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New Owner of 1837/2000

Brett Adams' Galant VR-4

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Quoting turbowop:
My cables contact the underside of the throttle body as well due to the Magnus. It's a common issue. Anthony (Mitsuturbo) fixed this by installing an ISC from a different car, which is a great idea. It bothered me at first, but after years of it being that way, I don't even worry about it anymore.



My slave cylinder is sh*t, so I'm getting some notchy shifting because of that for sure. I was concerned that the cables contacting the TB were possibly a contributing factor as well. Do you think that's the case at all?

Quoting ApexHunter:
~20 miles sounds about right. I think you want to get the oil up to operating temp, call it 180 or 200, and let the temp combined with the circulation get any left over micro grit and crap that didn't make it out during final cleaning/assembly.



Thanks, David. I'll change it in a few more miles then.
 
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GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Just a few small updates. I got the new slave cylinder installed, and the car shifted much better. I still think I need to make some adjustments to get the clutch perfect.

I picked up some new lugs. They look great compared to the old ones.
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I also fabbed up a new J Pipe. I think I'm going to heat wrap it. Either that, or I think I'm going to try and fab up a heat shield for the FP exhaust manifold.
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I drove the car around a little bit. It seems like it wants to stall every time I come to a stop. I haven't been able to set the base timing yet, so I think that's part of it. But, for you guys running the Magnus manifold, did you have to make a BISS adjustment?
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
I can't remember if I had to adjust the BISS or not since it's been so long since I installed my Magnus, but I did have to retune since I was using MAFTpro SD at the time. Probably a good idea to just go through all the basic idle hoops right now anyway.
 

GSX_TC

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
3,725
Location
Houston, Texas
Hey Brett JNZtuning makes an FP manifold heat shield. click
 

coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Brett, did you have to modify your mishimoto fan shroud at all to make it fit to your radiator? How do you like it overall? Thanks
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
With a stock manifold it should fit just fine. I had to make a few minor modifications for it to fit with the FP mainfold. It seems to work great. The car stays cool, and it looks nice.

As far as installing it, I had to make brackets to fit it. I believe the shroud is for a 1G, but I can't remember. You can look around on ExtremePSI's website for the 1G kit; that's where I bought it. It's not exactly plug and play, but pretty close.
 
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coyotes

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Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
With a stock manifold it should fit just fine. I had to make a few minor modifications for it to fit with the FP mainfold. It seems to work great. The car stays cool, and it looks nice.

As far as installing it, I had to make brackets to fit it. I believe the shroud is for a 1G, but I can't remember. You can look around on ExtremePSI's website for the 1G kit; that's where I bought it. It's not exactly plug and play, but pretty close.



Thanks, that's what I was looking at. I just didn't know if it would bolt right in or not.
 

89Patches

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Joined
Jan 30, 2013
Messages
723
Location
Ontario Canada
Ahh, I was going to say if they were aluminum throw them in the trash! To many bad experiences with aluminum lugs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

GSTwithPSI

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Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
So, just got back from a 2 week vacation in SoCal. I got to mess with the car a bit today, and got most of the kinks worked out. Turns out my alternator was bad. At first I suspected a bad battery, but the more I though about it, the more I felt I had a charging issue. I swapped it out and the charging system seems to be working great now.

My other issue was a super low idle. I screwed around a bit with the BISS screw in an attempt to get the idle sorted out. I got the car to idle well enough to set the base timing to 5* BTDC. After I got the base timing set, I still wasn't super happy with the idle. I decided to boost leak test the car. I threw on the tester and charged up the system. I could hear a hiss coming from around the throttle body, but for the life of me I couldn't find it. I sprayed soapy water on every fuckin thing, and could not find the leak. Turns out, I think the BISS port on the inside of the throttle body is leaking. If I turn the BISS screw in, the hissing gets quiet and goes away completely when the screw bottomed out. If I turn the BISS out, the hiss gets louder. After looking at a picture of the OEM gasket and talking to prove_it, I'm sure all the ports inside need to be sealed up (the one I believe is causing my issue is circled in green in the pic below), and I don't think the gasket I have installed is doing the job. I ordered a new gasket, and will have it tomorrow. Hopefully that corrects the problem and clears up what little idle issues are left.


