Starts in gear...

[Lancer99]

Ok so I got everything done from the last thread that I put up(Damn Clutch Issue). Anyways I got the orignal transmission in and got the clutch pedal assembly fixed. Now the clutch works the way it should but everytime that I start the car its in gear and the wheels move, but the shifter knob says its in netrual. When I shift into 1st or 2nd gear and let go of the clutch pedal the engine stalls but the wheels don't move, the wheels only move in netrual. Everything I did was replaced clutch master and slave cylinders, and checked the shifter linkages. The only thing I can think of is the trasmission is messed up inside but what could cause this?

 

[jepherz]

it sounds like your shifter mechanism is not adjusted properly. Unhook your shifter cables from the transmission and manually put the tranny into neutral. Then, paying attention to the fact you can't change gears, start the car and see if it's actually in neutral.

 

[Lancer99]

Thats what I was thinking, was that the shifter cables were not alinged right.

 

[mitsuturbo]

If the car DIES when you put it into 1st or 2nd, you likely have a broken shift rail or shift fork, and it's stuck in 3/4 or even 5/R.

I would suspect your transmission is stuck in another gear, when you put it into 1/2, it's then in 2 gears.. which will get you nowhere.

 

[Wizardawd]

Like they said, but to narrow it down, eliminate the shifter/cables and shift it at the transmission directly. If it still is locked in a gear or between gears, it's internal. I have seen quite a few 1g trannies that for some mysterious reason the retaining pin on the 1-2 shift fork falls out. Easy fix really, just odd and you still have to take the trans apart.

Wiz

 

[Lancer99]

Also before I start with shifter cables, I have taken the shifter cables off and by hand shifted the through the gears and I hear them going in and out. But with the shift fork broken would it be able to do that?

 

[jepherz]

The shift fork problem would be internal to the tranny case, so it would behave the same way even with the shift cables taken off.

 

[Lancer99]

Ok so I just got in and it does the samething even though I took the shifter cables off and manually put it into neutral and put into all the gears even reverse. So I assume that it could be one the shift forks? So who would like to help me and teach me to rip the trans apart and replace them and put it all together? Anyone?

 

[mitsuturbo]

Pull the transmission.
Have a 36mm socket handy.. the rest comes naturally. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Lancer99]

So I have to buy 36mm socket, would that for an impact or rachet? I know it will come naturally but I rather be on the safe side and not f-up. It couldn't be any worse than like my buddy who kept on pulling the tranny (I think like six times) before he realized that the pin was moving back and forth.

 

[Lancer99]

O and also where would I get a rebuilt kit or parts for this?

 

[jepherz]

jacks transmissions.

There is a how-to on welding the center diff that you can look through. Following that will get you far enough to see the forks and diagnose the problem.

 

[mitsuturbo]

It will have to be for impact. It's damn near impossible to get the end nuts off by hand.
You're going to need a roll pin punch, too. I believe a 3/16" is what i use.

You can get parts from Jack's. TRE (teamrip.com) also sells individual parts, i believe.

 

[Lancer99]

I have a punch already so im good there. Damn I really want to do this but I don't know what Im going to look for, as in damage or broken or worn out parts. Any advice on parts I should get first like seals, or little odds and ends?

 

[mitsuturbo]

pitted bearing races
broken shift rail ends
broken shift forks
missing roll pins

That's about all you can look at without pressing things apart.
You can typically get the 1/2 hub/gear/slider/synchro assembly after you pull a circlip and drive the intermediate shaft out of the bearing. This can be done by holding the bearing with your hand while tapping the intermediate shaft with a mallet, or having someone else do it with a pin and hammer. I've actually gotten them apart by holding the bearing and driving the shaft out with an air hammer.
After doing this, at least you can replace hub/slider/synchros on 1/2 while you've got it apart (as well as that bearing, which seems to usually experience the most wear). I have however, had that bearing not want to come off. After a little heat and some more coercing, it slid off though.

As far as i can remember, the rest of the bearings and such will NOT come off without using a press.