just bought gvr4 PlEASE help not boosting and cant idle

[yeti]

For sure thank you for not banning
Is a gauge pillar with a boost gauge, a oil tenp gauge, and an AFR gauge and a greddy boost controller profec 1 for 150$ is that a good de

 

[yeti]

Deal**

 

[yeti]

ok.

so voltage is regulated and still cant boost
after i changed fuse i went up the street voltage was at 13.1

right as i shift into second a few seconds and Stock boost gauge is already full(NAPA IS ORDERING ME VACUUM LINE FOR REAL BOOST GAUGE) And i start going slower then shift into third and basically clog traffic, then i shifted back into second and got off main road /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

not sure what to do car is still stalling at stop
i have bad 'tps' sensor so i am going order one of those but i doubt that's the problem

just need to make it to dmv to register it then will be traveling for previously offered help

 

[Adorsey]

[quoting yeti]i have bad 'tps' sensor so i am going order one of those but i doubt that's the problem





you are mistaken sir. Throttle position sensor? lol

 

[yeti]

but would that be causing the over boost?
i know it would effect my surging idle and stalling but i honestly don't know if it goes that far too make the car boost until it starts bogging out.

 

[Adorsey]

Over boost, sounds like you may have a boost leak, both hot and cold side can effect the system.
If you do a proper boost leak test via v-faq or somewhere you may find a early xmas present.
You cannot rely on the stock gauge to be accurate.
Are you running a boost controller? turn it down maybe.?

 

[yeti]

i have no boost controller maybe PO had 1 installed and turned it up and took it out w/out turning it down?

also car is un-circulated any possible way the car was speed density and PO took everything out.

i know it used to have a safc in the glove box

(i have boost controller just don't wanna install without real boost gauge)

 

[Adorsey]

Ight, you need to check your vacuum lines and make sure they are in correctly.
After, you need to pressure test the system.
Then you need to recirculate the blow of valve back into the intake pipe.
Put the boost gauge vacuum line off the throtle body.
All from here.
Post back with some pics of some sh*t. engine bay. ecu.

 

[yeti]

you know of any 4g63 vacuum line diagrams so i could check 1 by 1

 

[yeti]

would this be the right one also if anyone else could find a bigger diagram cause i cant read this one

 

[14u2nV]

web page

 

[yeti]

dont i feel special faced


thank you

 

[Launch]

click

 

[yeti]

i have never even found that gvr4 doc.page

thank you very much

 

[yeti]

and on the FP.net do you mean the service manual CD

 

[Launch]

Yep. TONS of help, tips, and of course all the mitsu factory service manuals and CAPS(parts lookup w/ diagrams)

 

[496of2000]

I've been having my fair share of problems too. Found a boost leak, it's crack. This explains my maxed out low fuel trims.

I could hearing hissing sound while it was idling. Located on the intake mainfold, between the TI.

 

[yeti]

ok vacuum lines are all over the place will take some pictures

and what does the ignition timing plate read (the thing you point the timing light read

for all i can it says

btdc
I 10 I I

does the the one to the left is 12*one to the right of 10* represents 8* and the last is one is 5*
is that right

 

[yeti]

 

[yeti]