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weird car behavior

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
Ok so last night I'm driving on the freeway and I start pushing it and turn my boost on high. I got up to 1.10 bar and then dropped ot back to low. :45 bar. So immediatly after this I notice my car is not running as smooth and when I get to an incline my car seems to be struggling hard and shuddering. I had to shift down to 4th to keep going and not shudder to a stop. At idle my car makes a. "Brum brum brum" sound like it was cammin' which it is not. And accelerating it shudders everywhere too. Above 3k it seems to drive smooth, and it has a huge lack of power.
My first thought is a misfire due to a blown fuel injector. I say this cuz I took a whiff of my exhaust when I got home and it didn't smell like it had any exessive hydrocarbons or raw gas.
Does anyone else have any ideas? Any help is a big thank you.
 

Barnes

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
Sounds like you popped an intercooler pipe off.
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
Bump for more than intercooler and injector ideas
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
I did a visual. I don't have a boost leak tester. But everything is attached and tight. But honestly it does not feel like any kind of vacuum leak. I will check though
 

Make sure you have good spark coming to each spark plug / wouldn't hurt to check the spark plugs either.
 

AnotherNewb

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Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
By BRUM BRUM are you describing idle surge? Don't count on your visual inspection to tell you your intercooler pipes aren't leaking. I don't understand why people are so reluctant to make and use a boostleak tester. You eliminate a possible problem and gain a cool tool.

Step 1. Go to Napa, get a rubber coupler used for trucks that is the same size as your turbo inlet, some hose clamps, and a male air hose fitting.

Step 2. Go to Home Depot or Lowes or whatever hardware store you have and find something to plug the hose with and a small valve that fits the end of your airchuck.

Step 3. insert plug into hose. Drill plug to fit small valve. Attach airchuck to valve.

Coupler and clamps- $5
Plumbing plug - $2
Valve and airchuck- $4

Finding a boost leak and fixing your idle surge: Priceless /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
visa-logo-its-everywhere-you-want-to-be-slogan.jpg
 

Barnes

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
Another quick question: Have you replaced the capacitors on your ECU?
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
so after a long time of my car just sitting waiting for me to get to it, it turns out i had 0 compression in cyl. 3 and low compression in the others. my exhaust manifold looks like it got hit with a 8.9 earthquake. my knock sensor is melted, and my intake runners have a good centimeter of black crap in them. my turbo is good tho =). i got a good deal on a freshly rebuilt engine, so in with the new and out with the old


 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
That last pic looks like EGR buildup. Plain and simple. Block that sh*t off when you're not dealing with the smog nazis.
 

NickDromez

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Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
ok, so i now offically have a new engine in my car and it runs fine and sounds good and everything. problem is, it keeps stalling out on me. i remember when i took off my recirculation tube it kept stalling out on me, and now its doing it again. the recirc tube was off and i reattached it and its still stalling out. the only mods to the intake are a 2g maf, and a no name intake pipe. i also just put a evo3 exhaust manifold on. could the evo3 exhaust mani be the problem? or does it sound like somthing else?
 

AnotherNewb

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Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
1,472
Location
Orlando, FL
2g maf with stock injectors and no compensation could be your problem. If you haven't compensated you need to either get an SAFC, 550 injectors, or a chip burned for your mods. Reason being is that the 2g maf reads something like 30% lower than our factory maf. If you have compensated then check base timing, set the biss screw and makes sure the throttle stop switch is properly working and adjusted right. Oh yeah, do a boost leak test.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 
Last edited:

fastfalcon94

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Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
92
Location
Milton, VT
Are you using a wideband? Did you ever tear your first engine apart? I'm curious if you have any landrings on your piston:) a 2g maf, evo 560 cc injectors, and evo16g is pretty safe to run without a tune.
 

1990ggsxnj

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Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
I think you may want to visit the vfaq site for a bit....or more if you have already. You're about to kill another engine without figuring out what went wrong in the first place. Not to mention it could have just been a simple head gasket that gave way (not likely though). There are a few things that can cause a bad idle. Check the vfaq. If you've already done basic stuff (besides a visual check lol) than list it.
 
Last edited:

broxma

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Nov 16, 2009
Messages
911
Location
San Antonio Tx
Stalling, and I assume you mean at idle/off throttle, is most likely a lean condition. Again, boost leak test. If you changed any intake parts, probably in the tune then.

/brox
 

NickDromez

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
ok it is not a boost leak. i checked that. i think i should have worded my post better. when i start the car it actually idles ok, and i can rev it up when im in neutral or the clutch is in. however, as soon as i drive, even if it is 10 feet, and i put the clutch pedal down again it will just dies. i put the stock intake back on last night and its still the same.

another thing that is weird to me is that when i start my car after it dies the cranking will dim the headlights all the way off and once my car is idling again the headlights will be bright. and the little chimes will ring but they sound really crappy, like they are strugling to chime. i thought my battery or alternator could be bad, maybe it is, but when i rev the engine the lights get a little brighter.

but i was looking at my car and all the wiring and everything and i noticed my knock sensor is bad. also my CEL is on now. could the knock sensor have anything to do with my problem?

but i guess i will read some more vfaq to help also.
thanks.
 

1990ggsxnj

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Joined
Nov 21, 2008
Messages
525
Location
Blackwood, NJ
Check that your battery and alternator connections are ok before replacing anything..
Did the engine you got already have the alternator on it?
 
Last edited:

NickDromez

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Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
165
Location
Berkeley, CA
it did not come with an alternator, im using the one i've always used on it, which has always worked great. but yea i guess ill check the power supplys as well.
 

broxma

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2009
Messages
911
Location
San Antonio Tx
What kind of ignition are you running? Are you blowing any fuses say anything on the positive terminal side of the battery? What are the CEL codes for?

/brox
 
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