The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.

Starting the N/A to turbo, auto to 5 speed conversion

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Well, it's started. Here's some beginning pix, and I'll keep adding more as I get further along.
Before:

Parts needed, and a side by side comparison of the pedal assys

Shifter assy with side by side comparison of vr4 shifter and dsm shifter (dsm shifter installed in pic)

Shifter assy with a little blingage since I'm gonna cut out a stainless plate instead of a boot.

Hole to use for pattern for clutch master cylinder.

Engine bay before:


Sorry about the pic quality, these are scanned. I'm gonna be getting a digital cam soon. I will add more pix and tips as I continue to progress.

Here's more:


The manual shifter is a direct/bolt-in replacement for the auto shifter.



 
Last edited:

mistaVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
4,768
Location
Boulder, CO
Thats quite a project man! Can't wait to see the progress. You have any pics of that shifter plate yet /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
No, havn't even drawn it up yet, but I should be able to get that tonight, and then maybe cut one out this week.
 

hey man when ur done you should post a full parts list and tutorial on how you did this. i am planning on doing the same thing hopefully
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
I can put a parts list for the tranny swap:

*Pedal assy from vr4 or other manual galant
*Shift linkages from same
*Clutch master cylinder/line/slave cylinder (autos have the mount above the tranny
where the soft/hard lines meet)
*Shifter assy (from what I have looked at so far, it is a direct bolt in replacement,
I'll investigate this more though)
*Manual tranny/clutch
*Consoles look a little different where the shifter comes through, but it may work
**Radiators are a little different, auto has trans fluid lines. They may be interchangeable, but since I have the one out of the vr4 too, I'm using it.

-- There will no doubt be more, and I will add to this as I go along as well.
 

I did a auto-manual convo on my old E39A, the shifter linkages go through a completely different place to the auto, once you have the auto trans out(the 2nd mosy frustrating part of the whole job) It's easiest to drill/cut the new hole.

Installing The pedal boxes are the worst part of the whole job, lotsa upside down, and knuckle scraping...
 

Kenny your LOCO, maybe I'm just lazy but I would of started out with a Manual to begin with, there cheap anyways, and that is just too much work for me, but if you have the free time go for it.
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Ohhh, lets see. I got the GS for free, in great shape other than the engine, which I have a couple of. The reason I"m converting, is cuz the engine is bad, and the tranny is starting to slip, so I opted to put the manual in since I have all the parts anyway. Plus, it will help others decide not to, uh , I mean if they want to do it. I love doing this kind of stuff, and it gets me more in tune with my tuner self. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

good for you. its a big and avoidable project to undertake, but it will be well worth it i'm sure.

i can't wait to see the stainless shift boot. are you going to maching the 1g shifter arm to be the same diameter throughout? i think that would looke best but i dought the arm is on solid peice.

i know it would looke a lot better with a relatively thin arm and a ball shift knob. or something that would flow into the arm.

i don't mean to overcomplicate something small. you have bigger things to worry about but its certainly something to consider.

i'm just trying to visualize what would look best. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

Good luck with that project, I remember when we did the mx6 atx-mtx that sh*t took 12 hours straight /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
If I try to make the shifter thinner, I'll just make a completely new shifter> Might look into that anyway,, one piece, one diameter out of stainless or alum, with a matching knob and cover plate.
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Here's where the magic is going to happen:


My long term project:



Notice any galant parts in there? There's enough in that garage to make a whole car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Last edited:

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,986
Location
Michigan
You already have a car with a big "hole" in it, why make another? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
That car is gonna be my project, and won't see sunlight till I'm satisfied. It's not dead, it's hibernating. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Well, I picked up a tranny at the junk yard for $65 (can't beat that), and put it on the transplant engine. FYI: If you get a fwd tranny, don't expect the awd clutch to work without some grindage. I'm reusing my vr4 clutch as it has less than 3000 miles on it, and when I put the tranny on, I could not figure out why it wouldn't turn over. Well, after three times pulling it off/on, I realized that it was rubbing at the back near the shaft input hole. NOT ANYMORE!!! hehe Grinder fixed that. I'll get some more pix up tomorrow.
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
Well, old engine/tranny is pulled, auto shifter and pedal assy is pulled, and the manual shifter/cables/pedal assy is all installed. It was actually pretty easy to install it all. The hole where the clutch pedal lever goes through, is cutout in the firewall mat, you just have to drill the holes. The hole where the manual cables go through, has punchouts where the cables would be stock. All you have to do is drill where the holes are. I'll get pix up this weekend of what I'm talking about. Now, time to transplant the engine/trans, finish putting the dash pieces in, run the i/c and piping, and the exhaust, and she'll be ready to kill some hondas.
*FYI: the gs does not have the drivers side axle bolted to the block like the vr4. It just goes straight from the hub to the tranny, no carrier. I suppose they put it on the vr4 for the extra hp it produces? I'm gonna go ahead and put vr4 axles in just to be safe.

**Anyone know of issues I may have with the stock GS fuel pump? I guess I can check caps to see if it's the same. I sure don't want to climb under the car to change it.
 
Last edited:

Wait did you grind the clutch or the flywheel? Clutches should be interchangable but flywheels are not. Also it's probably not balanced now if you ground a rotating part.
Just want to make sure nothing blows up on ya.
 

14u2nV

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
9,398
Location
Agency/St. Joe, MO
I ground some of the aluminum of the bell, NOT the clutch. I'm not that dumb/brave. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I made sure I didn't take out to much in one spot, so it should hold up wonderfully.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Recent Classifieds Listings

Top