Stock Head bolts and Gasket

Hi guys what HP or PSI are these good for?? If a go FP Green or 20g do I have to change the studs and gasket also. Thank you.

 

they are head bolts if they are stock. not studs. I would go with arp studs and a cometic MLS headgasket. Just got some for my toyota highlander.. lol

 

[frank1]

Quoting mac515:
Hi guys what HP or PSI are these good for?? If a go FP Green or 20g do I have to change the studs and gasket also. Thank you.



It also all depends in how much boost you will run
I would just go with the arp studs just to be in the safe side

 

[91GSR]

i agree. if u r rebuilding u might as well get the good stuff. i have read that the mitsu MLS gasket is good for up to like 350 hp tho.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

I have a brand new cometic I will let go for the right price. PM me. I didn't see any of these guys mention it but you have to deck/mill the block and the head if you are going to run a cometic. I would never even install a head with out putting ARP's in there.

 

Hey thanx for the catch on the bolts. .LOL I was think of something eles. Anyway I'm going to look to get pretty close to 400whp 375 or so 25-26 PSI.. I really dont want to rebuild the whoile motor. Atleast not right now maybe later. So could I get away with just head bolts and no gasket?

 

[Lonewolf64]

Completely stock motors have made that kind of horsepower. Just remember that you shouldn't even think about making 1 horsepower over stock levels before you complete all the necessary maintenance on your car.

 

This is true.. Only thing left is timing belt and water pump. Plugs have been changed, along with oil, radiator, and rebuilt tranny and t case going in as we speak.

 

[SmoothCustomer]

That's going to be pushing it on a stock gasket. It will work but it may not last real long on that kind of boost. If you ever have the timing belt off for any reason at all DO head studs and the gasket, it's really not too difficult. I could maybe do $85 shipped for the stock bore bnib cometic gasket /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif They go for 95 new.

 

Cool thanx I'll let you know there is a place near me that I want to try. I have heard realy good things from about them.

 

OEM head gaskets are the best you can buy IMHO. I have ran oem composites on all of my builds with no issues, but the stock head bolts are an issue with some decent power since they will stretch and will in turn cause your head to lift. I would recommend a oem composite HG from Mitsubishi, and a set of arp head studs.

 

Quoting 91GSR:
i have read that the mitsu MLS gasket is good for up to like 350 hp tho.



/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

I am not sure about having to deck the block when using a cometic gasket. It being an iron block they do not warp all that often. +1 for checking it. All you need is a machinists straight edge which are not that expensive and feeler guages or if you know what you are doing you can just use the straight edge and a flashlight. if it shows light past the head and the edge you need to resurface. I would use a .004 feeler gauge and if it has more than that warpage definatley get it resurfaced

 

[4thStroke]

Quoting 91GSR:
i have read that the mitsu MLS gasket is good for up to like 350 hp tho.



I made 430whp and seeing spikes up to 38psi and had no issues with the Mitsu MLS gasket and ARPs.

If you want to spend the money, the Fel-Pro is about the best head gasket out there. I know of a shop that no longer o-rings heads and uses this gasket instead.

 

Ok so what I'm gathering which could be wrong. LOL Is that I can just do head bolts and be fine for 27 PSI that would be the max I go.. 22-27 PSI.

 

I'd probably still do the HG at the same time. Mitsu MLS or Cometic. ExtremePSI was doing a special on a Cometic and ARP studs for $155, might still be going on

 

Thanx I'm accually looking at a turbo from them a Blouch 20G?? Started a thread on it. Never heard of them before and the turbo looks like a big 16G. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[throughfaith323]

posted about the turbo and i say get ARPs...simple to put in if you have your belt already off. i think it says it in directions, but just make sure you use the lube on the washers when torquing them so little friction as possible interferes with the amount of torque you put on the nuts(also torque them in the right pattern, and your supposed to do like 25lbs then 50lbs then 80lbs or something like that so its put on even). Mitsu gasket should be fine but since extreme is offering the package deal you might as well take that since you'll prob spend more money if you bought the OEM gasket and then ARP studs seperate.

 

Thanx for the post about the turbo, Thats what I thought it was.

 

[CarRacer]

If your motor still has the original stock bolts, replace them with ARP studs. It'd be smart to replace them anyways, but the studs price is a wash against bolts so why not upgrade.

It's my impression that the stock composite gasket isn't limited by power levels that much. It just lessens your room for error on your tune. The Mitsu MLS is far stronger and resists knock and such, so it widens your window for tuning.

A composite gasket will also conform to an uneven head and block surface better as well. If you're not machining the surfaces, don't get a MLS.