The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

ignition switch question(resolved)

InitialdVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2013
Messages
58
Location
tucson, AZ
what is needed to get the ignition switch unmounted from the steering wheel. all thats left is the goldish or bronze screw that doesnt have a head.
 
Last edited:

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
Are you removing just the switch portion, or the entire lock cylinder assembly that bolts onto the column? If you are removing the whole thing, usually there are two (2) bolts with "break-off" heads when the switch housing is installed (located on the bottom). You will have to drill off the top of those to get the housing clamp off. then you can turn out the remaining portion.
 

InitialdVR4

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2013
Messages
58
Location
tucson, AZ
thanks thats the answer i was looking for. so just drill above the headless bolt and it should be able to spin out?
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Quoting InitialdVR4:
thanks thats the answer i was looking for. so just drill above the headless bolt and it should be able to spin out?



If I remeber correctly, they are designed to shear the heads off when they are tightened at the factory. What you;re looking at is the sheared head after the head has twisted off.

You want to center punch the center of the "dome" of the bolt itself (where the head would ordinarilly be) to help you center up your hole.

... I've found that using an approximately 1/8 inch bit to drill in approxiamtely 1/8 inch and then using a 3/16ths left hand drill bit (reverse rotation) will *usually* get those pesky buggers to back out during the drilling proccess.



You can replace the original bolts with allen head socket screws when you go to re-assemble things
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Recent Forum Posts

Top