Battery to trunk wiring...did I mess something up?

[JSchleim18]

Was working on my car last night trying to figure out how to relocate the battery to the trunk with a 4 post cutoff switch. I ran the wires up to the front of the car and since I deleted ABS, I was going to get rid of my fusible link box (4 fuses in it - 2 abs, one alternator, one manual seat belts). I now have those wires hanging out and I cannot figure out what to do with them.

I was planning to run the 2 white wires that were connected to the alternator fuse and run that the a 120A circuit breaker. Then I wanted to run the manual seat belt wire to an empty fuse location on the fuse box.

Does this even sound right /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I seriously need help. I think I may have just overcomplicated things.

 

[jepherz]

I think so too. I'm certainly confused. So you're trying to run the 'output' of those old fuses elsewhere? So what's the problem?

 

[Polish]

Where do you want to mount said cutoff switch?

Do you want it fused?

How big of a cable did you buy to go from front to rear?

Do you have a battery box?

Do you have a good ground cable?

The way I've done it before is just to take my 2awg wire(I think thats what I ran) and crimp a connector on one end with a single hole in it. Then bolt that directly to the wires which already had that style connector on the end that I removed from the battery post with a small nut/bolt. I then wrapped it in tape, then loomed it, then wrapped the loom in tape. Then just zip tie it down and out of the way and ran it from the front to the rear just like an amp wire. Then I put a fuse at the battery in the back. Then make sure you ground the battery well. You can add a fuse block at the rear too which will have outputs for stuff like the fuel pump or an amp or a power wire for a meth pump...

Note ^ I did not have a cutoff switch. You could add one easily in the rear but I did not have one.

 

[TylerAdamson]

I would just get a distribution block and mount it on the firewall somewhere. They are reasonably priced and makes the install look a lot cleaner. Then run the 2/0/00 or whatever gauge wire you're using into a breaker/fuse then to the battery.

 

[JSchleim18]

The way I was planning to run it was kcpaz's way (IE Battery relocation the legal way) but his thread got deleted which pretty much sucks.

I have a Taylor 4 post kill switch. The bigger posts were for the battery (1 gauge). One post had a circuit breaker (200amp) then ran all the way up the vehicle to the engine bay. Then the other big post would run to the positive side of the battery in a properly sealed battery box.

The smaller posts would run the alternator (4 gauge). One post one run all the way up to the front of the vehicle with a 120amp circuit breaker.

My confusion is what goes to what as far as under the hood battery relocation. I have 2 white wires that share the same terminal. It looks to have powered the alternator using the 100amp fuse in the main fusible link. I have another white wire that I believe runs the auto seat belts. There's a blue wire and a red wire that runs the ABS which I have deleted. The last wire is a white wire with a black stripe that I wanna say was powered with the 100 amp fuse and powers the secondary fuse box (the one with most of the accessories).

I think the 2 white wires on one terminal and the white/blk striped wire should all be connected to the 120 amp circuit breaker?

Then I was going to take the single white wire and stick it in the ECS fuse location on the secondary fuse box?

Blue and red wires are negated.

Thennn I have a red/blk wire that runs to the starter.

What do I have to run inline with the 1 gauge battery wiring?

What do I have to run inline with the 4 gauge alternator wiring?

I hope this makes some sense to someone but it's late for me and I'll post up more thoughts once I look over the wiring diagram again tomorrow

All help is appreciated.

 

[turbowop]

If somebody else doesn't jump in on this, I'll try to help out tomorrow with some pics.

But for the time being...

The two white wires are the alternator's output. Those need to be extended back to the kill switch before they connect with the battery. The spot on the little fuse block that they previously terminated at get's looped back to the starter wire to complete the circuit. This is how it's wired on my car and has worked perfectly for seven years now. Kind of hard to explain in words. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow if I get a chance.

 

[JSchleim18]

Yeah please pictures would be great!

I need to go to electrical school /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[JSchleim18]

OK I have most of it figured out. I am going to get a power distribution block (4 way). main feed is for the battery cable to the trunk and the 3 others are: Starter wire (BLK/RED), White wire that powers the sub fusible link with the MFI Relay, etc., and the white/black wire that feeds the sub fusible link for the Power windows/defogger, etc.

Now my question is what's goin to happen with the auto seatbelts since I am deleting it from the main fusible link? It seems to be wired in a 60A fuse on the sub fusible link with a white/red wire.

 

[JSchleim18]

Bumperoo...what happens if I pull the 30A fuse out of the main fusible link box for the auto seatbelts?

It seems like they're powered from the 60A in the secondary as well.

Will I lose function of them when I open the door to my car with no key in the IGN?

 

My battery is relocated to the trunk by the prev owner and I would like to double check all his work, he had a horrible, horrible ground connection.