Engine flakes ****updated question******

[EHmotorsports]

Orileys out here had the crank for me. But any machinist that's any good at there job can work with any crank no matter the make.

 

[prove_it]

Yea, but our guys out here also say you don't need a torque plate to bore the engine.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[EHmotorsports]

Yeah fire that guy hahaha

 

[iceman69510]

Quoting prove_it:
Yea, but our guys out here also say you don't need a torque plate to bore the engine.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif



You don't need a torque plate, if you don't need the bores straight. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[prove_it]

According to this machinist:
"They will be just as straight head on or off. The head will torque down straight and the force is equal over the whole engine. If the head is straight then the walls will be straight."

I said, "bye"

 

[prove_it]

Alright, so I sourced a new crank. Haven't measured it yet, but I know I will have it polished. I'm getting ready to order new bearings and I'm wondering what everyone thinks. Motor will most likely be maxed at about 500 crank hp, spin to 7.5k, and see much abuse. I don't care about changing oil frequently. Currently I have no oil cooler but will be adding an EVO 3 cooler soon. So far I'm looking at ACL race series bearings. They offer a bearing with .001" extra clearance, but I don't know if I really need that. I have no balance shafts so oil pressure does run a little bit high, but I ported the OFH which gets it at around 10psi idle, 85psi redline.

Also wondering if the ceramic coating is good for a street car.

 

[prove_it]

anyone?

 

[EHmotorsports]

Yes ceramic coating works great for race or street.

 

[prove_it]

UPDATE


Pulled the bottom end out. Found number 1 and 4 rod bearings came apart. Kinda weird those two went out. Crazy it didn't knock. Get this though. Pulled the crank and inspected it....
No damage what so ever to the crank. I picked up a used 100k mile crank and had it polished. The old crank had better specs and looked better than the used one I bought. Crazy. Rods weren't even discolored, no damage, nada. Eagle rods held up great. Pulled the cams out and looked for damage or metal. Nothing. Measured every single bore, and crank out. Everything is perfect. Reassembled with new ACL race bearings with .001" extra oil clearance. Plastigauged the journals, came out to exactly .003" on all bearings. No taper, out of round, just all perfect.

I'm blown away at how I came within inches of spinning two bearings and ended up saving the crank, block, and rods. Talk about a good day. Spent 11 hours and had the crank out and reassembled with measurements on a hoist without pulling the engine. I think thats a sign I've worked on these too much.

If I can get my phone to work I'll post some pics.

 

[prove_it]

Been through my second oil change now. My oil pressure seems high. I'm getting around 18-20psi at idle with rotella 15w-40. It will push past 100 near redline. The block currently has:
Oil squirters
BSE
.003" bearing tolerances
Ported 90 oil filter housing with external cooler.

I had rotella 10w-30 in it and also had high oil pressure. Is it a better idea to port the OFH more, or should I go to a 5w-20 oil? That seems too thin in my opinion, so what's everyone think.

 

[iceman69510]

Does that higher end pressure number continue when engine is hot (presumably, or you should not be redlining it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif?

 

[prove_it]

Cold start is higher numbers. Those numbers are full hot condition.