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Disconnecting WGA for dying 14b. Enter thread for janky solutions.

FlyingEagle

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THE Ottawa
OCV should be minimum "12.6", so it sounds like it came back partially. A quick test at the local store using that capacitance tech should tell you expecting life expectancy.

What type of charger was used?

Didn't realize you were using an AGM. I had a red top years ago that would get to proper voltage but never had proper crankig voltage. Put in a basic wet cell, and my big block had never spun so fast during my ownership.

My newly acquired Bosch rebuilt alternator, see thread here on alternator selection, came with tags stating exactly what I posted earlier.

Thanks for acknowledging the advice, and stating your view on where and why you are doing what you are.

We have a long string of battery, over heat/undercooled, and weak aftermarket internals for Mitsu alternators.
 

jrtech

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Feb 18, 2012
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Mexico Toucher
I have a 58-series in the boot from two Mustangs ago. That one tested good to 500CCA so it will need swapped out in the near future. That one is floating on an automatic Schumacher 2A trickle charger.

The PC680 under the bonnet is always charged using the UNAPPROVED Schumacher old-fashioned buzz box. Odyssey has several instruction manuals on their website now. Charging procedure is different for each battery size and the measured OCV. They sell APPROVED chargers and used to detail specifically the amperage/voltage rate over time used in the micro-controlled chargers. Odyssey was good about providing technical data. OCV is 12.84 for this brand.

I read your thread about alternator selection. I was aware of the heat-death issue so I usually have the hot-side insulated. I threw away the turbo blanket because next time the turbo leaks, I don't want a diaper soaked in oil igniting 30 minutes from the closest fire department. IMHO the OEM ND alternator survived better than what I would expect considering the oil-coated/forced exhaust induction conditions. If I had the shekels, I would throw another 90 amp stock frame on there. But the GM stuff is too cheap and I needed a pigtail because my harness is falling apart every time I open the hood. If you check my previous pics you can see a broken wire on my water neck.
 

jrtech

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Well if I can locate a piece of mild steel around here... (which I cannot at the moment.)

click

Plan to try something like that.

Edit: I have a couple of Ford 3g alternator pulleys around here which might be the same shaft size as the CS130 GM crap. 17mm or ~0.670 But that's assuming the v6 camaro pulley will not clear.
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

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How cheap was the GM unit? Rockauto has reman'd 90 amp units for $75 bucks. web page

Seems like by the time you buy the GM plug, a new belt, and do all the work to rig it up to work, you'd be better off just buying the plug and play unit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

marvinmadman

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Lafayette, Louisiana
Quoting jrtech:
Well if I can locate a piece of mild steel around here... (which I cannot at the moment.)

click

Plan to try something like that.

Edit: I have a couple of Ford 3g alternator pulleys around here which might be the same shaft size as the CS130 GM crap. 17mm or ~0.670 But that's assuming the v6 camaro pulley will not clear.



99 cavalier pulley is what you want
 

jrtech

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You are not wrong sir. I am not trying to persuade, convince or encourage anyone.

So far I am in it for $85. Incl. core and shipping.


There is limited local availability for our alternators the closest one to me is 1:45 away, I couldn't make it that far into downtown Tucson when my VR fried.

If I play this game again I want to be able to buy something off the shelf and change it in the parking lot. Cost be damned. As of now I am waiting until Wed to start slapping it back together.
 

jrtech

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99 cavalier pulley is what you want




Thanks mate, is that due to the width and the alignment? Or the diameter? I see that it is 5-rib.

I haven't read of this one, so please tell me all you can.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting jrtech:

If I play this game again I want to be able to buy something off the shelf and change it in the parking lot.



Oh, you're that guy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

My advice would be return the stuff you have, order the Rockauto unit and perform the repair in the comfort of your own garage. And, as you can see you're already buying different pulleys and sh*t...Mark my words, the project you're undertaking will be a costly ass pain that isn't worth either in the end.

If you still need a new alternator plug for the OEM unit, I probably have one from a donor harness. LMK.
 
Last edited:

marvinmadman

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Smaller diameter and won't hit the frame because it's shorter/less ribs


Quoting jrtech:
99 cavalier pulley is what you want




Thanks mate, is that due to the width and the alignment? Or the diameter? I see that it is 5-rib.

