1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
Waiting for the numbers. Bet it won't help much. Hoping it doesn't.
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BLUE SMOKE!!!!!!!
- Thread starterKenny_Kline
- Start date
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
So I redid the entire compression test. Operating temp, performed a dry test and a wet test.
Dry Test results:
Cyl#4 75psi
Cyl#3 75psi
Cyl#2 160psi
Cyl#1 175psi
Wet test results: (with cap full of oil)
Cyl#4 90psi
Cyl#3 95psi
Cyl#2 175psi
Cyl#1 205psi
I am getting a white milky residue coming out of the valve cover vent tube. Def oil in the mix but its white and runny.
Still think only a head gasket or is it possible I have ring damage? I am getting a 15-25psi increase with oil
Dry Test results:
Cyl#4 75psi
Cyl#3 75psi
Cyl#2 160psi
Cyl#1 175psi
Wet test results: (with cap full of oil)
Cyl#4 90psi
Cyl#3 95psi
Cyl#2 175psi
Cyl#1 205psi
I am getting a white milky residue coming out of the valve cover vent tube. Def oil in the mix but its white and runny.
Still think only a head gasket or is it possible I have ring damage? I am getting a 15-25psi increase with oil
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
I am going to hold of from removing the head. I talked to the machine shop today and he thinks my rings are gas washed because of a possibly leaky injector (fuel press drops to 0 when I shut car off). Personally, I think its an isolated incident with the head gasket. Of course thats what I think because thats what I want it to be. Correct me if I am wrong but if these passages started leaking on the head gasket then wouldnt that cause high crank case pressure?
[/
I am NOT going to do a leak down test. What I am going to do is do a reverse leak down test on the crank case system. I am going to put 100psi to the valve cover vent tube, block of the PCV valve, and see if air comes out from the cylinders. If it doesnt, then its not my rings. If it does, then its my rings.
Would this method work the way I wanted it to?
I have 207.3 miles on this motor, I just checked the odometer.
I am NOT going to do a leak down test. What I am going to do is do a reverse leak down test on the crank case system. I am going to put 100psi to the valve cover vent tube, block of the PCV valve, and see if air comes out from the cylinders. If it doesnt, then its not my rings. If it does, then its my rings.
Would this method work the way I wanted it to?
I have 207.3 miles on this motor, I just checked the odometer.
jepherz
Staff member
That sounds like a bad idea. What about all of the other points for leaking then? Your turbo oil drain, your valve cover gasket, etc. Why are you opposed to a regular leak down? It will tell you all the same only your cylinders are meant to hold that pressure.
Just because your fuel pressure doesn't hold after you shut the car off doesn't mean you have an injector leaking. Myself and many others have stated that aftermarket pumps/afprs have this problem.
Just because your fuel pressure doesn't hold after you shut the car off doesn't mean you have an injector leaking. Myself and many others have stated that aftermarket pumps/afprs have this problem.
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
A regular leak down test will do NOTHING for me. If I do a leak down test from the top, it will put pressure on the rings AND the head gasket. If the head gasket is suspect and compression is leaking into the oil return port then I will get high crank case pressure.
I think I am only going to find out by pulling the head and looking at gasket to see traces of a leak.
I think I am only going to find out by pulling the head and looking at gasket to see traces of a leak.
Brianawd
Well-known member
Quote:
A regular leak down test will do NOTHING for me. If I do a leak down test from the top, it will put pressure on the rings AND the head gasket. If the head gasket is suspect and compression is leaking into the oil return port then I will get high crank case pressure.
Please tell me your f***ing joking. If you put 100psi into your crankcase all your going to do is blow out seals. Funny how every Shop in the world will do a leak down test to find the problem weather it be head gasket,bad rings, bad valves. But for some reason it will not work for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
A regular leak down test will do NOTHING for me. If I do a leak down test from the top, it will put pressure on the rings AND the head gasket. If the head gasket is suspect and compression is leaking into the oil return port then I will get high crank case pressure.
Please tell me your f***ing joking. If you put 100psi into your crankcase all your going to do is blow out seals. Funny how every Shop in the world will do a leak down test to find the problem weather it be head gasket,bad rings, bad valves. But for some reason it will not work for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
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Lonewolf64
Well-known member
Kenny always posts for advice, only to completely disregard it. I think we should use reverse psychology on him if we want to help...its like a game!
So Kenny don't do a leak down test!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
So Kenny don't do a leak down test!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
turbowop
Well-known member
Kenny thought a leakdown test will show bad valve seals and now he thinks shooting 100psi into the crankcase is going to show him the problem now? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowrofl.gif
Like Brian said, say goodbye to all the seals in the motor if you do that.
Kenny, maybe it is time to part out and crush the car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Like Brian said, say goodbye to all the seals in the motor if you do that.
