GalantVR4.org The Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Forum
NOTICE: This forum is for archiving information and discussions. Please do not reply to threads unless you have valuable information to add. Do not post questions or problems here.

Galant VR-4 Forums » Galant VR-4 » How To and Info Archive » Keeping 4ws with 4bolt rear
Previous thread Next thread

Keeping 4ws with 4bolt rear


Mitsuturbo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109444 posted 12/04/03 11:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Has anyone else done this besides me? Just curious.

If so, didn't you find it more simple than trying to get rid of the 4ws?

| | | IP: (67.161.247.241) | Report this post to a Moderator

TeamDucktape
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109445 posted 12/04/03 11:57 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
quote:
Originally posted by Mitsuturbo:
Has anyone else done this besides me? Just curious.

If so, didn't you find it more simple than trying to get rid of the 4ws?

Didn't you just awnser your own question? So sence you did it what did you use for shims?

| | | IP: (65.31.191.63) | Report this post to a Moderator

Mitsuturbo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109446 posted 12/05/03 12:36 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Used the 3 bolt case with original shims. Just swapped in a 4 bolt carrier and put the 4ws gear on it. Tolerances were "perfect" this way.
I am guessing that the case is the variable which requires diff. sized shims. Either way, it worked out just great.
I like my 4ws, especially on the freeway, and didn't want to get rid of it.

| | | IP: (67.161.247.241) | Report this post to a Moderator

turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109447 posted 12/05/03 12:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Andre Santaso from NWDSM did that to his car. I might have him do mine when I swap to a four bolt.

Posts: 11963 | From: Yakima, WA | Member Since: 04/29/01 | IP: (68.118.212.154) | Report this post to a Moderator

spoulson
0 people like this


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109448 posted 12/05/03 07:24 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's the best method for determining shim size in the rear? Solder crush method like in the trans?

Posts: 2907 | From: Middletown, DE | Member Since: 02/05/03 | IP: (204.154.71.104) | Report this post to a Moderator

pisces
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109449 posted 12/05/03 09:40 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Could anyone point me to a website or give me a quick rundown of whats needed for the swap and the procedure? This has been rattling around in my head for a while and I'd REALLY like to know a bit more of what goes into the swap.

| | | IP: (216.251.182.189) | Report this post to a Moderator

MustGoFaster
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109450 posted 12/05/03 12:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
What's needed:
4 bolt diff
Left and right 4 bolt axles
4 bolt "Cups" or as the dealer calls them axle flanges.


1. It easiest if you take off the rear bar that hold up the diff (2 bolts right into the back of the diff) but it might be possible to leave it on.
2. Remove axles
3. Drain
4. Remove rear cover.
5. Remove the two bearing caps, one on each side, 4 bolts total
6. Pry the diff out.
7. press the rear pump drive gear off the 3 bolt diff and on to the 4 bolt diff. You may need to remove the bearing on that side of the diff to do this.
8. Put 4bolt diff into 3 bolt case with 3 bolt shims, as the case seems to be the variable and when my friend tried to use the shims from the 4 bolt case he spent a long time trying to get the diff back out.
9. Check the meshing of the gears, backlash ect.
10. reverse steps 4-1 and use 4 bolt axles and cups.

That's the basic run down.

| | | IP: (63.228.8.193) | Report this post to a Moderator

Mitsuturbo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109451 posted 12/05/03 06:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
That's exactly right, but you forgot one thing. The 4WS Pump has to come out before you can take the differential carrier out, i believe.

I found it easiest to just completely unbolt the diff case from the rear crossmember and remove it, swapping carriers outside the car.

| | | IP: (67.161.247.241) | Report this post to a Moderator

Duc Hunter
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109452 posted 12/07/03 01:16 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Since I do not drag launch my car I am tempted to just do a 3 bolt TEL LSD and keep the 4WS. Hmmmmmm.....What to do? I launch but not that hard.....3bolts are SO cheap...hmmmm.

| | | IP: (12.129.244.232) | Report this post to a Moderator

Darkside
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109453 posted 12/07/03 01:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Since everyone talking about 3 bolt diff. How much one going to run me. Where it came off from. And you was saying 3 bolt is so cheap. You mean its not relieble, but have LSD, ums......how about converting to LSD instant of swap Diff. Would that work also.....

| | | IP: (64.166.61.137) | Report this post to a Moderator

Kibo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109454 posted 12/07/03 03:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
In response to the original question: search the archives. [Roll Eyes]

| | | IP: (64.58.31.30) | Report this post to a Moderator

Mitsuturbo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109455 posted 12/07/03 02:42 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
From my personal experience.....

3 bolt rear end = 13 different busted rear axles

4 bolt rear end = 0 busted rear axles

| | | IP: (67.161.247.241) | Report this post to a Moderator

ken inn
BJ Titsengolf lifer


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109456 posted 12/07/03 04:50 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
i just had this done. scott rebuilt the original diff in my car, and installed an lsd cartridge. he says since i'm not going racing, i dont need a 4 bolt, and he also recommended keeping the 4ws. the other day i had it up on the lift, and i can turn the rear wheel, and the other side turns the same way. really neat.

Posts: 7529 | From: krum texas | Member Since: 02/23/01 | IP: (4.47.42.108) | Report this post to a Moderator

Minjin
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 109457 posted 12/07/03 11:38 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Most people don't need a 4 bolt. 3 bolt LSD is plenty...

