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Custom IC piping, any one pulled it off?

this is probably a stupid question, but what is the device between the two orange expanders?
 

I have these 2. I can take more if someone wants to see something specific. I tried to get a good shot that showed the piping behing the headlight on the pass side, but there isn't much room. The NPR had four mounting tabs on it, i just cut the bumper support and drilled holes to match and then cut off the bottom tabs on the IC. I did need to trim the headlight bracket quite a bit, i was a bit worried about it not having enough support and shaking at speed, but after i bolted the headlight in, it firmed it right up.

 

sleepyvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2003
Messages
2,359
Location
Key West
some bumper hacking was required, some hacking of thin metal under both headlights (absolutely nothing was supported by this metal)

three steel 90 degree mandrel bends, two 2.5" steel straight pieces (one for bov), straight 2.5" silicon connectors, one 2.5" silicon 90 elbow, one 2.5" silicon 45 degree elbow, NT throttle body, gm maf in blow though with 3.25" to 2.5" silicon reducers, custom tdo5 compressor housing, t-bolt clamps.

gvr007.jpg


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fmic001.jpg


fmic2002.jpg


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I finally used this wrap I had lying around ($15 for 50 ft)

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here's some pics of mine for thoes of you out there who have the rre radiator.
hope this helps. i'ts 2.75'' post ic and 2.5 pre ic. i made it this way in anticipation of a manifold and a large turbo
Pete
 

You can do short route. It is easy if you don't mind putting a bit of work into it.

Needed:

Any 1g 2.5in "short route" FMIC pipe kit (I used lucas english's kit)
Any 1g "short route" FMIC

Modification you need to do to your VR4?
- Use torch/plasma cutter to remove material from the front sheetmetal around the bottom left/right of each side of your radiator area. This allows the short route pipes room to make it. The passenger side needs very little removed, you can squeeze the 2.5" pipe easily by bending in the superficial fins in the end of your radiator. The drivers side needs a bit more material taken off to allow piping to sneak by. But still this is very minimal.

-The 1g 14b/16g outlet pipe needs to be fabbed a bit to keep it from hitting the much closer vr4 radiator.

-Bumper support may need cut in order to fit thicker intercoolers. I cut out the middle of mine to retain fog lights nicely.


Here are a few pictures of the setup. I did it for pretty cheap (800ish bucks) and it is by far the "shortest" and best imo FMIC setup you can do for your VR4




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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

spooling92vr4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,511
Location
long island, NY
I went the "long route" with my car because the intercooler fired that way, it would have been ridiculous to do it any other way...

this is a basic Dave Brode core, with custom 2.5 inch "cold side" i ended up having to have the hot side modified to come out straight rather then over the manifold like stock galants, look at the pics it will be obvious why. these pics are just the mock up of the pipes they are all just tack welded. as you can see in the last pic i built an intake as-well ( by the time that was done the piping already started to get surface rust on them) in a few more days all the piping is going to the powder coater anyway.
 

4Grim

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 30, 2004
Messages
2,515
Location
Orlando FL
I switched to a N/T throttleMe and my friend did the new I/C piping setup ourselves...we spent around $300 in pipes, tbolt clamps and silicon couplers. I went with a short route setup and I believe we used the following:

(3) 90* mandrel bend pipes
(1) U bend pipe
(2-3) straight pipes

All pipes are 2.5" in diamter.

I bought my silicon couplers from ATP turbo online and my Tbolt clamps I bought locally. It took a good FULL day to finish the piping. It wasnt that hard actually...but I guess it helps when you have somebody who has done alot of custom I/C piping setups.

Here are a couple pics of the current setup:
img.php

img.php

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I also did my I/C piping on my 96 Galant:
img20900cz.th.jpg
 

DSMTurbo2

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
261
Location
Traverse City
Here was the setup I just ran. Trimed the rad a bit but didnt move it.
Core is a bar and plate 9?x26x3.5.
piping is 2.5 mild steel (hey I did it myself)
2g t body elbow.





I will try to get some more pics with the bumper off soon if someone wants them. Erik O.
 
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