Kenny, maybe it is time to part out and crush the car. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
Last edited:
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
I never said a leakdown test would show bad valve seals.
I am taking everyone advice but some things dont ad up to what everyone is saying. A leakdown test wont give me an answer. I already know a leak down test is going to show a leak into the crankcase. I dont need do to the test to know that. But a leak down test wont tell me if its getting past the ring OR getting out these passages:
So my idea to do a reverse leak down test might not of been the smartest idea and I wasnt sure which is why I asked before I did it and you guys sit here and laugh? I think its f***ing hilarious that I am willing to test everything and get very minimal tech info but when I make a suggestion which at the time, didnt seem stupid until I thought about it, I get a record seting response from people laughing at me? Seriously? Very interesting!
I am taking everyone advice but some things dont ad up to what everyone is saying. A leakdown test wont give me an answer. I already know a leak down test is going to show a leak into the crankcase. I dont need do to the test to know that. But a leak down test wont tell me if its getting past the ring OR getting out these passages:
So my idea to do a reverse leak down test might not of been the smartest idea and I wasnt sure which is why I asked before I did it and you guys sit here and laugh? I think its f***ing hilarious that I am willing to test everything and get very minimal tech info but when I make a suggestion which at the time, didnt seem stupid until I thought about it, I get a record seting response from people laughing at me? Seriously? Very interesting!
turbowop
Well-known member
Quote:
I never said a leakdown test would show bad valve seals.
Quote:
I think the only real answer to this is to pull the valve cover and do a leak down test. If it starts coming out from the valve seals, there is my answer.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ORLY.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsdunno.gif
I never said a leakdown test would show bad valve seals.
Quote:
I think the only real answer to this is to pull the valve cover and do a leak down test. If it starts coming out from the valve seals, there is my answer.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ORLY.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsdunno.gif
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
Eh, I guess I did. Wow that was dumb. That was an uneducated stupid reply I made and after spending the past 2 days searching and reading, I have educated myself on how and what a leak down test exactly does.
Still doesnt change the anything about the point I made.
The decision has been made to sell all GVR4 specific parts, keeping motor and going through it, and putting in a 1G or 2G shell. This thread is over unless you wanna talk football or something
Still doesnt change the anything about the point I made.
The decision has been made to sell all GVR4 specific parts, keeping motor and going through it, and putting in a 1G or 2G shell. This thread is over unless you wanna talk football or something
turbowop
Well-known member
Well, the Seahawks did win, so that's good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
Im just glad to see the Bears fail. SEASON OVER!
Im a pats fan...
Im a pats fan...
1990ggsxnj
Well-known member
Quoting Kenny_Kline:
The decision has been made to sell all GVR4 specific parts, keeping motor and going through it, and putting in a 1G or 2G shell. This thread is over unless you wanna talk football or something
Why? What happened had nothing to do with it being a GVR4. Unless you want something that looks nicer or weighs less.
The decision has been made to sell all GVR4 specific parts, keeping motor and going through it, and putting in a 1G or 2G shell. This thread is over unless you wanna talk football or something
Why? What happened had nothing to do with it being a GVR4. Unless you want something that looks nicer or weighs less.
Terry Posten
Well-known member
Milky white in the oil, or top of the VC and coming out of the vent tube is ALWAYS water in the oil.
Now, here is the bad news. Water in the oil, while running the motor can cause major bearing damage.
Do a pressure test and watch for air bubbles in the radiator.
I would bet that the head never got torqued down correctly. Maybe the correct lube was not used on the threads and BOTH sides of the washer causing a friction issue fooling the torque wrench. Or maybe the head studs were never re-torqued after a heat cycle.
Good luck.
Now, here is the bad news. Water in the oil, while running the motor can cause major bearing damage.
Do a pressure test and watch for air bubbles in the radiator.
I would bet that the head never got torqued down correctly. Maybe the correct lube was not used on the threads and BOTH sides of the washer causing a friction issue fooling the torque wrench. Or maybe the head studs were never re-torqued after a heat cycle.
Good luck.
Terry Posten
Well-known member
There is another possiblity. Check the head surface and block deck for trueness. You may have bad machine work.
Rausch
Well-known member
Quoting Kenny_Kline:
So I redid the entire compression test. Operating temp, performed a dry test and a wet test.
Dry Test results:
Cyl#4 75psi
Cyl#3 75psi
Cyl#2 160psi
Cyl#1 175psi
Wet test results: (with cap full of oil)
Cyl#4 90psi
Cyl#3 95psi
Cyl#2 175psi
Cyl#1 205psi
I am getting a white milky residue coming out of the valve cover vent tube. Def oil in the mix but its white and runny.
Still think only a head gasket or is it possible I have ring damage? I am getting a 15-25psi increase with oil
You have a leak between these two cylinders. That part is guaranteed a head gasket breach. The question now becomes why. Machining? Assembly? Bad gasket? Other?
