Redoing Vac Lines and catch can setup. need info

[turbophein]

Ok so i know my cars vac lines have not been optimal since i bought it, boost controller is connected to BOV and boost gauge with a couple "T" fittings, most ports are blocked on the Throttle body, and the catch can setup is pretty much useless. so now that i am going speed density and switching stuff around, now is the perfect time to redo the vac lines and catch can

I have:

emission delete
E16g with no nipple on turbo outlet
91-94 TB
matching 1g turbo intake manifold (2 vac Ports)

so which port will be best for each part listed below.

Forge BOV (attached to bigger Intake Manifold port)
Boost Controller to tapped turbo outlet
Boost gauge (attached to "P" port)
Map Sensor (attached to brake Booster line with "T" temporarily)
Fuel Lab FPR (attached to smaller Intake Manifold Port)

(updated to final setup)

The catch can setup that came with the car is pretty stupid. the valve cover vent, is connected to a vented catch can. and that's it, lol

i know you guys have some newer clever ways of routing thins than the old taboo speed shop diagram



Thanks

 

[DynastyLCD]

Real simple. So, stock setup with taboo vac lines would have afpr and boost gauge teed together, and mbc and bov together.

This requires a drill, decent bits, and a q npt tap. Drill and tap the j pipe or compressor cover, use that for mbc. Drill and tap intake manifold, use that port for boost gauge. Now nothing is teed off. This is how I run mine. Any good parts store will have 1/8th npt fittings with barbs for a vacuum line.

 

[vr4play]

I would tap the back of the manifold for the MAP sensor. There is a raised spot on that back side that works perfect. I would use the other unused intake manifold nipple for the bov. I would use the P nipple on the throttle body for the boost gauge. I would add a nipple to the turbo outlet for the boost controller as most wastegates don't like to see vacuum. As for catch can this is what I did. There is a guy on ecmlink forum and also on dsmtuners named Calan. I got his catch can and added fittings to the VC.

 

[turbophein]

thanks guys. i was out in the garage working on it, i updated the post.

after doing a little searchng i found this. click

i think this could clean up the engine bay rather nicely. you just need to fit it in between the brake booster and manifold. what do you guys think?

 

[swe_gvr4_1991]

I know i am going to step on some toes now.
But don't use the P-port for anything crucial since it has a severe lag to it. This is easy to confirm with a air compressor and you'll see what i mean.

The MAP sensor, AFPR and boost gauge goto the small FPR nipple. This coz these 3 things need a "closed" air feed. Do not use boost controller here since it can bleed air pressure. A ball & spring type controller is ok on this line.
BOV goes to the big BOV port.

 

[turbophein]

ok so i finished up my vac lines.

i tapped the turbo outlet pipe with 2 fittings.

1 for the MAP sensor and 1 for the boost controller. i mounted the map sensor on a bracket bolted to my fan for a close install. maybe 6" of vac hose to the sensor.

i think it came out nice and clean.





i am thinking about tapping the Valve cover the same way for the catch can setup.

thanks for the help guys!

 

[mitsuturbo]

MAP. Manifold Absolute Pressure. This needs to measure pressure and vacuum after the throttle plate.

Not pre-intercooler charge pipe pressure. Now you have to plug a hole and move the map sensor if you want your car to run right on SD. No doubt you're getting wildly inaccurate readings with it there. Depending on your fmic you could be seeing a great deal of pressure drop. Regardless, the MAP will never see vacuum there.

 

[turbophein]

this does not make me happy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif i haven't started it yet, still finishing up the cam install. i need to figure out another plan now... i'm not interested in tapping the manifold if it isn't off the car. a vacuum manifold might be the next step.

 

[swe_gvr4_1991]

Don't worry, you can use that nice pre-turbo nipple to measure IC pressure drop on a second boost gauge or hook it up to the EGRT pin of the ECU to log it. (ECU software needs to support that.)
Also don't put the MAP sensor on anything that gets to hot since the microcontroller inside it compensates for temperature. So a even ambient temp is to prefer.

 

[vr4play]

I wouldn't be worried about tapping the intake manifold while on the car. I've done plenty with no problems. If your really concerned you can take the throttle body off and have someone run a vacuum while you drill and tap the hole. That is the best place for it.

 

[turbophein]

Thanks, I was thinking that 2nd port could come in handy for something one day. dyno tuning, i'm sure it would come in handy. its already plugged up, no harm done, just a little time wasted setting it up.

I ended tapping into the brake booster line for the MAP Sensor. i (pulled) off the booster line at the manifold and used a "t" fitting, i also cut off a small 2 inch section of 3/8" fuel line i had to reconnect to manifold, this avoided cutting the factory brake booster line as this is a temporary solution until i get my SMIM.

This option started when I was considering getting a vacuum manifold to solve this problem before, that kind of setup would use the same IM Brake booster port as a source, but i have no need for that many ports to need a vacuum manifold, so after some quick research i found many people tapping the booster line the same way i wanted to. We will see once i start the car hopefully int he next day or so.

No modification needed to the stock parts is the best part of this mod, completely reversable.

 

[strokin4dr]

So you are still using the factory line from the brake booster to the t-fitting, correct? There is a check valve in that line that needs to stay there so just making sure.

 

[turbophein]

absolutely. lessen learned years ago on that. i actually just fixed my buddies sti for that very reason a month ago. he changed out all his hoses with colored crap, and then he wondered why his brakes were not working right...

 

[FlyingEagle]

I would suggest flipping the map sensor upside down, because they are installed from the factory this way, as were my instructions for the Defy Racer Blue's. Reason being, moisture and the fact that it can pool in the sensor the way it stands now. Not knowing if that would ever happen, BUT it's a pretty good reason to keep moisture out of such an important data maker.