You really don't need it. The trick is to install the hydraulic tensioner with the pin in. Use a socket wrench on the tensioner and a long "L" shaped allen wrench that will fit in the tensioner pulley hole. As you rotate the allen wrench clockwise, it will rest against the socket, giving you leverage. Look at roughly how the two tensioner pulley holes are aligned before you dissemble it. You want to get the front-most tensioner hole about 10PM to 11PM (the holes should end up about 45 degrees to the front of the car or maybe a little past that).
Someone chime in and confirm the angle of this for me, it's been a while...
Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. Remove the allen wrench and socket wrench. Pull the pin, and rotate the crank 6 turns (to realign all the timing marks). Wait 15 minutes for the hydraulic tensioner to settle. If you can put the pin back in the tensioner(even tightly), its correct. I believe a 5/32" drillbit inserted between the hydraulic tensioner and the tensioner arm is the correct spacing.
If if is not right, simply start over. Do it as many times as you need until you feel comfortable and repeatable. When you have it right, the pin will insert back in the hole (it may not make it through the back hole).
Tip: Save that pin, it always comes in handy to have an extra.
Here is a picture illustrating what I am talking about with using the allen wrench and socket to tension. This is the pre-tighten position.
That being said, here is a link to the timing tools on JNZ. Not OEM, but it probably works just the same and is cheaper.
Tools on JNZ Tuning