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I hate banjo fittings

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Even with new "crush washers" the banjo fittings seem to be crappy. The bolt that goes thru is weak, and tightening them to where things are snug enough often results in stretched banjo bolts.

So i did this:




 

IncorpoRatedX

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Joined
May 28, 2003
Messages
5,593
Location
Arizona
That's cute and all, how about some part numbers for the rest of the class?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
4AN to M10*1.25 adapter Blue - Plenty of these FS on Ebay from various sellers. I got mine shipped from Taiwan.

Russell 614504 Coupler 90 degree -4 AN Female--4 AN Female Blue

XRP 704404FS20 - -4AN inline 20 micron filter


I really like this filter. It's got a huge element, and seems to be fairly "free flowing". This actually looks like a better design than what FP is selling, and it costs a bit less.

I believe some vendors are selling these filters in the 10 micron variant. I figured the 20 micron might be slightly less prone to clogging (50% less, actually) and will still do the job. You can get them in 10, 20, or 40 micron and larger, i believe. The XRP filters come with 2 different O-rings, and instructions on what to use each one for, depending on what fluid is being transferred. (This is a FAR superior design to the blue Earl's inline filter i used before, which had aluminum crush washers for sealing, and a 100+ micron screen) If you wanted to get a 10 micron, you'd just change the last two digits in the P/N to 10 rather than 20. I got mine from a company called Western Performance Online.
 
Last edited:

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
^ What he said.

Ball bearing turbos dont like a lot of oil pressure. Not only is it fed from the head, there's also a restrictor on the oil inlet at the CHRA.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
I should also add that i did this primarily for the same reason you see the exhaust manifold is just sitting there. After about 200 miles of driving on this fresh build, i noticed some oil on the block behind the turbo. I'm not sure if it ran down from the oil feed and migrated across the HG, or if there is another issue. I wanted to make damn sure it's not an oil leak from the crappy banjo fitting i had with the -4AN nipple on it. This should seal far better and be easier to service/maintain if the head has to come off later.
 

BogusSVO

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Joined
Aug 29, 2013
Messages
232
Location
Pensacola, Florida
For the oil leak.... Did you put some sealant on the bottom middle exhaust stud?

That stud is the oil one into an oil return and will give a leak. Just a touch of RTV will cure that leak.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Yes i did. I suspect the leak may have come from the oil feed, as the side of the head was a bit oily below it. It could easily accumulate on the HG from there, and travel across to run down the front of the block. It was a very minor amount of oil. I'll know more in the spring when i run the car again. If i have to pull the head at that time and run a stock HG, so be it. That's the only other place oil could come from.
 
Last edited:

EHmotorsports

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Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
looking good! cant wait to see this on the road.
 
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