gvr4ever
Well-known member
How are you guys lowering the engine to remove the front balance shaft? I'm guessing using a jack, but where are you putting the pressure?
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BS removal tips.
- Thread startergvr4ever
- Start date
Barnes
Well-known member
I've never done the procedure myself, but I'm pretty sure it is impossible to remove the front balance shaft with the engine in the car. Why not just leave it in with the belt off and go ahead and remove the rear shaft? Only other option I can think is to cut it in pieces. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
jepherz
Staff member
+1, I'm about to do this procedure and I just plan on pulling the REAR shaft.
Barnes
Well-known member
And by 'I've never done this procedure myself', I mean that I've never pulled B-shafts with the motor in the car. Only done it with the motor out.
solidviper89
Well-known member
I did it and wasn't too bad... both BS shafts
Just drop driver and front mount...
Get a sharp saw saw blade to cut shaft /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
cut it, pull BS shaft out a bit, cut it, rinse and repeat... took me 3 cuts
a torch would be super helpful... and this tool is good to put bearings back in Harbor freight
get extra bearing for when you FUBAR one.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ask me how i know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif
Just drop driver and front mount...
Get a sharp saw saw blade to cut shaft /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
cut it, pull BS shaft out a bit, cut it, rinse and repeat... took me 3 cuts
a torch would be super helpful... and this tool is good to put bearings back in Harbor freight
get extra bearing for when you FUBAR one.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ask me how i know /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif
Hmm.. Glad I read this thread, maybe I could be of some help. I just recently pulled both balance shafts this past week. Hoping you maybe have a lift you can use. I placed the pole jack in the front center of the frame and took the two bolts out. On the left side, you must remove both sub frame bolts. Then used a transmission jack and lifted the transmission side up a little bit. After doing that, you should have enough clearance to clear the body panel that hangs down and blocks you from removing it straight out. I wish I had pictures to explain which bolts. I had just enough angle to turn the front shaft where the balance side interferes with easy removal. Just remember to rotate bearings you're going to re-install 180 degrees of the oil hole for both inner and outer front shaft. I used the steel cap method in the outer front shaft bearing. Since my balance shaft seized the inner bearing, I had to apply jb weld on the inner bearing. It was a project for me, I replaced the oil pump while I was at it. Have fun, take a look at some of my photos in the General Bulletin: 978/1000: MD Rebuild
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turbowop
Well-known member
+1 on leaving the front shaft in. It's that way on both my cars.
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
Leave front shaft in and saves you ALOT of time. Your not gaining anything by taking the front shaft out to begin with so... whats the point?
I actually thought about keeping the front shaft in, facing the same dilemma. I didn't want to save time, I wanted it to be right. It's anyone's opinion. I took out the front shaft because I found a seized bearing and it had to be addressed or else the engine would have slight oil pressure loss. I blocked off both bearings and capped the new oil pump's front shaft hole and used a short bolt with loctite blue where the balance shaft tensioner pully was. It does shed a few pounds to those who're in to weight reduction. For me, I don't half-arse my car. Balance shaft costed me $1000 more in parts alone, least I can do it have them out the car to beat someone with...
turbowop
Well-known member
So are my cars considered half-assed because I left the front shaft in? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
Essentially, if you do not have seized front shaft bearings, leaving the front shaft in is good for oil pressure control.
1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
978GVR4, what kind of bearing? Front BS bearing or crank bearing? And if BS bearing, how was the seized bearing affecting your oil pressure?
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gvr4ever
Well-known member
Quoting iceman69510:
Essentially, if you do not have seized front shaft bearings, leaving the front shaft in is good for oil pressure control.
I thought blocking the front oil passage way raised oil pressure. I have a slight lifter tick /phantom knock issue at low RPMs. It's random and I suspect the oil pressure drops too low. I have the revised lifters and the current tune/setup used to work perfect. It doesn't happen too often, but when it does, it just ruins low end power. I can hear the lifters some times, so I don't have any reason to suspect real knock.
