Disconnecting WGA for dying 14b. Enter thread for janky solutions.

[jrtech]

Quoting Imjordan:
I uave a good stock turbo if you need it.



Thanks mate. I appreciate the offer. Transparentdsm already took care of me. Should have her back on the road after the RTV holding everything together cures.

 

[jrtech]

I run a 20G on a stock JDM Evolution with no real 'supporting mods', which I guess would be the stock 510cc injectors, larger FMIC/piping and different MAF/ECU combination. Seems to run fine.



What kind of manifold pressure can you run? What octane?

Evidently the 17c/7cm "just works" with blue top injectors and 1g maf. I was going to leave it alone until I got a Evo 8 ecu swap collected. Reading about the compressor map for "c" wheels makes me not want to put it back on that engine.

 

[turbowop]

Quoting jrtech:


You are so cool. Thanks for the advice! How is your magazine car?



I sense sarcasm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif

 

[Imjordan]

No problem.

 

[jrtech]

Yes sir, it was sarcasm and I apologize for my tone. As I may have neglected to mention, my financial portfolio is rather weak at the moment, otherwise I wouldn't be here begging for charity turbos and trying to bamboozle the ECU to give me more timing so I can ruin my headgasket.

 

[strokin4dr]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I like this guy, wop! Sense of humor, and possibly foreshadowing the future of his engine if he continues down the path he's going. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Post some pics and keep the thread updated with results and hell, I might send you some stuff I have sitting around to help the progress.

 

[fuel]

Quoting jrtech:


I run a 20G on a stock JDM Evolution with no real 'supporting mods', which I guess would be the stock 510cc injectors, larger FMIC/piping and different MAF/ECU combination. Seems to run fine.



What kind of manifold pressure can you run? What octane?

Evidently the 17c/7cm "just works" with blue top injectors and 1g maf. I was going to leave it alone until I got a Evo 8 ecu swap collected. Reading about the compressor map for "c" wheels makes me not want to put it back on that engine.



I'm running 15-16psi which is approaching the limit before it cuts at higher boost in 3rd/4th gear at >6000rpms.

 

[fuel]

what's so special about a 17C wheel anyway? what are the numbers on the compressor housing - could it be a 16G?

 

[jrtech]

Quoting strokin4dr:
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
I like this guy, wop! Sense of humor, and possibly foreshadowing the future of his engine if he continues down the path he's going. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Post some pics and keep the thread updated with results and hell, I might send you some stuff I have sitting around to help the progress.




No one wants to see my clapped out garbage car, especially after the turbo covered my rebuilt engine and trans in sludge.
But if ridicule is what you are after, you won't be disappointed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Just let me bend up some mounts to replace the zip ties holding up my IC first.

 

[jrtech]

Quoting fuel:


I'm running 15-16psi which is approaching the limit before it cuts at higher boost in 3rd/4th gear at >6000rpms.



what's so special about a 17C wheel anyway? what are the numbers on the compressor housing - could it be a 16G?




15-16psi. That's intriguing.

The 17C wheel? Maybe 10-15 years ago someone fell for marketing hype for a frankenturbo? Here is a compressor map for a Syclone. Mind you MINE is crammed into a tdo5h housing.



That map is for this compressor housing I ASSUME.

 

[fuel]

It ran 17psi on the stock big 16g but once the 20g went in it obviously was flowing a lot more. Only mods are K&N filter in stock air can, Evo1-3 exhaust manifold and high flow downpipe. Rest of the exhaust is stock including the rear muffler.

 

[jrtech]

It's surprising to me that the 1g maf and stock ECU will adapt with no tuning. I guess it doesn't go against conventional wisdom if you aren't doing maximum effort-PSI and have 101% duty cycle.

It's handy to know it works with yellow tops.

I have similar stuff: K&N-stock can, 2g ex man, 3"DP. I have never tried past 14psi. Only time I found fuel cut was by accident after sealing up all the boost leaks and diagnosing the lack of manual boost increase I left the MBC set to self-destruct. I am on a first name basis with my machine shop guy now.

 

[jrtech]

Here's another comparison of the 14B to 17C for posterity. The beastly 14B in it's new forever home. Intercooler saved a half-pint of oil.

 

[fuel]

The compressor housing for the "17c" bears part numbers for the Evo III big 16G and it looks to be a genuine MHI housing too. But I suppose it could have been machined. I forgot the G wheels have staggered blades so I guess it counts out the 16G.

I would look at rebuilding that turbo with new seals and bearings and see how it goes. What does the hot side look like?

 

[jrtech]

The numbers match a 16G turbine housing. Has the three chestnuts symbol and casting number is 13700 070 something like that. P.O. didn't mention it. P.O. had one of every DSM (Talon, Eclipse, Laser, FWD, AWD, 1g, 2g, auto, stick), a couple 3kgts and was selling a Starion as well. So maybe less is more when you are dealing with unknown craigslist buyers who fly in to buy your car. Not everyone is going to understand or be comfortable with a turbo that has been "monkeyed with".

My rebuild kit is still in the mail and I haven't decided what to do. It's all just bench racing until I get money in my hand.

 

[fuel]

if you're looking for other options Kinugawa turbo will sell a 20G wheel with matched housing (same part number as Evo III housing for more stealth). I'm running this combo on my stock TD05H 7cm hot side with the turbine clipped about 7deg. It was also rekitted with new seals and bearings etc - cost about $300 all up. Details of it in my member showcase thread.

 

[jrtech]

That is a sharp car, I particularly like the action shots where it's being pushed.

When I get squared away, we'll talk turbo. Inspecting my radiator while it was apart has me concerned about the original brass core so I have other priorities. Weather has been over 37*C and will only get more taxing. Driving through bat-country is a regular commute so I can't afford a mishap.

 

[jrtech]

She passed 180,000 mi today while doing the mountain commute! 14B running great.

Unfortunately the voltage regulator fried today. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Engine died twice but by some MIRACLE made it back to the driveway without being able to roll up the window.


Edit: Ordered 95 Camaro alternator and 85854 Dorman pigtail. Batteries charging. Showed less than 8 volts!

 

[FlyingEagle]

Now that you have a new alternator and pigtail, please do yourself (by that I mean your new alternator) a huge favor: buy a brand new freshly charged battery to complete the system overhaul!

Deep cycling a non-deep cycle battery can't be good for it and if the alternators guts have to play catchup for any length of time, and in a superheated environment, it won't be too happy with you. Maybe Saturn/GM alternators are more forgiving, but the premise holds true.

 

[jrtech]

Thanks FlyingEagle. ^ That is genuinely good advice.

Open circuit voltage on the wet-cell is 12.47 and it has some life left. The AGM is fairly tolerant of deep-cycles. DO NOT MIX TYPES AND SIZES AND AGES OF BATTERIES.

I pray to God that no one follows my example as the correct way to do things. Should I put a warning in my sig?