I changed the initial break in oil. I didn't see metal chunks or anything crazy when I drained it. After I got the timing set, and figured out the idle thing, I took the car for a drive. I couldn't be happier with how it is running. It feels super strong, although I haven't really been able to get into boost much yet. I'm concentrating on nice steady 3rd gear pulls under light boost and then easing off the throttle nicely into engine braking. I'm at about 30 miles on the brand new motor. I want to get to around 100 miles and do another compression test to see how the motor is breaking in. So far, it doesn't smoke, leak, knock, or anything. Hell, it doesn't even have a lifter tick (apparently 3G lifters work!). I really am pleased with how the car has turned out so far. Knock on wood, I'll get some miles on her and be ready for the Shootout!

I should have the throttle body gasket fixed tomorrow. Aside from that, I have a passenger power window issue to sort out (identified a bad ground somewhere). Otherwise, the car is straight. I have some little finishing touches to take care of, and then gotta get her all cleaned up. I got a clay bar and all the goodies for a thorough detail. I hope to have some updates soon! Here's a crappy little cell phone vid I took today (landscape mode for Street Surgeon /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). 1813/2000
 
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BpuVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
813
Location
Chicago
this may sound remedial, but would a new biss screw and o-ring not help with the leak, or is it way past that?
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Yeah. So I made sure to check the BISS O ring for leakage when I did the boost leak test. Prove_it actually suggested that to me in another thread, so I made sure to double check it was good. The O ring itself is fine. By adjusting the screw there's a noticeable a change in pitch of the hiss. I'm fairly confident my TB gasket isn't sealing the port inside. I'll pull it off tomorrow to confirm.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Oh, and I drove the car around enough to notice the welded diff. First impression is; I hate it. The car just feels like it hates me anytime the wheel isn't straight. Every now and then when I'm turning really sharp, I'll hear a little pop from what sounds like the front CV axles. That normal? If I didn't have to pull the trans to swap the diff, that bitch would be out tomorrow. IDK, maybe it just takes some getting used to...
 

CutlassJim

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Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Manchester, NH
Popping axles is normal with a welded diff. It's the sound of them hating life.
 

turbowop

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Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
You'll get used to it. It's not bad if you don't plan to daily it or parallel park it very often. It should only be noticeable at slow speeds in something like a parking lot environment.

I back my car into my garage whenever I get home from driving it. So I usually back it in as far as I can tell it's not going to hit my shelving behind the car and then push it the rest of the way. But if the front wheels aren't pointed straight when backing it in, good luck pushing it backwards the last few inches. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif That sh*t binds up like crazy. I rest easy knowing I won't blow a center diff when launching the car. The slight drawback in driveability in parking lots is worth it to me. Though with just 16g power, I'm not sure that's needed for you.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
I guess I'll just roll with the welded diff for a while...poping axles and all. sh*t reminds me of one of those old ass wooden ships rolling on the high seas, all creaking and crackin'. It's ironic that the welded diff is stronger, because it makes the car feel like the drivetrain is gonna blow apart at any moment. Whateves. I have a regular diff sitting in my old trans, and can swap it in if I decided I can't hang.

I screwed with the passenger side power window for 2 hours trying to figure out the problem. The window wouldn't go up or down using the driver master switch or the passenger window switch, but the motor and switches checked out fine. There's a break in the ground circuit somewhere in the harness between the driver master switch and the connector that leads into the passenger door. I wasn't about to pull the dash apart to find the break, so I ended up just making a new ground circuit at the passenger door. Now the window works fine from the passenger side, but won't work from the driver side until I repair the break. Eventually, I want to replace the dash in the car because there are a few little imperfections. I figured I'll fix the harness when that day comes.

I put all the little stuff back on, like the wipers, hood hinges and some other BS. I need to figure out what I'm gonna do with the hood. I need a new insulator, because the old one looks like ass. Problem is, I can't find one for a JDM hood, and I don't wanna pay a million dollars for one either. I'm thinking of just painting the underside of the hood if I can't come up with a better solution. It's just sad to have a nice shiny engine bay, while the underside of the hood looks like poop. I feel like it really takes away from the overall appearance since it's such a large area.

So, stuff left to do: Install the new TB gasket tomorrow, make a final idle adjustment, and hope to put a few miles on the car. After that she'll get a thorough detail sometime this weekend if things go as planned.

Last, but certainly not least, I want to thank everyone here on the forum for the help and guidance over the course of this build. The feedback, help and compliments are/have been greatly appreciated. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it feels great. I can attribute much of what I know and have learned about this platform to the guys here. Guys willing to help however they can...be it sending me parts for damn near free, sourcing stuff I'd never find on my own, or just really taking the time to break sh*t down so I can understand it. Thanks.

G, you're still a douche /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

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