Swapped in HKS cams, now no compression / Cooling issue [BOTH RESOLVED]

[GSTwithPSI]

Lol. So that would mean they aren't made anymore then, no?

 

[coyotes]

you can buy one for an exorbitant fee.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

^I see what you did there /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[coyotes]

You made your heat shield, you could probably make your own with relatively little trouble.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Got some more seat time in the car today. It's a little hotter than it was yesterday, and more humid as well. The highest temp I saw on the 45 min drive was 206, and that was at idle. Highway cruise temps stayed consistently around 193-196. I think it's safe to say I fixed the problem by swapping out the Euro grille. The cooling system works great now that I'm getting sufficient airflow. I'm really glad I finally figured this ordeal out.

I'm still suffering from pretty crappy heat soak. At idle, my IATs jump up to almost 130 degrees. On the highway today, as long as I was moving 55+ mph, they stayed around 95 degrees. As soon as I slowed down though, my IATs would shoot up almost immediately. I'm going to get that manifold blanked ordered, and hope that really helps. I need to get this worked out before it starts getting cool outside. At that point, I won't be able to tell if I'm actually making any real progress on this heat soak issue.

I also bought one of those zip tie mounting kits for one of my slim fans. Currently, I'm only running the stock puller fan. I'm going to add one of my Mishimoto slim fans on the driver side of the radiator to help keep the temps down more at idle. It sucks, because the heat shield I made makes it so I'm unable to use the sweet Mishimoto fan shroud and dual slim fan setup I have. I'll have to settle for a compromise for the time being. I'm going to wire up the second fan to one of the ECMlink outputs and set the activation point at around 203 below 30 mph. I'll post up some pics of the install a little later.

 

[turbowop]

Even with my 2g mani and OE heatshield and hood vents, I get heatsoak when stopped in traffic. I don't think there is much you can do to combat that without some airflow moving through the engine bay. I was seeing IAT's around 119F last time I was in stop/go traffic. As soon as the car starts moving, it drops to ambient.

I still have the stock pusher fan on my car. But I left its wiring alone, so it only comes on with AC or if the temps get waaaaay too hot, which has yet to happen. I might change my ECMlink fan control wire to trip both fan relays for more efficient cooling.

 

[coyotes]

come on, winter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif with the cool temps we had last night my car felt really good. Wasn't logging but the car really loved that nice cool air.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Thanks for the info, Mark. I didn't really have anything to compare to for a baseline for normal IATs, so I appreciate the input. 125ish just seemed high. I guess it's pretty close to normal in actuality, though?

One thing I was thinking about was the IAT reading itself. I'm still running the stock MAF, which uses an integrated IAT. So, the temp readings I'm getting are pre-intercooler. It's great for checking my under hood temps, but I'm curious as to what kind of temps I'm really seeing at the throttle body.

 

[92_talon_awd]

Glad you got it sorted out man. Now you need one of these, I've always wanted to install one. Might do it finally on the GSX. click

 

[turbowop]

Yeah, my temp readings are via the GM IAT that I use for SD. My sensor is mounted a few inches down from the throttle body, post intercooler obviously.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Well, I just wanted to post back here and say I solved my cooling issues for certain.

The core issue was that I wasn't getting the airflow through the radiator required to properly cool the car down. Initially, I had the FMIC, oil cooler, A/C condenser, all installed in front of the radiator. I also had the "Euro" grille installed, which effectively cuts the grill cross section in half, hindering airflow. Lastly, I had a Mishimoto dual 12" radiator fan and shroud setup installed for cooling at idle. Somehow, the shroud/fans or both were hindering airflow as well.

The recipe for cool engine temps wound up being removal of both the Euro grille and the Mishimoto fan/shroud setup. I tried multiple combinations of parts, only to find that neither the Euro grille nor the Mishimoto fan/shroud setup (together or separately) can be used. I even installed the Mishimoto fan/shroud setup with the Eterna grille, and still experienced higher than normal engine temps.

My current config is as follows:

-A single stock puller fan wired up to function as stock
-180* Stant Superstat
-60/40 water/antifreeze mix (plus a bottle of WaterWetter)
-New stock OEM replacement radiator
-13lb Stant radiator cap
-Eterna grille
-Hood vents open
-FMIC, 90 oil cooler, A/C condenser still in place
-DIY heat shield for the FP manifold
-Heat wrapped hot side IC pipe

The above combination FINALLY solved my cooling issues. Again, all I really did was remove the Euro grille and swap the Mishimoto fan/shroud setup for the stocker puller fan. On the highway, I'm seeing a consistent 193-196. At idle, I'm typically sitting anywhere from 196-206. I Haven't seen anything above 206 thus far. I'm finally happy with the temps I'm seeing, and am still planning on adding the manifold blanket to finish things off. I'm also planning to add another small 10" puller fan opposite of the stock fan, for a little extra airflow at idle.

I miss my Euro grill already, but the Eterna grill looks good as well /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[coyotes]

car looks good as f***

 

[FlyingEagle]

Which company made the radiator replacement that you have?

Product number?

How thick is the core?

Is it a two row or wide single row when looking through the radiator cap neck?

Happy to hear your are seeing reasonable temperatures now.

Always make me nervous not having a second fan in my car right now.

I don't use the AC except on the highway, and keep the car out of stop and go traffic if at all possible, just for the reasons of heat soak/not enough transfer toward and
out of the engine bay.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

It's a Spectra OEM replacement. Here's one I found online: click click

I'm not sure of the exact thickness, I'd have to measure it to see. I'd also have to check and see if it's single or two row, but I'd go with single if I had to guess. The only reason I got it was because I was in a rush to get to the Shootout, and that's all I could get in a day's notice. I would opt for a nicer Koyo unit if I had to do it over again. This unit has plastic end tanks, which I'm not a huge fan of. It gets the job done though, so I can't complain. This part should be available at your local AutoZone for around $130 bucks.


Quoting coyotes:
car looks good as f***


Thanks, dude /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[coyotes]

I feel like I got the last koyo radiator for our car out there, I haven't seen any since and I've looked around a lot for people.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Isn't this the one you got? click

 

[badams]

Looks a lot better without all those lights anyways... you aren't trying to investigate mines so not sure why you need them......

 

[coyotes]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Isn't this the one you got? click



Hey look, there it is. Luckily I paid nowhere near that.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting badams:
Looks a lot better without all those lights anyways... you aren't trying to investigate mines so not sure why you need them......



Becauz rally racecar, bro.



Quoting coyotes:
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Isn't this the one you got? click



Hey look, there it is. Luckily I paid nowhere near that.



What'd you pay for yours?

 

[coyotes]

$150 off ebay as well. Part number on the radiator is koyo c0233.