Most likely you sort that out and you'll see things start to improve. You very well may have another issue as a result, but That is issue #1, and should definitely clue you in to what else is happening. They PCV and vent running into each other with no actual outlet doesn't help either. You may find the head gasket open to an oil passage as well, but you need to pull that thing first to find out.
So I redid the entire compression test. Operating temp, performed a dry test and a wet test.
Dry Test results:
Cyl#4 75psi
Cyl#3 75psi
Cyl#2 160psi
Cyl#1 175psi
Wet test results: (with cap full of oil)
Cyl#4 90psi
Cyl#3 95psi
Cyl#2 175psi
Cyl#1 205psi
I am getting a white milky residue coming out of the valve cover vent tube. Def oil in the mix but its white and runny.
Still think only a head gasket or is it possible I have ring damage? I am getting a 15-25psi increase with oil
You have a leak between these two cylinders. That part is guaranteed a head gasket breach. The question now becomes why. Machining? Assembly? Bad gasket? Other?
Most likely you sort that out and you'll see things start to improve. You very well may have another issue as a result, but That is issue #1, and should definitely clue you in to what else is happening. They PCV and vent running into each other with no actual outlet doesn't help either. You may find the head gasket open to an oil passage as well, but you need to pull that thing first to find out.
prove_it
Well-known member
Ok Kenny,
I am a certified auto tech who has been working on every make and model car for about 10 years now. I have worked in two different performance shops and managed a shop for about two years. I am saving and working on starting my own performance shop. There is my creditably. Now this is my opinion and opinion only. Here it goes:
Kenny, sell ALL your tools. Every single one. You have NO idea how to repair a car. NONE. Everything you are ranting about is wrong. ALL wrong. If you do anything you say you are going to do, your only going to make everything worse. What makes me more upset is that your going to say it's the machine shop's fault or that it's a Mitsubishi so it's crap. Blah Blah Blah. It can't be your fault it's all breaking down, no way, it's gotta be something else.
I love kids like you. You make me rich. You try to "fix" your own car all the time, but yet it never works. After about two weeks you'll give up and bring it to a technician like myself and I get to fix it right and get rich off of you.
Face it Kenny, your out of your league. This is too much for you. Your going to end up spending way too much time and money and not get anywhere. You'll just have another problem next week, then you'll be crying about that. Then you'll post all about it and your half assed ways of figuring it out. Then we will all try to help you, and you'll reject the opinions of master technicians, and hobbyists on this site that have been doing this for decades and know more than you can imagine.
But no matter what you think your right. Always do buddy. Either take some advice or shut up.
Everyone on this board who is reading this thread knows what happened to your car. We are trying to tell you, yet all you can do is say "no your wrong" just like a four year old child. Grow up. Take some advice.
Here's what happened: YOU looped your breather lines. First mistake. That created more pressure than your seals and case can handle.
Second, YOU saw a problem, yet continued to run the car for twenty minutes thinking it will go away.... it never does.
Third, you kept trying to run the car. You didn't quit. Like some miracle would fix your car.
SO what happened? When you looped the breathers you built pressure in the crankcase, this pushed oil up your drain pipe from the turbo which blew out the turbo seals and caused the smoke. Once this happened you starved the oil pump of oil for a second which starved the rings of oil. Since you have a new engine and I'm sure you didn't seat the rings properly, the rings then wore out and caused your low compression and more smoke. That's why when you did the wet test your compression jumped up. There you go!
You ruined your rings, you ruined your cylinder walls, you ruined your turbo seals, you blew your engine.
NOT because it's a crappy Mitsubishi, or a crappy machine shop. It's cause your an idiot who looped your breather lines thinking your are an awesome tuner just like in the movies.
My rant is over.
Take your car to a professional and make him(or her) rich.
Goodnight.
I am a certified auto tech who has been working on every make and model car for about 10 years now. I have worked in two different performance shops and managed a shop for about two years. I am saving and working on starting my own performance shop. There is my creditably. Now this is my opinion and opinion only. Here it goes:
Kenny, sell ALL your tools. Every single one. You have NO idea how to repair a car. NONE. Everything you are ranting about is wrong. ALL wrong. If you do anything you say you are going to do, your only going to make everything worse. What makes me more upset is that your going to say it's the machine shop's fault or that it's a Mitsubishi so it's crap. Blah Blah Blah. It can't be your fault it's all breaking down, no way, it's gotta be something else.
I love kids like you. You make me rich. You try to "fix" your own car all the time, but yet it never works. After about two weeks you'll give up and bring it to a technician like myself and I get to fix it right and get rich off of you.
Face it Kenny, your out of your league. This is too much for you. Your going to end up spending way too much time and money and not get anywhere. You'll just have another problem next week, then you'll be crying about that. Then you'll post all about it and your half assed ways of figuring it out. Then we will all try to help you, and you'll reject the opinions of master technicians, and hobbyists on this site that have been doing this for decades and know more than you can imagine.
