Clutch Pedal Assembly Removal Trouble

[KiNgMaRtY]

So I started pulling out my clutch pedal assembly this morning. I got it unbolted, dropped the stealing column, disconnected the befalls from the rods and pulled the mastercylinders back. The brake master cylinder doesn't go very far back. When I try to wiggle the assembly out it won't clear the mater cylinder rod fork. I then can't pull it out enough to clear it because the top of the assembly hits the bracket the would hold up the under dash cover/ holds up the little fuse box.

Am I missing something.?

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

Master Cylinder Puller back as far as it would go



Inside view of Master Cylinder Fork


Bracket that hits pedal assembly

 

[EHmotorsports]

That is the brake booster rod. Remove the two nuts on the master cyl to brake booster and seperate from booster. Move master cyl as far out of the way without kinking the brake lines. Then angle the booster and pull it the rest of the way out.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I didn't unbolt the brake master from the booster when I removed mine, it wasn't needed.

Quoting KiNgMaRtY:
So I started pulling out my clutch pedal assembly this morning. I got it unbolted, dropped the stealing column, disconnected the befalls from the rods and pulled the mastercylinders back. The brake master cylinder doesn't go very far back. When I try to wiggle the assembly out it won't clear the mater cylinder rod fork. I then can't pull it out enough to clear it because the top of the assembly hits the bracket the would hold up the under dash cover/ holds up the little fuse box.

Am I missing something.?



When I removed mine, I pretty much did exactly what you said. Once the brake and clutch masters are loose, I pulled them away from the bulkhead as far as possible.

You have to remove both C brackets (rod forks) from both the clutch and brake master adjuster rods. I had the same clearance issues you are having, and found that removing both brackets gives the the wiggle room you need.

Here is a how to that may help as well:
click

I did not have to remove the fuse box like this write up says to.

 

[KiNgMaRtY]

Thank you! That did the trick and gave that extra little wiggle from that I needed to get it out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Sending it out to Shepard. It really doesn't have play that I can tell but going through a process of elimination for my really low engagement point.

As I was pulling the assembly out, looks like I pulled out the speedo cable from the back of the cluster /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[EHmotorsports]

Reason I recommended unbolting the master is now he will have to readjust the brake booster rod. Wasn't needed with what I recommended.

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting KiNgMaRtY:
Thank you! That did the trick and gave that extra little wiggle from that I needed to get it out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Sending it out to Shepard. It really doesn't have play that I can tell but going through a process of elimination for my really low engagement point.

As I was pulling the assembly out, looks like I pulled out the speedo cable from the back of the cluster /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif



i had this problem, you cant really see the problem, but if you hold the arm and move the pedal you can see the play. i just took mine apart grinded the thing down and welded it, completely eliminating the need for the nut and washer on the end. im pretty happy with what i did and it didnt cost me anything..

 

[DynastyLCD]

the only problem with that Shane, is that if there's enough play, you could possibly weld it at the incorrect angle. i prefer to start with BNIB stuff, then use a locking exhaust nut, loctite, and an impact gun. worked well for me so far

 

[donniekak]

If its not welded, it will eventually fail again.

What I do is have brass bushings made at the machine shop for the tube, and have a grease fitting installed. Then, the clutch arm is pushed to the most forward position in the wallowed out hole, and welded. After this, the clutch rod has to be adjusted about halfway in to prevent overextending the pressure plate fingers. The first time I did this mod, I was amazed how much better my car shifted at 8,000 rpms.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Quoting EHmotorsports:
Reason I recommended unbolting the master is now he will have to readjust the brake booster rod. Wasn't needed with what I recommended.



Yeah, good point. I marked the position of the C bracket on the adjuster the rod to avoild this. I forgot to mention that, and he will have to adjust the rod if he didn't mark it.

 

[transparentdsm]

Quoting DynastyLCD:
the only problem with that Shane, is that if there's enough play, you could possibly weld it at the incorrect angle. i prefer to start with BNIB stuff, then use a locking exhaust nut, loctite, and an impact gun. worked well for me so far



i lock the old arm in place with a shim. lay on the floor and press the arm in by hand, put two shims in(one top one bottom) then disassemble everything. take it to my basement, grind it all down and weld it up so it can never happen again, only real problem is keeping the bushing cool while getting the arm hot enough to weld. it took a little bit of work but its doable. also you can replace the plastic bushing with a copper one and weld it up that way.