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burning 1 quart of oil every 400 miles

holeshotmoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
I vote other, for stem seals. Did you do them or someone else? My GGSX did exactly what you described until I put new seals in. Sit at a light for a minute, it goes green, then fog bank time. People would give me the nastiest expressions, hacking, as they passed me on the double yellow to get fresh air. I would sometimes turn the car off at long lights. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 

Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
I'll go over the PCV system with a fine tooth comb, the only thing I can see as a possibility is if the
PCV valve itself is jammed shut. I don't see any way I could have missed any other possible blockages in the system. By Monday we should stop seeing snow here, and I'll be able to start digging into this issue.

So far my plan of attack is to confirm PCV funtion, and then pull the turbo out of the turbine housing and look for a caked on burnt up mess.

EDIT: I did the valve seals myself, just as have done dozens of time before. I don't see how I could have screwed them up. It seems like people are misunderstanding me here; it can idle at a light for a long time and pull away without smoking, but if I launch the car, wide open throttle (tiny turbo full boost at 2700 rpm) it will leave a little cloud behind. I've pretty well confirmed over the previous 8000 miles that the vast majority of the oil disappears when I'm cruising at 3500+ rpm. At that speed though it dilutes the smoke so much, that I can't see it by looking in the mirror. If it were leaking out of the engine at that rate, I would be washing oil off the back of the car, or I would have fire on top of my exhaust manifold, neither has happened.
 
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IncorpoRatedX

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Joined
May 28, 2003
Messages
5,593
Location
Arizona
I second the PCV, had it happen years ago, burned oil at weird times and it wasnt stuck one way or the other, it was sticking at random.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
That's one issue that aftermarket PCV valves will cause.
 

Coltsfan

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May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
I sure hope that's it. I'll swap out the PCV valve tomorrow and drive somewhere this weekend. If I burned all that oil this winter because of a PCV valve... Well, we'll see LOL.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Then you wouldn't be the first. Make sure you swap with a genuine Mitsu PCV. Like I said, aftermarkets are known to have issues.
 

Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
Just an update in case anyone is following this: I changed the PCV valve with one from one of my many parts engines, but I haven't had a chance to drive it anywhere far yet. Too busy fixing customers cars. I did leave a little cloud standing in the spot I launched from one time since then, but still that only happens about one out of five times, so no change to report there.

Meantime, my turbo rebuild kit arrived from Turbo Lab.

Ps. When driving my Colt the other day, it dawned on me that the Galant engine rolls over a lot longer after I shut off the key. Maybe it's the heavy stock flywheel, maybe it has no compression... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
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Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
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200
Location
Tonawanda
No difference with the PCV valve. I drove 2.5 hours round trip to go snowboarding, and it moved from the middle of the safe area, to the bottom of the safe area.

I'm looking at pistons with black anodized tops on Rockauto that look just like NPR pistons but they're called DNJ engine components. Anyone have any experience with those?
 
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clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
I have used some dnj timing components for my old toyota truck I had. They seemed decent. I would just check the specs before install
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Cheap pistons tend to not hold power well.
 

Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
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200
Location
Tonawanda
I have no plans of going big with this engine, and I don't want forged pistons because sometimes I like to hop in my cold DD and just drive off after 5-10 seconds. My first choice would be OEM pistons, but I can't see shelling out the ~400% markup that the auto manufacturers get. Anyone know who actually makes the OEM pistons? Or are they actually made in house by Mitsubishi?
EDIT: Dumb question LOL
 
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iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
10,964
Location
Michigan
NPR seem to be not bad. Not sure if they are exactly the same as stock, but I think NPR made some of the stock ones for Mitsubishi.
 

Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
I ordered it! .020 over pistons with pins & rings, rod bearings, main bearings, BS bearings (I'm putting a set back in) lower gasket set, and a permadry head gasket, all for $230 shipped. Probably spend a little under $200 in machine work. How is that for budget build?
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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Sioux Falls, SD
Very good deal, as long it's a stocker then it should hold up.
 

Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
I got most of my parts today. The pistons are clearly NRP (Nippon), but it turns out that they didn't come with rings. I found a set of Beck/Arnley rings for $18 on closeout, so no biggie there.

I have my doubts about this rod bearing set:
SU1BRzAyODRfQlVSU1QwMDIuanBn_zpscb2d27fd.jpg
 

thomcasey

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Joined
Sep 24, 2014
Messages
907
Location
Indianapolis, IN
So, apparently some folks that package in the MFG plant cannot count.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
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4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Discounted parts......
 

Coltsfan

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
200
Location
Tonawanda
Unfortunately I have this problem a lot when I select the wholesaler closeouts. They already shipped the replacement though, and I have my fingers crossed for the $18 piston ring set.
 
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