Essentially, if you do not have seized front shaft bearings, leaving the front shaft in is good for oil pressure control.
I thought blocking the front oil passage way raised oil pressure. I have a slight lifter tick /phantom knock issue at low RPMs. It's random and I suspect the oil pressure drops too low. I have the revised lifters and the current tune/setup used to work perfect. It doesn't happen too often, but when it does, it just ruins low end power. I can hear the lifters some times, so I don't have any reason to suspect real knock.
Barnes
Well-known member
Unless you port/modify your oil relief valve on the oil filter housing, you could create a high oil pressure situation. Leaving the front shaft in with the bearing helps alleviate this.
Brianawd
Well-known member
Quote:
Unless you port/modify your oil relief valve on the oil filter housing, you could create a high oil pressure situation. Leaving the front shaft in with the bearing helps alleviate this.
I really don't think having high oil pressure is that bad of a situation. I ran a motor for 7years with no bshafts and a unported oil filter housing. When that motor gave up I pulled it a part and the bearings look brand new like the day I put them in. The motor that is in my car now has a unported oil filter housing to.
Unless you port/modify your oil relief valve on the oil filter housing, you could create a high oil pressure situation. Leaving the front shaft in with the bearing helps alleviate this.
I really don't think having high oil pressure is that bad of a situation. I ran a motor for 7years with no bshafts and a unported oil filter housing. When that motor gave up I pulled it a part and the bearings look brand new like the day I put them in. The motor that is in my car now has a unported oil filter housing to.
Barnes
Well-known member
I know what you're saying Brian. But I do remember someone here that had weird bearing failures that seemed to be due to high oil pressure. That being said, I think most would be fine with the extra pressure. I've been running blocked off b-shaft bearings and an unported oil filter housing in my black car for years. No problems either.
I had wierd bearings from to high of oil pressure, but the main reason why I did the relief valve mod was because my oil filter o-ring kept blowing out and it was getting really old. Every since I did that, I haven't had a problem and the oil pressure and its been under control.
Brianawd
Well-known member
Quote:
I had wierd bearings from to high of oil pressure, but the main reason why I did the relief valve mod was because my oil filter o-ring kept blowing out and it was getting really old. Every since I did that, I haven't had a problem and the oil pressure and its been under control.
How high was your oil pressure? I know on my gauge I see a max of 95psi at 8500rpms. But on cold start it pegs the gauge tell the oil warms up. Its funny because every one says 10psi for every 1000rpm. But at work on like a Series 60 or a ISX I see oil pressure around 70-75psi at 2100rpms. I know they are a LOT BIGGER but you would think the oil pressure would be more around 40psi.
I had wierd bearings from to high of oil pressure, but the main reason why I did the relief valve mod was because my oil filter o-ring kept blowing out and it was getting really old. Every since I did that, I haven't had a problem and the oil pressure and its been under control.
How high was your oil pressure? I know on my gauge I see a max of 95psi at 8500rpms. But on cold start it pegs the gauge tell the oil warms up. Its funny because every one says 10psi for every 1000rpm. But at work on like a Series 60 or a ISX I see oil pressure around 70-75psi at 2100rpms. I know they are a LOT BIGGER but you would think the oil pressure would be more around 40psi.
Quoting gvr4ever:
Quoting iceman69510:
Essentially, if you do not have seized front shaft bearings, leaving the front shaft in is good for oil pressure control.
I thought blocking the front oil passage way raised oil pressure.
Yes, blocking the passages off raises oil pressure. If you leave the shaft in, the oil continues to flow around the shaft with the stock restriction and then back to the pan. It doesn't increase the pressure because the stock flow pattern is not disrupted.
Quoting iceman69510:
Essentially, if you do not have seized front shaft bearings, leaving the front shaft in is good for oil pressure control.
I thought blocking the front oil passage way raised oil pressure.
Yes, blocking the passages off raises oil pressure. If you leave the shaft in, the oil continues to flow around the shaft with the stock restriction and then back to the pan. It doesn't increase the pressure because the stock flow pattern is not disrupted.
