Keep blowing gauge cluster fuse

So I'm trying to push through the miserably cold weather around here to get 642 on the road, but I keep getting plaqued by little issues. My AFC isn't booting up whick doesn't make any sense as I never touched its wiring and I verified that all the connections were solid(though some didn't look the nicest) before I retaped the harness. Figure its probably a loose ground or something simple but don't have a lot of motivation given the 30-40 degree weather.
My other major issue is that my dash gauges aren't working. Checked and it keeps blowing the 10 amp fuse. Replaced it several times and it just keeps reblowing at startup. Any ideas? I can't think of anything that I removed that would cause it to keep blowing. I wouldn't think that the AFC not booting would cause it, though they may both be result of the same problem.

 

[dmj]

You have a short in the wiring .Time to check all grounds and look for any cut or frayed wires.

 

I'm aware that its probably a short, but haven't the slightest idea where it would have come from since I didn't touch any of the wiring pertaining to the gauges. Worked fine prior to the rebuild and all the wiring under the dash look fine prior to being put back in. I double checked all connections at the junction block, underdash connections, sensors, and ECU. Wasn't sure if this was common.

 

Has anybody tapped a boost gauge or possibly an aftermarket radio into your illumination wire? That could possibly be the culprit

 

Boost and A/F gauges were both originally getto hooked up to one of the fuses (can't remember which, but just wire wrapped around blade then shoved in. Nothing was cut). I haven't hooked them back up to anything yet.

 

So my AFC is now working. I rewired the AFC harness and still nothing. Checked and I was getting voltage at the connection and was getting worried that it was the AFC itself. Pulled the back panel off and the input cable was unplugged inside all along /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Nice waste of several days.

Still can't figure out where the draw that keeps blowing the gauge cluster fuse is coming from. I've checked and can't find anything out of order. Checked all wiring by junction block and nothing is spliced. I pulled the gauge cluster and tried to verify that it wasn't anything internal and also tried a 15A to see if it was possibly just a slight overdraw, but instant blow on both accounts. All my signals and illumination lights work fine. Any suggestions would help.

Cruise control is eliminated, alarm is disabled (yellow and blue wire at ETACS clipped per how to archives), none power antenna, clutch pedal switch is working. I don't know what the seatbelt timer is /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif What else runs off of it (fuse 9 in junction block)? I tried tracing all paths from the junction block wiring diagram, but couldn't find diagrams for several of the pins used when searching for there.

 

[Hertz]

Pull the cluster out, see if it still blows. If you haven't removed the cluster before, it's pretty easy. Lower the steering wheel, remove screws from the trim ring, unscrew the A/B switch from cluster, push in and remove ring, unscrew cluster (sides) rotate the top towards you and the cluster should then be able to slid out to the right.

This will at least let you know if it is the cluster or something else.

Got aftermarket gauges someplace? I'd target those.

 

Quoting blue642:
I pulled the gauge cluster and tried to verify that it wasn't anything internal



Already did as stated in previous post. I just reinstalled the dash last week, and didn't lock it in yet for that very reason.
I ran a search on all connections that feed from that fuse. ETACS, seatbelt timer, cigerette lighter, and cruise control switch appear to be the only ones that don't go through the cluster first. I'm leaning towards cruise control since its disconnected or possible cigerette lighter grounding out.

 

Tracked it down over the weekend. First disconnected all known end sources (removed gage cluster, disconnected ETACS, cruise control switch, ect.) and it was still blowing. Next I disconnected the 4 plugs on the junction block that feed off of it. No blow at that point. Plugged them in one at a time till it popped a fuse. C-39 seemed to be the culprit, so I unplugged pin-7 to verify. That pin is the one that feeds pretty much everything, so it didn't narrow much down.
I then pulled the junction block and most of the engine bay to interior connections so that I could get under there far enough to trace everything. Ended up determining that I thought it was the one that went into the engine bay through C-23 (I think) for unknown reasons. Disconnected its pin and put it all back together and everything appears to be working properly now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif