Does mounting the battery in the trunk pose any hazard?Batteries emit hydrogen and just wondering if its safe especially if one has stereo equiptment in there.
Crucible
Crucible
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i noticed no problem with all my stereo equip back there. just make sure that battery is mounted in a box in case it were to burst...
Batteries must be securely mounted to the frame or body (on unibody). If you ever plan to run the 1320, it will need to be mounted in an "NHRA approved, sealed, battery box". That box must vent to atmosphere with a seperate vent line. If you're gonna move the battery to the trunk, I'd follow those guidelines. I know I wouldn't want Hydrogen gas roaming my interior. Make my bling bling go bang bang. Sorry, had to do it...
Ian M
Well-known member
It dosent have to be mounted in a box,unless there isnt a firewall between the trunk and the passenger compartment. Without a firewall,it must be in a NHRA approved sealed externally vented box-like the blue one Moroso sells in Summit and Jegs.
The black marine boxes with the strap arent totally sealed and arent NHRA approved,but for a street car or daily driver Id run one to at least protect from acid damage from stuff you have in the trunk flopping on it or around it,not to mention the battery exploding. For a true sealed vented box,you'll need something similar to the Moroso box.
The black marine boxes with the strap arent totally sealed and arent NHRA approved,but for a street car or daily driver Id run one to at least protect from acid damage from stuff you have in the trunk flopping on it or around it,not to mention the battery exploding. For a true sealed vented box,you'll need something similar to the Moroso box.
quote:Originally posted by Ian M:
The black marine boxes with the strap arent totally sealed and arent NHRA approved,but for a street car or daily driver Id run one to at least protect from acid damage from stuff you have in the trunk flopping on it or around it,not to mention the battery exploding. Yeah i just use the marine box. Plus it makes it look a bit cleaner in the trunk.
The black marine boxes with the strap arent totally sealed and arent NHRA approved,but for a street car or daily driver Id run one to at least protect from acid damage from stuff you have in the trunk flopping on it or around it,not to mention the battery exploding. Yeah i just use the marine box. Plus it makes it look a bit cleaner in the trunk.
the summit boxes are fine for us because we have a trunk. If you have a trunk your box doesn't have to be sealed per NHRA
even though our trunk has the pass through door (for ski's or whatever)? I thought this presented a potential problem for 1/4 tech.
Also the battery shut-off tends to be an issue with the trunk mount (except at the "relaxed" tracks with a lesser inspection, so I've heard)
Also the battery shut-off tends to be an issue with the trunk mount (except at the "relaxed" tracks with a lesser inspection, so I've heard)
PJGross
Well-known member
Just read the NHRA rules on this topic. You must have a firewall separating the trunk area from the cabin to avoid using a vented battery box.
Firewall can be made of aluminum or steel (different thickness requirements) and the the battery hold downs must be 3/8" dia min and if it uses J hooks they must be welded closed.
The important thing I got from it was a few inexpensive pieces of metal to make a firewall would allow more flexibility in the battery mounting area (plus look cool if I get a couple sheets of stainless through work)
Don't forget your exterior activated kill switch if you're trying to pass NHRA tech! It must be labeled and must kill the car. Haven't decided how to wire mine yet so the computers and radio don't get their power cut but the car dies instantly. I don't want SAFC settings, fuel trims, or my radio presets disappearing all the time!
-PJ Gross
Firewall can be made of aluminum or steel (different thickness requirements) and the the battery hold downs must be 3/8" dia min and if it uses J hooks they must be welded closed.
The important thing I got from it was a few inexpensive pieces of metal to make a firewall would allow more flexibility in the battery mounting area (plus look cool if I get a couple sheets of stainless through work)
Don't forget your exterior activated kill switch if you're trying to pass NHRA tech! It must be labeled and must kill the car. Haven't decided how to wire mine yet so the computers and radio don't get their power cut but the car dies instantly. I don't want SAFC settings, fuel trims, or my radio presets disappearing all the time!
-PJ Gross
Wire it to the ignition coil. Therefore it will kill the car but not kill the power. That is the best way to do it.
You could also wire a pig tail fuse from the battery to the side of the kill switch going to the rest of the car.When you kill the switch yould have a path still going through the fuse to keep radio,etc still powered.If you tried to start the car the 5 or 10 amp fuse would blow before the car starts(then you would lose power to your radio,etc
Ian M
Well-known member
Technically,the kill switch should kill ALL electrical functions of the car. I dont know if any tech official would ever check radios and such though. Most of the time,the tech guys here havent even asked to even see the battery install or kill switch. Another advantage of having a car that looks like a 17 sec ride..
PJGross
Well-known member
Thanks for the suggestions. I've never actually teched a car with battery in boot, just looked up the rules, so I didn't know if they made you show them the kill switch worked or not. Yeah, I should have been consistent, rules do say all power.
Tomorrow new engine buildup will run (fingers crossed). I will try to get pics and post that I actually have a running GVR4 after 2 years of being down. The kill switch won't be installed for a while, though!
-PJ
Tomorrow new engine buildup will run (fingers crossed). I will try to get pics and post that I actually have a running GVR4 after 2 years of being down. The kill switch won't be installed for a while, though!
-PJ
Here at Bandimere, home of the Mile High Nationals, they definitely check for a master cutoff switch if the battery has been relocated to the trunk. What's more, they also check for functionality. They let me run anyhow since my car's only in the 13's, but I was told to get it fixed before next time.
The "proper" way to do it is to run the alternator wire all the way back to the battery side of the cutoff switch; otherwise, the alternator will supply enough juice to keep the car running when the battery is disconnected. I knew this beforehand, but ran out of time before my first track day of the season.
So much for saving weight with my gel cell...
The "proper" way to do it is to run the alternator wire all the way back to the battery side of the cutoff switch; otherwise, the alternator will supply enough juice to keep the car running when the battery is disconnected. I knew this beforehand, but ran out of time before my first track day of the season.
So much for saving weight with my gel cell...
