Degree-ing cams

[chucklesas]

Hey all,

So I'm trying to put this engine together and figure (since I've blown so many up) that I should try to do things the right way. Any idea if this kit from Summit Racing would work for our engines?

Second question, where might I be able to source a solid lifter from? I guess I could always just try tack-welding an old lifter I have around, but if I'm ordering parts anyway... I've been browsing through SlowBoy and ExtremePSI, but hadn't found anything yet.

EDIT: Just for clarification, I do not plan on running solid lifters, I just want a couple for use in degreeing my cams. Thanks.

 

[chucklesas]

By the way, here's a really good article on degreeing cams: 4g63turbo article

 

Honestly, the most hp I've witnessed by degreeing a 4g63 is ~6whp. I would spend my $250-$300 elsewhere like maintainance.

 

[chucklesas]

Well, I had the Fidanza Cam Gears from a previous build (I picked them up super cheap at the time) and I have FP3 cams in an unknown condition head and block (as far as any machine work done to them) with some non-stock valves and a 4G64 crank. Sure, I'll have to pay for the tools ($85 or so), other than that, the only other cost for me at this point is my time, and I'm not on any time schedule to complete this project.

I will probably break down and find some shims at a local RC hobby store and take apart a couple lash adjusters and just build them up that way.

 

[464/2K]

That write up is pretty spot on. In my power and performance class I'm in at the moment, they(UTI) teaches the same way.

 

Don't get me wrong, they can't hurt. Most times adj cam gears are lighter than factory & that alone makes it worth it.

 

[464/2K]

Yeah I dunno about the 4g... But I'm doing this currently on a 350 small block. Hopefully I can report back with how they do on my car when I get back home. Hoping to increase low end tq because before 4k she's gutless.

 

Just a thought here but how many times have you seen 4g63's with adj cam gears set @ zero. There's a reason for it.

 

[chucklesas]

I thought that was just because that's how they come out of the box... nobody bothers to properly degree them.

 

[89coltgt]

They are zeroed because people buy them for the look and don't bother to degree them.

 

Degreeing cams isn't just about peak horsepower, its also about adjusting the powerband to suit different needs.

 

[slugsgomoo]

generally speaking unless you need to move the powerband or change how it reacts, degreeing really won't buy you a whole lot. Cams like FP3's work great straight up honestly- one of the local guys has a set in a 2.3L with a 35R and is making over 720 @ 31psi on E85+meth, camgears are at 0* /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Hell, I'm going to put mine in at 0* just because they're lighter, look better and I can't run a top cover on the 2.4L so i can't hide the fugly stock gears on my motor, plus I got 'em in trade ftw /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[chucklesas]

Well, if I can help low end spool at all, then it's a benefit. I mean, this is a 2.3 anyway, so top-end really isn't as much of a concern as low end. I don't plan on revving much passed 7000RPM, even during spirited driving.

 

[prove_it]

Degree'ing cams also help the engine to work at a higher effiency. More effienct engines use a bit less gas and run cleaner. Well built engines are timed exactly for a reason. My two cents is that it's not worth it on street engines cause I have seen too many cam gears slip and bend valves and they are even brand name like HKS.

 

I'll agree on a race car it would be worth it as you're trying to squeeeeeeezzzzzeee every ounce of hp out of the motor & your powerband is absolutely critical @ a certain point. On a daily driver your $$ could be spent elswhere.