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I guess give it a whirl then? Just copy the shape of the factory bar with more stout material. It probably won't be worth your time, but sometimes doing something yourself and learning something is worth the extra expense. I think people have modified stock bars (not that I've seen on vr4's) to strengthen them.
The thing you have to be careful of is that you can't just take a random piece of bar that is a little bigger than the factor bar and bend it to fit. You have to know the physical properties of the bar so you get the spring rate you want. The material, hardening (heat or work hardening), and shape affect the spring rate.
Also, you will probably need to use solid bar, not tubing/pipe.
I'm kinda skeptical about doing this yourself. It might be waaaay more work than it is worth.
It's actually really cool to see these things made. The straight bars come out of a furnace red hot, and are bent up by a robot in about 3 seconds. It's crazy. I even saw one place where they were moved from the bender to the quench fixture by hand. Just a guy with a set of tongs standing on the edge of a boiling pit, holding a red-hot piece of steel. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
All good info folks. The spring rate and metal type were big concerns of mine. Probably a bit bigger a bite than I'm able to chew. So I guess the search will continue on some sway bars for 1968. Any leads?
I haven't made it to mine yet but a 94/95 Mustang GT rear bar lines up almost perfect with the stock rear. All that has to be done is cut off the factory ends about 8 inches long and cut off the ends of the mustang and sleeve the two together with some small steel tubing. Do a search under my name I post pictures a few years back. Curtis