Q about repairing HKS bov

[BpuVR4]

ok, so i found out my HKS Super Sound bov is leaking big time- through the horn area at idle. It was at night when i opened the hood, and i thought the fan was on there was that much air flowing, and idling at 3k! I have zero experience with blow off valves. Wondering if anyone knows if I can just replace the spring- and if so where do i get it? I would like to try to fix this one if i could. I've never taken apart a bov, and this is the one that came on the car- def not what I would've picked. As of right now, it is vented to atmosphere- yes, yes i have plans to rectify this mistake.

Or is it just time to get another one? I realize these are held in by snap rings as someone else on this forum informed me. Will the HKS SSQV fit, or do i need to get another ic pipe? Any help will be appreciated.

 

[kama1]

Just get a new one.newer ssqv would bolt right in.
Other brands will require you to use a different flange/pipe.

 

[G]

Disconnect the vacuum line to it and see if it still leaks.

 

[BpuVR4]

just an fyi, the pic is not of my bov, and i dont have a vacuum line hooked up to the port in the rear- that is busted off. just used the pic for reference purposes in id'ing the HKS bov

 

[G]

Well their you go, you solved the problem on your own.

 

[BpuVR4]

well, ive never had that port hooked up the whole time ive had it, and in fact have been told not to by some.

the leak recently occuring is from the front horn area. gonna try to clean it tomm if possible first.

 

[BpuVR4]

well i took her off, and tried to clean it...not much to clean. it's not one of those that you can take apart and lube up. i hit it carefully w some brake cleaner and wiped her down. what do you guys use to seal it to the pipe so it doesn't leak?

what it looks like with the horn/hood off





is it just time to get a SSQV?

 

Your BV draws air though at idle as you are pulling vac. it is closed when you are in boost.

 

[EMX5636]

My super sound closed under idle conditions. My rear port was also broken off (but never connected). I'll see if I can find it, I don't think I gave it away when I sold my Fiero, so it might still be here. If I got it, pay shipping and it's yours if you want it. Didn't leak and worked fine when removed. PM me if interested so I remember.

 

Fiero man I got a 3.4 dohc in my 87 gt. I am going from my sc300 with a 1jzgte swap at idle my tial 50 is open

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting EMX5636:
My super sound closed under idle conditions. My rear port was also broken off (but never connected). I'll see if I can find it, I don't think I gave it away when I sold my Fiero, so it might still be here. If I got it, pay shipping and it's yours if you want it. Didn't leak and worked fine when removed. PM me if interested so I remember.



got any tips on cleaning this thing? i have some rtv gasket sealant on it and mounted already, but have it setting in my room.

let me know if you find your Super Sound. Im gonna install mine tomm, and if i think it's still bad and yours is avail, ill hit you up thank you.

 

[EMX5636]

There isn't anything I know of to clean. As long as the diaphram holds vacuum and the piston is spring loaded shut. Is the seal behind the piston cracked anywhere or really hard? It's been a few years since I've had on apart, but it should still be firm rubber IIRC.

 

[BpuVR4]

got my hands on a newer HKS SSQV, threw it on there, and i still got the same problem of idling at 3k. im about to throw the towel in and send it to my friend's shop for the to look at it, as they handle performance cars.

 

[EMX5636]

If you're idling that high, check your throttle cable. Make sure it has a bit of freeplay. You might have a FIAV that went bad, or the ISC. Do you have any way to check sensors like a logger or DSMLink?

 

[Racah15]

Stupid question, but have you even done a boost leak test?

 

[BpuVR4]

^ not a stupid q- thats why im taking it to my friend's shop. i dont have access to a compressor, and the last time i tried to use those aircans, didn't really pan out.

EMX, believe it or not, i ordered a logger cable couple months ago, and the wait for the serial->usb connector took forever, and now the gender changer adapter i need to exchange. just a lot of little things that pop up- i knew i shoulda just bought a put together logger setup from someone on the boards, but i thought i'd just piece it together myself, dumb i know. if anyone wants to recommend a brand name for the gender change adapter, please do so. I want my friend to also check the ECT sensor as well.

it used to be that here and there the idle would float up to 2k, hold for a little while, then come back down to 900 for awhile, then repeat. i try to keep all my i/c pipe couplers tight every couple weeks, and make sure all my connections are tight. ive swapped ecus with another one i have. oh, and im pretty sure ive given the throttle cable enough slack. when the idle is up that high, i put my finger on the throttle linkage, and im pretty sure it's closed- can that be possible or am i overthinking this?

i start the motor from cold, itll idle at 2k...then later as i hit the gas, the idle will float up to 3k and won't come down. ive had to drive it once or twice since it started, and sometimes the idle will come back down to 900 later on, but it's not always.

damn i realize this post just made me sound pretty lame.

 

[Racah15]

Do a BLT then we can go from there. They have a tendency to show up through the sneakiest of ways! Haha.

Just throwing this out there incase it helps. My car used to idle at 3000rpm too. No boost leaks, no loose connections/bad sensors etc. Turns out, my CC cable was in bad condition and bound itself every so often on the metal clip near the cruise control mechanism near the firewall.

Could help? to check that? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[BpuVR4]

thanks a lot brother. yea, i realize it's the first thing i should do.

 

[BpuVR4]

poked around a little more, and tracked it down to the isc. i unplugged that and the idle switch, and that solved the issue. I'm gonna get both tested on the voltmeter, and replace whichever is necessary- or both depending on ease of finding and cost. I just replaced the isc back in September so I'm kinda disappointed, but oh well. the car seems to run better with the newer bov too, so i think it's not a complete wash- it's easier to recirculate this one anyway.

EMX it was looking back at your post that made me check it out, but thanks to all again.