I haven't read of this one, so please tell me all you can.

 

jrtech

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Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Quoting jrtech:

If I play this game again I want to be able to buy something off the shelf and change it in the parking lot.



Oh, you're that guy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

My advice would be return the stuff you have, order the Rockauto unit and perform the repair in the comfort of your own garage. And, as you can see you're already buying different pulleys and sh*t...Mark my words, the project you're undertaking will be a costly ass pain that isn't worth either in the end.

If you still need a new alternator plug for the OEM unit, I probably have one from a donor harness. LMK.




Words marked sir. Thanks for your concern.
 

jrtech

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Performed a test fit today. Took extremely precise measurements with a tape measure. Attempted to make all the material removal happen on the alternator because my numbers matching Talon block is too valuable to be molested. Fashioned a fenestrated drape as to maintain surgical sterility.
No pics of initial mock-up, was covered in mosquito repellent, fiberglass strands, and greasy dirt and didn't feel like it. Has plenty of pivot travel for adjustment.
The 6-rib pulley has + or - 0.5" clearance. I want to run this pulley for reasons that no one cares about. Gonna have to buy my 3rd A/C belt in 10,000 miles because SOMETHING sliced a rib off and I expect it to take every other belt out like it did the first time.






 

iceman69510

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Well that result doesn't look worth the effort.
 

thomcasey

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If that is a GM alternator, then the cooling for it has been compromised by that new hole in the casing. You are not going to hurt a numbers matching block with a little grinding, but that alternator will not last long with that leak for the air-flow. Have you thought about the J-Racing alternator relocation kit? Not only does it make more room up front, it also pulls the alternator away from the exhaust. As the Mitsu alternators suck air for cooling from the rear (so hot exhaust air gets sucked in, melting the VR) it takes the cooling issue away and gives them tons of life.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting jrtech:
Quoting GSTwithPSI:

My advice would be return the stuff you have, order the Rockauto unit and perform the repair in the comfort of your own garage. And, as you can see you're already buying different pulleys and sh*t...Mark my words, the project you're undertaking will be a costly ass pain that isn't worth either in the end.

If you still need a new alternator plug for the OEM unit, I probably have one from a donor harness. LMK.




Words marked sir. Thanks for your concern.



So much for returning the new stuff...Ass pain in progress.
 

jrtech

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Quoting iceman69510:
Well that result doesn't look worth the effort.



It's not sir, don't do it. Stick with the stocker or buy a Bosch if you have the shekels and join the club.

Quoting turbowop:
So much for finding off-the-shelf alternators if you have to modify it like that to fit.



Good call. No mortal would dare swap a case in a parking lot.

Quoting thomcasey:
If that is a GM alternator, then the cooling for it has been compromised by that new hole in the casing. You are not going to hurt a numbers matching block with a little grinding, but that alternator will not last long with that leak for the air-flow. Have you thought about the J-Racing alternator relocation kit? Not only does it make more room up front, it also pulls the alternator away from the exhaust. As the Mitsu alternators suck air for cooling from the rear (so hot exhaust air gets sucked in, melting the VR) it takes the cooling issue away and gives them tons of life.



I like the polite term "compromised". I would call it something more ribald. But I appreciate your tactfulness. I was joking about the numbers matching part, this isn't Barrett-Jackson, Concours d'Elegance stuff we are playing with. You make a good suggestion to anyone with enough money to support Jay Racing. I would politely disagree with you about the additional hole affecting longevity, but I doubt I will be here long enough to share any outcome, so my argument is worth equal to most everything on the internet.

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
So much for returning the new stuff...Ass pain in progress.


Thanks for the encouragement.
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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I have done my own alternator conversion previously, and questioned my own sanity.

But points for keeping your attitude intact, and for using "ribald" in a sentence, even if not exactly applicable.
 

GSTwithPSI

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Quoting jrtech:

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
So much for returning the new stuff...Ass pain in progress.


Thanks for the encouragement.



Anytime!

Perhaps a pictorial representation of how I anticipate this swap working out financially in the end:

 
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