SmoothCustomer
Well-known member
2g head with 2g intake manifold.
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jdm gvr4 Cyclone intake manifold or stock us-spec intake manifold?
- Thread starternickbuilt
- Start date
i'd go with the cylone if you have a small turbo
belize1334
Well-known member
Word around the street is that the cyclone gives up 3 cfm to the 1G manifold which is approximately nothing. This is from testing that happened years ago and which I have never seen... but I believe it.
curtis
Well-known member
Sorry for the crappy picture drew this up and just took a picture of it years ago. This way lets you control it with boost reference and nothing to do with rpm. By doing it this way it doesn't waste the time waiting on rpm to change and make it to a higher level before it works. Different loads and different driving styles will spool the turbo faster.
I ran mine this way for years with zero problems. Everything pictured can be built for 5 bucks out of a junkyard. You need 2 Mitsubishi vacuum switch one normally closed and one normally open, a pressure switch a vacuum canister with a one way check valve and the actuator on the manifold. The vacuum switches are on every Mitsubishi and other cars as well. The hobbs/pressure switch I used I found on a old turbo Subaru station wagon and I had the vacuum canister with my manifold but they come on the Monteros as well. Besides all that just get a bunch of wire plugs while your at it and factory vacuum line and your done. The hobbs switch can be hooked up anywhere there is a pressure source and doesn't have to be on the same vacuum lines as the switches. I just did mine this way because I used a vacuum switch holder from a mirage and hooked the hobbs and canister all together and made it look like a factory piece and even wired it to the fuel purge power source so it looked and worked like a factory piece. Only thing I did not pictured was run a hot wire from the solenoids to the inside of the car and tied to a indicator light and grounded it to the floor under the console so I knew the system was working. It was the blue light special everytime it hit 3 psi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I ran mine this way for years with zero problems. Everything pictured can be built for 5 bucks out of a junkyard. You need 2 Mitsubishi vacuum switch one normally closed and one normally open, a pressure switch a vacuum canister with a one way check valve and the actuator on the manifold. The vacuum switches are on every Mitsubishi and other cars as well. The hobbs/pressure switch I used I found on a old turbo Subaru station wagon and I had the vacuum canister with my manifold but they come on the Monteros as well. Besides all that just get a bunch of wire plugs while your at it and factory vacuum line and your done. The hobbs switch can be hooked up anywhere there is a pressure source and doesn't have to be on the same vacuum lines as the switches. I just did mine this way because I used a vacuum switch holder from a mirage and hooked the hobbs and canister all together and made it look like a factory piece and even wired it to the fuel purge power source so it looked and worked like a factory piece. Only thing I did not pictured was run a hot wire from the solenoids to the inside of the car and tied to a indicator light and grounded it to the floor under the console so I knew the system was working. It was the blue light special everytime it hit 3 psi. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
DR1665
Well-known member
I've got pretty much everything I need to make this thing work, save the vacuum canister. The OE part (3.8L Montero/Eclipse GTS) mentioned elsewhere for $25 is now closer to $60 according to my local parts guy. Aside from the Montero/3G piece, any other options for vac canisters? I plan on using a spare FPR solenoid and trigger through DSMap.
kthx
kthx
