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Driveshaft rebuild/replace

Lightning1

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
67
Location
IL
First off, I must say sorry, I am sure this has been asked before, but I could not fine it for the life of me.

I have a 1991 GVR4 and the carrier bearing is shot, and the driveshaft needs to be rebuilt. I cannot fine a place that sells the parts, of find out how much it is. I was wondering if anyone has done the rebuild and where to get parts, or is there a place that sells a cheap replacemant/aftermarket shaft that I can buy.

Your input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading!

Jeff
 

Muskrat

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
Code:

Code:
Part:			|QTY:	|Price:	|Total:
------------------------------------------------
Yoke Recall Kit		|3	|.53	|3.59	
Carrrier Bearing	|2	|.30	|6.60	MB505495
T-case Output Seal	|1	|.66	|.66		MR983368
Torque Solutions Bush.	|1	|.99	|.99				tuners nation
Big Nut			|2	|$	|$		MA143517
Big Washer		|2	|$	|$		MT203641
Spacers			|4	|.33	|.32		MB241174
------------------------------------------------



3 Yok recall kits because they come with OEM U-Joints, which are about $100 each individually. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

If you don't want to use the solid bushings JNZ sells a kit on their website with the stock isolators.

Might as well rebuild the whole thing. I probably needs it anyway. Cost's about $300 if the lobro joint is good. Aftermarket shaft is about $800, and only replaces the first 2 sections.

Someone on tuners was working on a full 2 piece replacement from somewhere for around the same price. I bet they'd do VR4 one too, if you got them measurements.
 
Last edited:

trunks

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Annandale, MN
I just did this myself. There is no such thing as a cheap aftermarket alternative that I could find. I also bought that kit from jnz tuning. I'm not sure that I really needed the 3 yoke kits though. I also ended up buying a new lobro joint from a member on here since I trashed mine. I would try not to since it's a dealer item and stupid expensive.
 

Jnz kit is available the picture isnt Lol good kt comes with everything that you need to rebuild it
 

Lightning1

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
67
Location
IL
awesome! I will be ordering those parts to get my car on the road this summer to do some a## kicking. Thank you for all the input and help, it is good to know that there is a place to go if I find myself stumped.

Thanks again,

Jeff
 

DR1665

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
4,642
Location
Iowa City, IA
How do you know if you need to rebuild the prop? Seems like a fairly sturdy piece of kit to me. I'm casually browsing any thread related due to torn seals on the carriers for 195, but what sort of damage/wear should someone be looking for to be sure they actually need to drop three bills or more on a full replacement kit?

Since 195/2000 is going to spend a considerable amount of time on dirt, exposed carrier bearings should be repaired/replaced, but I'd like to know more about why someone would need to replace the yokes and whatnot.

Appreciate the insight. Understanding why makes it easier to plan how.
 

Muskrat

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
After 2 decades parts wear. If you have driveline noise this is probably one of the causes. Especially the notorious wub-wubs and driveshaft thumping. Booming and vibrations can also be caused by worn u-joints.

If you're going to disassemble the driveshaft to fix any one of these problems, it worth it to just do the whole thing, that way you're not doing it again in a year for some other problem.

You replace the yoke because of sealing issues. It was a recall. If the recall was performed you probably don't need it. But since the Yoke kit is $35 and a new OEM U-joint is ~$100 (and aftermakret u-joints are junk. These are the one's people complain of breaking) you buy 3 of the kits just for the oem u-joints they come with. Might as well replace the yoke if you have the part, right?
 

1qkfwd

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Messages
209
Location
Sun Valley, NV
If you have one u-joint thats bad, chances are the other ones are on there way out the door. I wouldnt waste the money on the cheapo u-joints either. I had installed one in the rear section of my driveline and it broke on my second pass at the track. It didnt like the 1.4 60'. The factory ones are much stronger, you can tell just by looking at them.
 
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