Damn Clutch issue

[Lancer99]

Short story, My dad was driving his 91 eclipse gsx on the highway when he downshifted to pass someone and when he shift back into fifth gear it wouldn't go in and he forced it in. Since then it wont shift into the gears at all and you have to force it in all the time, also you have to put it in 1st gear and then start it up to get it going. Heres the run down of what I did, first I replaced the slave cylinder, and nothing. Second I replaced and master cylinder, again nothing. Third, I knew it was alot of work but I did it anyways, what I did was I replaced the gear box with the a bad forth gear thinking if it work then I would drive it but without a forth gear. But yet again nothing and the same is going on. I did not replace the clutch because I looked at and it was still good, and it should be because it was repalced 10,000 miles ago but it also has been like 5-6 years since the replacement of the clutch. And there is no leaks in the lines either. Anyone have a clue what I can do next or have any advice?

 

How is your clutch linkage under the dash. Many people have to rebuild them or replace them. That could very well be your issue.

 

[Lancer99]

Didn't think about the linkages. But what happens to them? I never had a problem so what should I look for?

 

[Mark LaVallee]

The clutch operates a bellcrank. It is keyed onto the pedal shaft and retained by a nut. The pedal shaft hammers the inside of the "fluid lever" and makes it so you push in the pedal and get no master cylinder actuation.

JNZ's got a pedal box rebuild kit with a new pedal, lever and bushings.

It's a FUN job.

 

[Lancer99]

^ I thought replacing the master cylinder was going to be easy, just like the GVR4 but nope, no where near and I did when there was still snow on the ground.

 

[Wizardawd]

To save time and make it a lot less of a hassle, just unscrew the adjustment rod all the way from the bracket. I know it comes with a new one, but there is no reason to replace that part anyways. Then it's just undoing the clutch line, the 2 bolts on the firewall and that's it.

The pedal assembly is a whole different story though, done a few of those and you're right. That really sucks. Bad enough there is no room in a DSM let alone enough to remove the steering column, underdash, etc.

Wiz

 

[boosted_85]

When the tran was off, did you check the clutch to see if the clutch springs were still intact and not jamming the pressure plate?

 

[Lancer99]

^no, I didnt check and make sure the springs were jamming on the plate. But Im more leaning towards the pedal assembly box.

 

[Wizardawd]

Here's a good way to check, push the clutch several times. Then, reach down and see if you can pull the pedal up further. If so, it's worn.

Wiz

 

[thecman02]

FYI the Rebuild Kit at JNZ is out of stock.

Hi Chris,
Currently there are no Galant specific levers in the country. It could take up to a month until more arrive. Would you like us to proceed with the order or cancel it?
Thanks,
JNZ

I just ordered a 1g setup from Shep because I was hoping the setup will work in our Galant? If anyone can give me a definite answer on that I'd appreciate it.

 

[Wizardawd]

you could just weld it like most 1g owners do. Usually the lever AND shaft are wore on 1g's so a new arm doesn't totally fix the problem. And even if it just happens to be just the arm, heavy clutches just make it wear out even faster. So they just weld it up for a permanent and cheaper fix.

click

click

Wiz

 

[thecman02]

That's why I liked the Shep solution because it already comes welded and with brass bushings which will probably last much longer then the plastic bushings. I just haven't found a definitive answer on the assembly working. I'll be bummed if I have to send it back.

 

[Wizardawd]

Bad news, I just compared the 2, the GVR4 is different. It's a lot longer and the return spring mounts different.

Wiz

 

[thecman02]

Okay. :-( O well. Guess I'll just have Shep ship just bushings.

 

[Lancer99]

Okay so I just pumped the clutch pedal a few times and let it up slowly to were it would stop on its own but the spring pushes it up all the way and there is no play in the pedal, at least in my point of view. If anyone could swing by and take a quick peek at it that would be greatful.

 

[willyp20]

Get under the dash and look up at the clutch mastercylinder. Action the pedal and see if there is motion at MC. Normally it only happens right at the top of the action. You wil be able to tell if it is warn this way. If I could have video taped the three that I have done I would have. Dont waste your time rebuilding it. Just weld it, Its a perm fix...

 

[Lancer99]

^Thanks. Checking it like that was hard but its doing it. Sweet I'm going to have a fun project this summer...taking the motor out again and switch tranmissions, do the timing belt and idlers, the pedal assembly and most likely send it to shep since my welds wouldn't save my life for anytinhg, and trying to find a seat track since somehow this one rusted and now is stuck in one position. yay can't wait.

 

[thecman02]

It'll be worth it though!

 

[Lancer99]

Bring this back. I finally got to the car and now im getting the motor out. Anyways my question is what is the best way to take the clutch pedal assembly out?

 

[Lancer99]

Got married last week and now were going on our honey moon and I finally got the pedal assembly. But it seems to be in good shape but it also followed all the symptoms of it being worn out. Here are two pictures can anyone tell and see if its worn out?

***I uploaded these through tinypic.com not here because I still can't do it***