since your supposed to do that when you put the arp mains in. Now I bought thathis shortblock with the crank work done prior/ it was already bolted in and all I had my mechanic do was drop the pistons in and assemble the rest of it. Hmmm good thing I still have the original crank and block lol.
 
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