GM Alternator re-do

[1990ggsxnj]

click
So this has been spoken about previously.

My question:

Seeing as the "tabs" that must be ground off on the alternator would be rubbing against the alternator mount on the engine, has anyone ground down the mount a little more instead? And if so, any problems afterward? This would prevent voiding the warranty of a new alternator. Seeing as the Saturn mount should be small enough to allow movement WITH those tabs, I'm thinking there would be no adverse effects mimicking this.

Also:

click
What if we use something like this tensioner instead? Seems more stable. Anyone fabbed up something similar?

 

[prove_it]

That tensioner just doesn't seem as stable to me for some reason. I wouldn't do it, I don't know why but I just don't like the way it looks. Don't ask, maybe just personal preference.

 

[jb4]

I believe that's the same type of tensioner the Jay's racing relocation kit uses.

 

[1990ggsxnj]

Quoting prove_it:
That tensioner just doesn't seem as stable to me for some reason. I wouldn't do it, I don't know why but I just don't like the way it looks. Don't ask, maybe just personal preference.


Well it uses locking similar to your shifter cable and most of the force will be on the bottom mount. My thinking anyway.

 

[prove_it]

Yea, I never said it was bad, just my preference. I know it would work.
Here's a question: once installed how much of a bitch is it to hold one nut and tighen the other? It's kinda tight in the engine bay, I'm wondering how easy it would be to have both hands and wrenches in there. Just a thought. Looks good on the stand, but in the car with power steering, I think it could be tight.

 

[iceman69510]

And what about this ridiculous installation makes this the alternator of choice?

 

Its cheaper and puts out more amps. Whats so rediculous about it? Just a little grinding for clearance and adding a longer nut and bolt. Sounds like a good choice to me. I'm kind of curious if it works well in the AC relocation position. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[boostedinaz]

A lot of guys on DMSlink forums have been doing this for ahwile. It works much better and is cheaper if an alt needs to be replaced.


As for the new tensioner if built correctly it will be better than the stock part. If you build it with one side threaded normal and one with a reverse thread it should be a simple twist to add or subtract tension. Then you just have to snug the retainer buts to keep everything tight. My Jay Raing kit is just like that and super easy to use.

 

[prove_it]

If I remember correctly the saturn alternator will put out 140 amps over our 100 amp. That's about it. If you have a stereo it's worth it. If your car is stock, you won't gain much.

 

[boostedinaz]

You can get them in a few different outputs from stock to 200 amps. While our alternators are 90 amps (if you have a good GVR4 alt or 60 I believe for a 1G) then tend to have crappy out put and are notorious for failing. When they do fail they are expensive to replace and if refurbished are hit or miss.

The Sat alternators have more output, are cheaper to buy, and last much longer. I see no downside other than the small amount of grinding needed to make them fit. My nest DSM will have a Saturn alternator as soon as the stocker takes a crap.

 

[curtis]

You can also do like I did.
Click here for subrau alternator install.
stock alt pulley from yours can be modified by any industrial machine shop in just a few minutes. Its a cheap upgrade and plugs right in plus theres 160 and 200 amp alt for a subaru for cheap..

 

[1990ggsxnj]

Nice Curtis, I remember seeing that a few months back actually.

The entire reason why (for those that are questioning) isn't just because you get more amperage. Correct me if I'm wrong, the Mitsu Alt. pulls exhaust heated air from the passenger side. The Saturn's fan pulls from the driver's side which is cooler air, extending the life of the Alternator. I've also heard of this getting rid of some idling issues because there isn't as much of a fluctuation in voltage either. Yes yes, I know it's only the amperage rating that is different, but I'm only going by people who have done it already.

Boostedinaz, Curtis. Did you happen to get the same results? Would be interesting to see the difference in performance between a higher rated Mitsu and Saturn Alt.

Also to get back on track, I guess nobody has taken the innitiative to grind down the mount moreso. This will probably be my next summer project. I hate working in the rain or snow, lol.

 

[boostedinaz]

I never got my car up and running with the Saturn Alt. I ended up selling it and the buyer put the A/C back in. Another car I have worked on had a similar set up to mine and he had much better voltage at idle and didn't suffer from any voltage drops at high RPM.

 

[curtis]

The stronger unit definitely helped on mine. idle surges, cruising as well as top end. I have a turbo timer in the car that is only hooked up just to read voltage mainly and it was always up towards 14.0 or above. I also have a g3 from a ford. Its the one with the double internal fan from the 4.6 cars. I had it pushed up to 160 amps years ago sold it with my mustang and it made it home. I think it just needs a voltage regulator if so I may mount it where the ac compressor use to live because I plan to run the exhaust out the side. Problem is its large and may not fit but there cheap now compared to 95 when i did mine. I just looked on ebay and they have 260 amp units for the mustangs. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif

 

[DailyDSM]

I'm running a 160A Saturn alternator with an upgraded one wire regulator. It has been working gret for about 6 months and has a lifetime warranty. Its the same one many of the DSMLink guys are running. The one-wire setup is nice because the only wiring connected to the alt is the larger 12V wire running to the alternator fuse. None of the stock wiring is used and no need to splice in a GM alternator plug.

 

[EMX5636]

I'll get some pics of my setup. I shortened and modded a Jay Racing adjuster for my Saturn Alt swap. I'll be honest though, while it does look nicer than the flipped stock mount, damn is it a PITA to adjust. It's gotta be so short that the jamb-nut is directly behind the P/S belt. I had to make my own "line wrench" so it would clear the water pump outlet. I have some pics on my work computer, I'll add them shortly.

About the grinding part, I took a decent amount off the block, but I still had to take the ribs flush on the alternator. If you do it careful enough though, you almost can't tell that they were there, so you could probably return it with some grease and oil on it for a core...

 

[EMX5636]

Here are a couple phone pics. Sorry for the quality...




Only one is working right now... I'll see what I can do for the 2 others.