cleaning up coolant lines, vaccum lines and wires... help me

[Boostin21]

I have a few coolant lines off the water pipe i would like to clean up. the car is pretty much intended to be a race car... occasional street use. The TB is stripped and there is no heat. So what do i do with the extra lines?
Then theres the vaccum lines, what are some of you guys doing off of the intake manifold? Should i run a vaccum manifold?

Now wiring... I hate wiring... Wires are gay IMO...
I want to clean it up but dont feel like tucking the harness. Anyone strip their harness down? Any factory harness' i can use like non-turbo DSMs/Galants? I dont need the fuel pressure solenoid plug/wires as i am running an AFPR and yada yada.
Especially the harness going to the thermostat housing. What can i eliminate?


i just want to simplify anything i can. Pics are a huge plus. I am wiring illiterate. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

Thanks guys.

 

[GVR4_1057]

If you get the 1990 water pipe it does not have the water barb on the bottom toward the front of the engine. They all have the tb coolant barb though. I cut mine off and tig welded a small patch over the hole. They are brazed in from the factory (barbs)and you have to clean all of that off before you weld. It is a neat trick if you have the resources.

 

[NateCrisman]

If the car is not going to use a heater core, then I would take the water pipe to a welder. have him cut off the whole branch going tward the firewall and weld it shut.

All of the water connections on the thermostat housing that supply the throttle body and heater core can be unscrewed and plugged with pipe thread plugs.

As for wiring on the Tstat area, you can cut out the plug that went to the AC temp sensor on top of the housing. There is also an egr plastic vacuum switch on the thermostat housing that can be removed and plugged (it's often just sitting there broken anyway).

If your using a non water cooled turbo or changing to an external oil cooler, there are 2 more water line nippes to remove. One on he water pipe (use a 90 water pipe, or have welder block that one too) and a brass tube on the Tstat housing. The tube on the tstat housing can be crushed and pulled out with pliers, tap the hole for 1/8npt, and plugged.

 

[14u2nV]

This is how my vac lines are setup.

 

use the Non-turbo water pipe and the "race" route for your vacuume lines which is pictured above... it works good and is nice and clean.

 

[strokin4dr]

CLICK Havent updated this thread in forever, but that should give you an idea of what is involved.
-Ryan

 

One thing to keep in mind though: If you remove the coolant lines to the throttlebody the FAIV will take forever to warm up, so your idle will go crazy high. The right way to do it is to also block off the FAIV or fill it with JB Weld, like I did. I actually preferred it that way, since my FAIV was always hyperactive, but I live in Florida.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

Quoting 14u2nV:
This is how my vac lines are setup.

Should we run the brake booster off the intake manifold? If you are going to race a car you don't want the booster to see boost instead of vacum, you wont have "power brakes" during heal toe sittuations. I saw an evo wreck at summit from that at this years time attack.

 

You could simply run a one way check valve inline so it could pull air but not push boost.

 

[jepherz]

The stock hose has a check valve, doesn't it?

 

[Rausch]

^ Yes it does.

 

makes sense that it would.

 

[fivestardsm]

Quoting jepherz:
The stock hose has a check valve, doesn't it?



The valve is in the brake booster main vac line where the hose attaches to the booster.