InitialdVR4
Well-known member
what is needed to get the ignition switch unmounted from the steering wheel. all thats left is the goldish or bronze screw that doesnt have a head.
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ignition switch question(resolved)
- Thread starter InitialdVR4
- Start date
Are you removing just the switch portion, or the entire lock cylinder assembly that bolts onto the column? If you are removing the whole thing, usually there are two (2) bolts with "break-off" heads when the switch housing is installed (located on the bottom). You will have to drill off the top of those to get the housing clamp off. then you can turn out the remaining portion.
InitialdVR4
Well-known member
thanks thats the answer i was looking for. so just drill above the headless bolt and it should be able to spin out?
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Quoting InitialdVR4:
thanks thats the answer i was looking for. so just drill above the headless bolt and it should be able to spin out?
If I remeber correctly, they are designed to shear the heads off when they are tightened at the factory. What you;re looking at is the sheared head after the head has twisted off.
You want to center punch the center of the "dome" of the bolt itself (where the head would ordinarilly be) to help you center up your hole.
... I've found that using an approximately 1/8 inch bit to drill in approxiamtely 1/8 inch and then using a 3/16ths left hand drill bit (reverse rotation) will *usually* get those pesky buggers to back out during the drilling proccess.
You can replace the original bolts with allen head socket screws when you go to re-assemble things
thanks thats the answer i was looking for. so just drill above the headless bolt and it should be able to spin out?
If I remeber correctly, they are designed to shear the heads off when they are tightened at the factory. What you;re looking at is the sheared head after the head has twisted off.
You want to center punch the center of the "dome" of the bolt itself (where the head would ordinarilly be) to help you center up your hole.
... I've found that using an approximately 1/8 inch bit to drill in approxiamtely 1/8 inch and then using a 3/16ths left hand drill bit (reverse rotation) will *usually* get those pesky buggers to back out during the drilling proccess.
You can replace the original bolts with allen head socket screws when you go to re-assemble things
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