Most of the people who break 3 bolts are breaking non-lsd axles.

Mark

| | | IP: (24.54.214.199) | Report this post to a Moderator

theevozero
Member +
480/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1138983 posted 09/04/13 01:12 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Gonna do this. Been running a 4 bolt since I've had the car. Trying to find all my 4ws parts, since it was deleted prior to my purchase of the car. Also have a gvr4 3 bolt. This sounds simple enough.



L1, Diesel ASE Master
1991 Gvr4 480/2000 290k miles.(garage queen, race car)
1998 Integra LS, (nice suspension) daily duty.
2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali AWD
2000 Volvo S70 T5, 5 speed(fun project #2)

Posts: 331 | From: Odessa, Texas | Member Since: 10/12/11 | IP: (173.245.50.178) | Report this post to a Moderator

mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1138997 posted 09/04/13 02:16 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Anonymous:

That's exactly right, but you forgot one thing. The 4WS Pump has to come out before you can take the differential carrier out, i believe.

I found it easiest to just completely unbolt the diff case from the rear crossmember and remove it, swapping carriers outside the car.




Wow. This is old.

I just did this not too long ago, on a different car. The 4ws pump does NOT have to come out. Here's how i did it, step by step.


A couple of prerequisites...
BUY NEW AXLE SEALS
Remove the 4 bolt differential from the case and inspect it thoroughly. Replace bearings if they show any signs of wear.

1. Jack up the car, put it on stands. Place the stands under the frame of the vehicle, not on the rear subframe.
2. Drain the rear differential
3. Remove both rear axles and 3 bolt cups.
4. Supporting the rear diff case, pull the 2 bolts that hold the diff case to the mustache brace.
5. Lower the rear diff case and pull the cover. Remove the mustache brace if it's still in the way.
6. Remove the caps on either side of the differential, drop the diff. KEEP EACH SIDE SHIM AND RACE WITH THE SIDE IT CAME FROM.
7. Remove the differential/ring gear/4ws drive gear assembly.
8. Remove the ring gear from the 3 bolt diff, and the 4 bolt diff. Put the 3 bolt ring gear onto 4 bolt diff. (use loctite)
9. Carefully press off both bearings from the 3 bolt diff. Don't damage them. Keep them marked so you know which side to put them on.
9. Carefully remove the drive gear and pin for the 4ws pump from the 3 bolt diff.
10. Remove the bearings from the 4 bolt diff.
11. Carefully press the 4ws drive gear, pin and bearings from the 3 bolt diff on the 4 bolt diff.
12. Install the diff with the shims and races you pulled out. Shims go with the case. (they're also a pain to re-install) Races go with their respective bearings.

I would recommend you check the ring/pinion engagement at this point, but the 3 i have done did not require any adjustment. On one of them, i replaced the bearings at the same time. The variable here appears to be the cast iron case, not so much the more precision machined differential carriers. If you're working with GOOD used parts, it should not be an issue. If everything lines up alright, put it all back together, fill it up, and enjoy your 4 bolt rear-end and 4ws combination.

13. Clean up the mating surfaces, polish/clean up your diff cover, and install it. Make sure you seal it up with some ultra grey.
14. Raise the diff and affix the mustache brace to it. (and the car if you removed it)
15. Install the 4 bolt axle cups and axles. Note: BE CAREFUL with the retaining circlips on the axles. I once buggered up one circlip by trying to force it in. It helps to put a little heavy grease on these circlips to hold them in place during installation.

Double check everything, make sure it's tight, fill the diff, get the car on the ground and take it for a test drive.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

Posts: 3537 | From: Near Seattle, Washington | Member Since: 06/02/08 | IP: (199.27.128.206) | Report this post to a Moderator

theevozero
Member +
480/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1139125 posted 09/05/13 08:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Assuming the pinion bearings are okay, this should be okay to do...



L1, Diesel ASE Master
1991 Gvr4 480/2000 290k miles.(garage queen, race car)
1998 Integra LS, (nice suspension) daily duty.
2009 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali AWD
2000 Volvo S70 T5, 5 speed(fun project #2)

Posts: 331 | From: Odessa, Texas | Member Since: 10/12/11 | IP: (108.162.221.149) | Report this post to a Moderator


Pages: 1
Previous thread Next thread

Extra information
0 registered and 4 anonymous users are browsing this forum.

Galant VR4.org Moderator:  curtis, steve, atc250r, jcgalntvr4-244, cheekychimp, jepherz, Rausch, toybreaker, iceman69510, pot, FlyingEagle 

Print Thread

Forum Permissions
      You cannot start new topics
      You cannot reply to topics
      HTML is disabled
      UBBCode is enabled

Rating:
Thread views: 7762

Rate this thread


News & Events: News | Events
Galant VR-4: Newbies | General VR4 Discussions | Technical Discussions | How To and Info Archive
Marketplace: Parts For Sale | Cars For Sale | Good Guys | Bad Guys
Community: Members' Showcase

Contact Us | Privacy statement GalantVR-4.org

Generated in 0.047 seconds in which 0.012 seconds were spent on a total of 14 queries. Turbo powered.



Hertz's Galant VR-4 Page