Best place to buy porting bits?

[mean_green]

Where have you guys found the best place to buy porting bits? (Quality/Price) Should I just go hit up my local NAPA or Carquest? Anything special I should know about buying them other than Carbide?

T.I.A
-Alan

 

[Olson]

harbor and fright.
I find alot of things in the city if you go to stores and start asking questions.
Ive found that i dont have to go on line to buy SS lines theres a place here that can make things to spec for me.
Go to a store and ask questions

 

[mean_green]

I went to my local harbor freight and they didnt have any porting bits. There were a few racks with nothing on them some maybe they didnt have any in stock /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

-Alan

 

[Barnes]

IMO: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=01400910

This is a specific example, one I bought actually.

It is freaking awesome. Expensive, but it is super sharp, and ports extremely well.

The make those bits in all shapes and sizes as well.

 

[324vr4]

^^^ Second that...they have GREAT quality...you get what you pay for...

 

[toybreaker]

Msc is good.

Check the yellow pages there may be a store in your city.

Make sure you get some safety glasses as well!

 

[ktmrider]

Quoting mean_green:
I went to my local harbor freight and they didnt have any porting bits. There were a few racks with nothing on them some maybe they didnt have any in stock /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

-Alan

I bought some at the local HF. They keep them locked up behind the counter with things like torque wrenches and the like.
Now for quality they are so-so, maybe good for one job but for sure are less expensive if you don't plan to do more than one engine.

 

[curtis]

These are like buying performance parts spend the money and go to a big company like Travers tool company, Mcmaster carr, granger ,the eastwood company etc. Usually price is in the 40 to 60 dollar range locally. The differance in price is worth it because nothing worst that standing an extra 2 hours because of a cutter that instantly wears out.
Aluminum burrs are usually 6 or 8 flutes and steel are the ones that look like files. Transmission fuild keeps the burrs from loading up with metal or you can buy some stuff called grinders grease, Kind of like candle wax, that works also.

I have also found over the years when they get dull you can chuck them up in a drill and spin them in reverse and sharpen then with a flat knife diamond hone. Works ok if you haven't already wore them down.

eastwood

 

[Barnes]

The bit I link is super nice. I'm able to port, port, and keep porting with no clogging completely dry. It rules. I think a lot of that has to do with the double-cut style.

 

SGS or nothing for me. if youre cutting aluminum get single cut. i also make sure to only use the ones with a 6" shank.

 

[Barnes]

+1 on the 6" shank. I have the 1" shank, or whatever it is, it is too short for a lot of work.

 

[stealthtt24]

click

 

[Brianawd]

Snap-on

 

[cOmpressor]

Snap-off..... the snapper?

 

[CP]

I like a 3" length. As mentioned, the short ones can't reach many places, and I've found the 6" ones are too hard to control and they jump around. Also keep it away from aluminum, as it clogs the cutting surfaces and renders the bit useless. Go to Home Depot and buy a clear full face shield for $5 if you value your eyesight.