strokin4dr
Well-known member
Timing off a bit can give you 90 psi on the other cylinders. Check the timing before ripping it apart. Rings may be fine. Good luck.
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Robbies 1137/2000 build
- Thread starterMdlimy
- Start date
Mdlimy
Well-known member
Dropped a bit of oil in the cylinders and compression came up to 125psi, rings are toast.
I am going to pull the motor tonight and start stripping it for disassembly.
I have ordered
Npr 2g Pistons to bump the compression a bit
Arp head, rod and main studs
Felpro headgasket and block gasket set
Gates timing belt kit
I will wait to see if I need to oversize bearings before ordering them.
Should I do a bse kit?
I am going to pull the motor tonight and start stripping it for disassembly.
I have ordered
Npr 2g Pistons to bump the compression a bit
Arp head, rod and main studs
Felpro headgasket and block gasket set
Gates timing belt kit
I will wait to see if I need to oversize bearings before ordering them.
Should I do a bse kit?
Last edited:
MellowVR4
Well-known member
I would since your in their..
Mdlimy
Well-known member
They seem cheap enough, I just wasn't sure if it's recommended to.
Evan has been giving me tremendous amounts of advise and i seem to have arrived apon a goal of about 420awhp.
I have had good past experience with the Hahn race craft hybrid td05/6 20g turbo and I know it is capable of reaching my goal on pump gas with water/meth. I am not going to spend the time in building a manifold for a ball bearing turbo at this time, I would like to just run a cast manifold with a mhi turbo for the time being. I am also considering a b16g off an evo... What's everyone's opinion?
Evan has been giving me tremendous amounts of advise and i seem to have arrived apon a goal of about 420awhp.
I have had good past experience with the Hahn race craft hybrid td05/6 20g turbo and I know it is capable of reaching my goal on pump gas with water/meth. I am not going to spend the time in building a manifold for a ball bearing turbo at this time, I would like to just run a cast manifold with a mhi turbo for the time being. I am also considering a b16g off an evo... What's everyone's opinion?
prove_it
Well-known member
Quoting MellowVR4:
I would since your in their..
*there
I would since your in their..
*there
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting Mdlimy:
Dropped a bit of oil in the cylinders and compression came up to 125psi, rings are toast.
I am going to pull the motor tonight and start stripping it for disassembly.
I have ordered
Npr 2g Pistons to bump the compression a bit
Arp head studs and arp rod bolts
Felpro headgasket and block gasket set
Gates timing belt kit
I will wait to see if I need to oversize bearings before ordering them.
Should I do a bse kit?
Just so you're aware, the pin boss of the 1G rod (21mm) has to be machined larger to accept the 2G wrist pin (22mm). Also, you'll need to check the main bore alignment with the ARP main studs installed and torqued. The ARP hardware can cause distortion from there the mains were with OEM hardware.
I would strongly recommend a BSE kit. Be sure to source an OEM stub shaft with the oil groove present. You can get the whole OEM kit from pretty much any reputable DSM parts outlet/vendor.
Quoting MellowVR4:
I would since your in their..
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I c wat u did their..
Dropped a bit of oil in the cylinders and compression came up to 125psi, rings are toast.
I am going to pull the motor tonight and start stripping it for disassembly.
I have ordered
Npr 2g Pistons to bump the compression a bit
Arp head studs and arp rod bolts
Felpro headgasket and block gasket set
Gates timing belt kit
I will wait to see if I need to oversize bearings before ordering them.
Should I do a bse kit?
Just so you're aware, the pin boss of the 1G rod (21mm) has to be machined larger to accept the 2G wrist pin (22mm). Also, you'll need to check the main bore alignment with the ARP main studs installed and torqued. The ARP hardware can cause distortion from there the mains were with OEM hardware.
I would strongly recommend a BSE kit. Be sure to source an OEM stub shaft with the oil groove present. You can get the whole OEM kit from pretty much any reputable DSM parts outlet/vendor.
Quoting MellowVR4:
I would since your in their..
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I c wat u did their..
Last edited:
Mdlimy
Well-known member
I am aware of that, not a big deal, and well worth it for the off boost response i will gain and decrease in spool time, 8.5:1 with boost is pretty mild compared to some of the turbo honda motors I have played with /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Is this what i would need for the bse?
click
Is this what i would need for the bse?
click
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
yes
Mdlimy
Well-known member
Picked up some stock evo 8 suspension and tein springs for 240 bucks, that should hold me over until im ready for coilovers.
