Trans problem...

[SleepinGVR4]

This happened almost over night. I woke up this morning and could barely get my car into gear. First the worst, third is bad also. I had to use second and fourth the most to get it home. My car didn't really give any notice that something was wrong, IE. noise, vibration, etc. I thought it was kind of shifting weird the night prior but it wasn't like I couldn't get it into any of the gears.

Master cylinder is almost new. Slave has probably 20K miles. The hydraulic system isn't leaking and neither is my trans.

Clutch fork doesn't appear to be broken. Slave cylinder is moving.

I guess it could be the pivot ball or the TOB, but I figured if it was the TOB it would of made some noise or something.

I don't know, anyone have any ideas before I pull the trans.

 

[Rausch]

Cables all kosher? Can you shift into 1st and 3rd with the car off? Have you tried to shift into those gears at the trans itself? (With the car off of course.)

 

[fivestardsm]

I would suggest checking the crank for end play. It sounds like you might be a victim of crank walk. These are the same symptons that I had with one of mine that crank walked.

Secondly, Myabe check the clutch pedal throw. You might have the common worn out arm on the pedal assembly.

Crank walk discussion thread

Checking for crankwalk

Repair for worn out pedal assembly arm

Assembly repair 2

Part #'s and break down

Good pictures of the failure point of the assembly arm


Hope this helps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[SleepinGVR4]

The cables are almost new. They need adjustment but still never kept me from shifting. Yes I can hit all the gears with the car off. I haven't tried to shift it at the trans yet.

It better not be crank walk. I have a built motor with no more than 50K miles and zero hard driving.

 

[autobahntom]

I bet it is number 3 in the list above. The clutch pedal assembly has play. Easy way to check-grab the clutch pedal with one hand and the 'arm' that is on the other end of the pedal cross rod (this is pictured in the link above). If you have movement between the two; then that is your problem. I just went thru all this with mine. You have to drop the column down to get the pedal assembly out (probably 90 minutes you can do the whole job start to finish). Good info on this board!
Tom

 

[rgeier11]

Check if your transmission-to-engine bolts are tight. I had similar issues with that problem when mine loosened up.

 

[fivestardsm]

^^ That is a good point. I dont know how I forgot about that one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif

 

[donniekak]

Quoting SleepinGVR4:
The cables are almost new. They need adjustment but still never kept me from shifting. Yes I can hit all the gears with the car off. I haven't tried to shift it at the trans yet.

It better not be crank walk. I have a built motor with no more than 50K miles and zero hard driving.


Why a built engine then? A forged piston setup built for big power will actually wear faster than the stock piston setup. Forged pistons require a larger piston to cylinder wall clearance, and can get some pretty bad scuffing during cold startup. Built engines aren't designed to run 200,000 miles, they are made to handle higher stress.

 

[SleepinGVR4]

The trans bolts are all tight.

Quoting donniekak :
Why a built engine then? A forged piston setup built for big power will actually wear faster than the stock piston setup. Forged pistons require a larger piston to cylinder wall clearance, and can get some pretty bad scuffing during cold startup. Built engines aren't designed to run 200,000 miles, they are made to handle higher stress.



Yes yes I know all this. Because I've had plans to put down power with the car and just haven't been able to get it to run right.

Let keep this about my trans and not my engine. Thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[1990ggsxnj]

Have you tried having someone push the clutch pedal in and checking that you have enough travel at the slave? Even if there is movement it may not be enough, though that's usually the case after the line has been opened. Also, it was mentioned to check your pedal assembly. I've seen them go bad real quick with higher clamping force clutches since it requires more force on the pedal. Have you checked this? It's common enough to suspect.

 

[SleepinGVR4]

Well its definitely something with the clutch pedal. I removed the clutch lever arm and inspected it. It doesn't appear to be worn.

But If I grab the lever and hold it in place I can move the clutch pedal back and forth if I really crank on it.
Before I inspected the clutch lever arm I could move the clutch pedal alot easier. I tightened the bolt back down are hard as I could.

Its definitely not fixed but its better.

 

[4thStroke]

I had a similar experience. It was very tough for me to shift into any forward gears, being 1st, 3rd, and 5th. Sounds like a linkage issue, right? Mine too was all of a sudden. If I put it in 2nd, then I could get into into 1st and row through the gears most of the time, usually hitting a small snag. I was hoping for a cable adjustment was all that was needed to fix it.

Later that night, the tranny let go. Intermediate shaft, 3rd, and the center diff were all trashed. Granted, the car was at 530whp at the time and had a pretty brutal last 3000 miles.

When I put the new tranny in, nothing was adjusted and it shifted fine.

Not tryin to scare you, your problem is probably not as big of a problem, but Im trying to get the point across that something that seems simple may not be so simple.

Good luck!

 

[fivestardsm]

I had another thought.. I had an issue with the clips that hold the cables on to the shifter bracket that mounts to the transmission. The clip kept popping off because it was sprung. Easy enough to check, just look at your cables on the trans and see it they are secyre.

There was an issue with another car that was caused by the bracket being loose at the 2 bolts that either held the bracket to the trans, or that held the 2 pieces of the bracket together. Again, easy enough to check.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

if u narrow it down to the pedal area, should look into just buying new complete assembly from shep. they are only $120+core