But no matter what you think your right. Always do buddy. Either take some advice or shut up.
Everyone on this board who is reading this thread knows what happened to your car. We are trying to tell you, yet all you can do is say "no your wrong" just like a four year old child. Grow up. Take some advice.
Here's what happened: YOU looped your breather lines. First mistake. That created more pressure than your seals and case can handle.
Second, YOU saw a problem, yet continued to run the car for twenty minutes thinking it will go away.... it never does.
Third, you kept trying to run the car. You didn't quit. Like some miracle would fix your car.
SO what happened? When you looped the breathers you built pressure in the crankcase, this pushed oil up your drain pipe from the turbo which blew out the turbo seals and caused the smoke. Once this happened you starved the oil pump of oil for a second which starved the rings of oil. Since you have a new engine and I'm sure you didn't seat the rings properly, the rings then wore out and caused your low compression and more smoke. That's why when you did the wet test your compression jumped up. There you go!
You ruined your rings, you ruined your cylinder walls, you ruined your turbo seals, you blew your engine.
NOT because it's a crappy Mitsubishi, or a crappy machine shop. It's cause your an idiot who looped your breather lines thinking your are an awesome tuner just like in the movies.
My rant is over.
Take your car to a professional and make him(or her) rich.
Goodnight.
Kenny_Kline
Well-known member
You live and you learn, thats it. I dont know everything. If I did, I wouldnt be here. I am not selling all my tools and I am not blaiming any work on the machine shop as they didnt do the work to begin with. I will tell you now and you will agree with me that a leak down test will do nothing to help my cause!!!! I know its going to leak into the crankcase... you know it, I know it, the pope knows it. SO why even bother? I have made the decision to pull the motor and rip it down to inspect everything to make sure its still in spec. If everything checks out, I will put in new rings, a new headgasket, and whatever else I think needs to be replaced at the time depending on what is damaged. I didnt know looping the lines for 20 seconds would cause this damage. And I was advised by everyone INCLUDING YOURSELF to do a compression test and you being an all mighty master tech should know car has to be at operating temp to perform such a test which requires me to run the car for a while. Not because I wanted the issue to go away or wanted a miracle to come down and bless my car... but because I was doing what "the professionals" such as yourself, told me to do. I dont half ass anything. I replaced every single part in this motor brand new OEM! If something went wrong during assembly or break in, thats different. I do what I do with the best of what I know and ask questions along my way. If you would like, I can just post 400 stupid questions a day, do no diagnosing, and expect the internet to fix my car. Does that work for you? And if everyone on this forum INCLUDING yourself knows what happened to my car then why didnt you state it from the get???
and I qoute "SO what happened? When you looped the breathers you built pressure in the crankcase, this pushed oil up your drain pipe from the turbo which blew out the turbo seals and caused the smoke. Once this happened you starved the oil pump of oil for a second which starved the rings of oil. Since you have a new engine and I'm sure you didn't seat the rings properly, the rings then wore out and caused your low compression and more smoke. That's why when you did the wet test your compression jumped up. There you go!"
That is the first time I have read an explanation on what happened and you know what, it all makes sense. As for the other small petty name calling, sterotyping BS you said, real classy. Maybe one day, we will meet in person and we can pick up this conversation then. Until then, dont sit here and critisize me and talk down to me over the internet. Save it for in person. Or you can call me and have this conversation on the phone 508-367-5023. Dont type on the keyboard like your my superior or that your better than me... thats pathetic!
and I qoute "SO what happened? When you looped the breathers you built pressure in the crankcase, this pushed oil up your drain pipe from the turbo which blew out the turbo seals and caused the smoke. Once this happened you starved the oil pump of oil for a second which starved the rings of oil. Since you have a new engine and I'm sure you didn't seat the rings properly, the rings then wore out and caused your low compression and more smoke. That's why when you did the wet test your compression jumped up. There you go!"
That is the first time I have read an explanation on what happened and you know what, it all makes sense. As for the other small petty name calling, sterotyping BS you said, real classy. Maybe one day, we will meet in person and we can pick up this conversation then. Until then, dont sit here and critisize me and talk down to me over the internet. Save it for in person. Or you can call me and have this conversation on the phone 508-367-5023. Dont type on the keyboard like your my superior or that your better than me... thats pathetic!
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turbowop
Well-known member
Kenny, you can run a compression test with the motor cold to see if the difference in numbers between cylinders is decent enough to rule out a headgasket. You get higher compression numbers when the motor is at operating temperature, but it would have worked for this purpose. Also, a leakdown test may not have just pumped air into the crankcase. It's possible that it would leak between cylinders instead, which would make the headgasket an obvious problem.