Where is the best place to buy replacement suspension and steering components? i need control arms and tie rods, sway bar end links at the least...
The motor came out tonight, not going to tear it down until I pressure wash it, I will do that tomorrow after work, then disassemble and inspect.
Where is the best place to buy replacement suspension and steering components? i need control arms and tie rods, sway bar end links at the least...
The motor came out tonight, not going to tear it down until I pressure wash it, I will do that tomorrow after work, then disassemble and inspect.
Mdlimy
Well-known member
edit:
Hmmm lots of controversy on this subject, i can understand what jack is saying but like everyone else i have a hard time believing the balance shaft can counter all those problems with a tiny rubber belt... maybe ill stick with what works, ditch it.
Hmmm lots of controversy on this subject, i can understand what jack is saying but like everyone else i have a hard time believing the balance shaft can counter all those problems with a tiny rubber belt... maybe ill stick with what works, ditch it.
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thomcasey
Well-known member
I kept mine in my 4g63t swapped colt, really like the smooth revving with the shafts. Obviously, there is a reason for the shafts, Porsche even licensed the " silent shafts" from Mitsubishi for the 924-944 4-bangers. Though the 4g61 did not need them (maybe as displacement rises the vibrations are greater??) so the oil pump shaft elimination "stub shaft" is available for our use. I have run both my Talon without and the Colt with, only noticeable difference I found was the smoothness. It is a bit of a more raw feel with them eliminated, but I never had clutch issues. Maybe because I made sure they were setup correctly?
My current built for Gretchen (1025) has the BSE. Though, I am using BC 272's, so I am sure the balance shaft may not do any good to counter the vibration having changed from stock cams.
My current built for Gretchen (1025) has the BSE. Though, I am using BC 272's, so I am sure the balance shaft may not do any good to counter the vibration having changed from stock cams.
ApexHunter
Well-known member
^ I speculate that it was, at least in large part, more necessary with the bigger displacement motors. And those Porsche fours were huge (the 924, that was a VW motor, not sure on that one).
I had a 2G piston/1G rod motor sans balance shafts in 1951. That engine went through the ringer and never let me down. The rebuild was approaching 50k hard miles by the time i sold it, still felt smooth as a swiss watch at high RPM. Machine work, assembly, lack of tolerance stack all come into play a great deal too.
Oh, almost forgot, I used Ingalls tie rod parts click and click, they were fine.
OK, last edit. OP, good luck here. As others have said, the car appears to be in good hands. That turbo Duc is sick. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
I had a 2G piston/1G rod motor sans balance shafts in 1951. That engine went through the ringer and never let me down. The rebuild was approaching 50k hard miles by the time i sold it, still felt smooth as a swiss watch at high RPM. Machine work, assembly, lack of tolerance stack all come into play a great deal too.
Oh, almost forgot, I used Ingalls tie rod parts click and click, they were fine.
OK, last edit. OP, good luck here. As others have said, the car appears to be in good hands. That turbo Duc is sick. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
Last edited:
Mdlimy
Well-known member
Thank you both for the informative posts, I really am liking this forum, very active posting members through out the day and always knowledgeable mature posts, honestly one of the best forums i have posted on!
I know I will end up with some 272 cams in the future and will want to rev the crap out of the motor so I will just do the bse as many others have, if I loose a bit of smoothness in return for reliability I am OK with that.
I ended up ordering Moog ball joints, tie rod ends and end links, I have had good luck with them in the past and for the price I am willing to try them again.
I'm excited to tear into this motor tonight!
I know I will end up with some 272 cams in the future and will want to rev the crap out of the motor so I will just do the bse as many others have, if I loose a bit of smoothness in return for reliability I am OK with that.
I ended up ordering Moog ball joints, tie rod ends and end links, I have had good luck with them in the past and for the price I am willing to try them again.
I'm excited to tear into this motor tonight!
Vibrations do increase with displacement. The Porsche motors were 2.5 liter. You don't see 4 cylinders that large usually for those reasons.
thomcasey
Well-known member
Shoot, 2.5 liter? They went from 2.5l to 2.7l to 3.0l. A 3.0l 4-banger is quite the cannon
Oh yeah, forgot about that increase over the years.
Mdlimy
Well-known member
Well the garage is a disaster, but the motor is torn down. Cylinders look good, rod and main bearings not so much. Head has atleast 2bent valves, possibly more. Pistons arrive tommorow, I will drop the block and head off at the machine shop on Friday.
Mdlimy
Well-known member
Well today I found out the car already had a big 16g /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
