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How to relocate battery to stock maf location?
- Thread startercupajoe
- Start date
Nartanian
Well-known member
You can't use the stock intake pipe with a 2g mas. You can either
1) relocate the battery
2g maf upgrade
2) get the ets pipe
ETS piping
Where to buy it
3) custom fab something.
1) relocate the battery
2g maf upgrade
2) get the ets pipe
ETS piping
Where to buy it
3) custom fab something.
Hmm, gets my thinking. Maybe I can build a plate that would bolt up to the 2 bolts that hold the stock maf in place and strap the battery to that. Then I can either hook up a 2g intake pipe or take my 1g ETS pipe and just slap that on.
Has anyone located there battery where the stock maf is? If so any tips or even pics?
Has anyone located there battery where the stock maf is? If so any tips or even pics?
cheekychimp
Well-known member
Quoting cupajoe:
Maybe I can build a plate that would bolt up to the 2 bolts that hold the stock maf in place and strap the battery to that.
I posted a picture one time of how I took the old battery tray, cut it up, and bolted it to the fender to move the battery back further. There were 2 problems with that:
1) it makes things very tight for the intercooler piping and shift linkage in that same area.
2) It raises the battery up higher, so you have to worry about the terminals shorting to the hood.
As someone said, another good option is moving it back to the firewall, down low where the charcoal canister sits.
Maybe I can build a plate that would bolt up to the 2 bolts that hold the stock maf in place and strap the battery to that.
I posted a picture one time of how I took the old battery tray, cut it up, and bolted it to the fender to move the battery back further. There were 2 problems with that:
1) it makes things very tight for the intercooler piping and shift linkage in that same area.
2) It raises the battery up higher, so you have to worry about the terminals shorting to the hood.
As someone said, another good option is moving it back to the firewall, down low where the charcoal canister sits.
Muskrat
Well-known member
Quoting cupajoe:
Hmm, gets my thinking. Maybe I can build a plate that would bolt up to the 2 bolts that hold the stock maf in place and strap the battery to that. Then I can either hook up a 2g intake pipe or take my 1g ETS pipe and just slap that on.
Has anyone located there battery where the stock maf is? If so any tips or even pics?
It can be done with a smaller battery, like an Oddesy PC925. You can build a battery tray out of 1" angle iron (or aluminum, if you want to spend the money) and some flat iron from home depot. If you don't have a welder, put it together with rivets. I'd use 2 rivet's per joint.
the problem with moving the stock battery (or stock replacement) there is that it's to tall and will hit the hood.
Hmm, gets my thinking. Maybe I can build a plate that would bolt up to the 2 bolts that hold the stock maf in place and strap the battery to that. Then I can either hook up a 2g intake pipe or take my 1g ETS pipe and just slap that on.
Has anyone located there battery where the stock maf is? If so any tips or even pics?
It can be done with a smaller battery, like an Oddesy PC925. You can build a battery tray out of 1" angle iron (or aluminum, if you want to spend the money) and some flat iron from home depot. If you don't have a welder, put it together with rivets. I'd use 2 rivet's per joint.
the problem with moving the stock battery (or stock replacement) there is that it's to tall and will hit the hood.
Why not just move it to the trunk, use your factory tray and hold down, put a kill switch in line, and viola. Then you can use any intake and MAS you want.
IIRC my relocation kit was like $45 or $50, $20 for a breaker type kill switch, and $7.50 for some d-straps for the long run of power wire(the ones that come with the kit are plastic junk) . It really wasn't that big of a hassle, and looks clean and custom at the same time. Ah yeah, forgot to mention $4 for some terminal covers. You don't want something metal your carrying in your trunk being welded to your battery terminals.
IIRC my relocation kit was like $45 or $50, $20 for a breaker type kill switch, and $7.50 for some d-straps for the long run of power wire(the ones that come with the kit are plastic junk) . It really wasn't that big of a hassle, and looks clean and custom at the same time. Ah yeah, forgot to mention $4 for some terminal covers. You don't want something metal your carrying in your trunk being welded to your battery terminals.
Muskrat
Well-known member
^^ Depends on your use.
Many tracks and events have strict regulations for truck battery relocations, and require an external kill switch. No everyone wants to drill through the body of their car and have a big switch sticking out.
Aside from relocating to the trunk, the charcoal canister location is probably the best from a weight distribution standpoint, but sucks from an access standpoint.
Many tracks and events have strict regulations for truck battery relocations, and require an external kill switch. No everyone wants to drill through the body of their car and have a big switch sticking out.
Aside from relocating to the trunk, the charcoal canister location is probably the best from a weight distribution standpoint, but sucks from an access standpoint.
I like crankwalks location for the killswitch. I have one in my trunk, but not for strip or track use. I suppose since it's not stationary at the moment, with a little brainstorming and some fabbing, it could be mounted temperarily outside the trunk while at an event, then put right back for the way home.
As far as the weight distribution, the trunk would definitely have the CC beat.
As far as the weight distribution, the trunk would definitely have the CC beat.
Nartanian
Well-known member
I didn't have to drill holes through the body panel. Just fits through the grommets on the driver side splash guard. Not using an external kill switch either but for track events you would need it. You would need to vent the gases outside the car too unless you gotta gel sealed battery like the Optima Redtop. How about the Blinging Battery Tray Relocation
Last edited:
Optima red top for me.
Me, personally, I wouldn't put anything but an optima in the trunk. I don't drill or hack my car ever, except for the fuel pump rewire.
The kill switch I have, if I do decide to run an event, it could easily be mounted to an existing hole( like a license plate light hole) outside the trunk. It would depend on the individual I guess (taste and pref.).
Me, personally, I wouldn't put anything but an optima in the trunk. I don't drill or hack my car ever, except for the fuel pump rewire.
The kill switch I have, if I do decide to run an event, it could easily be mounted to an existing hole( like a license plate light hole) outside the trunk. It would depend on the individual I guess (taste and pref.).
Yea well I already have a redtop optima battery that is practically new. But I guess I could build a plate to bolt to the stock maf location ans swtich to a smaller battery.
I also like the idead of putting it on the cross member but I would also need a smaller battery for that.
I also like the idead of putting it on the cross member but I would also need a smaller battery for that.
Your making it a harder decision than it really is /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. Put it in the place of the CC or in the trunk. That's pretty much what were working with in our auto's.
If you already have the red top, and a few extra bones, relocate to the trunk. If your cars a strip car, buy a kill switch and install. Most people with track specific gvr4's don't care to drill a couple holes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Whatever you decide, keep is updated. Good luck
If you already have the red top, and a few extra bones, relocate to the trunk. If your cars a strip car, buy a kill switch and install. Most people with track specific gvr4's don't care to drill a couple holes. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Whatever you decide, keep is updated. Good luck
Ok, I'm leaning towards relocation to trunk as I have the wires already. Will 4awg 1886 strand, 0 oxygen copper wire be fine? I don't plan on running a fuse block I think i'll just bolt it too the stock fuse holder, is that ok to do?
My only confusion is where to put the breaker & fuse inline. From what I found I need a breaker no more then 12" from the battery? Can anyone confirm this?
Can you clear up my confusion on this? please and thanks.
-Joe
My only confusion is where to put the breaker & fuse inline. From what I found I need a breaker no more then 12" from the battery? Can anyone confirm this?
Can you clear up my confusion on this? please and thanks.
-Joe
