removing water return pipe

[paul j]

I have tried everything to remove return line from water inlet in order to remove turbo. Is this a common problem? Any suggestions on why the steel fitting will not unscrew? I am thinking I will have to cut it off and replace both pieces.

 

[mooserage]

Are you talking about this fitting? What have you tried? Spayed it with penetrant? Is it pretty rusty?

 

[paul j]

Yes that is it and not rusty at all that I can see. Sprayed with PB Blaster, heated cast stub with small butane burner, heated with MAP to about 700*F and put ice cube on hex. Flare wrench is rounding the nut. I have been searching and saw if you heat one part and spray penetrating oil, or even water on the cooler part (the fluid makes it cooler also) the fluid will migrate to the hot part. Maybe my ice cube attempt worked a bit, I have not checked since it cooled completely. I am also going to try ATF and acetone mix as it gets good reviews. Also vinegar is good for rust.
I do not think it is rust. I had the engine built a couple years ago by a member that is not active now, BigLady112. It has been in my garage since then. It is possible he cross threaded it or used sealer. I think I had them separated when I broke the engine down years ago. I decided to remove 16g and fp exhaust when I decided the turbo/exhaust manifold were too large and it would be easier to remove them before it went in the car. I had to use a 3' cheater to remove 3 of the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold. I have not been able to get the 4th one loose. I have concerns about the whole engine assembly now.
I am going to use the heat and putting ATF/acetone on threads process many times for the next few days.

 

[mooserage]

Wow, yeah that sounds like it may have had sealant or something added to the threads, or over-tightened. Its a flare fitting, so it really shouldn't be that tight. It sounds like you're doing all the right things, as long as you're turning it the right direction, I would've expected it to be loose by now. Good luck with the ATF/Acetone, hope that works for you. Maybe some others can offer some wisdom.

 

[diambo4life]

Just cut it and use heater hose to merge the two pieces if you need it. That's what I always did as it made it easier to remove/reinstall the turbo. That was eons ago because I don't remember the last time I ran a water cooled turbo. Must be 15+ years.

PS: Try using locking vice grips if you have the room.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I had the engine built a couple years ago by a member that is not active now, BigLady112. It has been in my garage since then. It is possible he cross threaded it or used sealer. I think I had them separated when I broke the engine down years ago. I decided to remove 16g and fp exhaust when I decided the turbo/exhaust manifold were too large and it would be easier to remove them before it went in the car. I had to use a 3' cheater to remove 3 of the bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold. I have not been able to get the 4th one loose. I have concerns about the whole engine assembly now.

Lol. Yep, sounds exactly like Steve's work. If I were you, I'd go through anything he touched with a fine tooth comb.

Regarding the water line, try using a pair of vise grips after you heat the fitting. Sounds like the line is already trashed, so vise grips won't hurt it. Get them nice and tight and they should do the trick.

 

[paul j]

Finally got the fitting loose. No room for vise grips. Lots of heating and adding ATF/acetone solution for several days. Bought a Craftsman flare wrench set which I believe helped. I was using Harbor Freight one but Craftsman is a much better fit on the fitting even after the fitting was rounded some what. The threads looked like they had not been cleaned and I had been thinking it was cross threaded but it was not.

 

[mooserage]

That's crazy, but congrats on getting it off successfully!